Rear suspension advice
07-31-2013, 08:52 AM
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Rear suspension advice Looking for some advice on how to make my f-body ride decent while improving performance. Currently the car has a non-adj Jegster TA, upgraded sway bars and Bilstein rears. I believe my LCA's need new bushings since I hear rattles over bumps and the car has 100k miles. I was given non-adj dual roto LCA's and a double adj panhard bar with the car. I'm wondering how much I will be giving up in ride comfort over where I'm at now if I install these parts. What setup should I go with if not? The car is a DD and comfort is the most important to me right now.
08-01-2013, 10:02 AM
#6
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Looking for some advice on how to make my f-body ride decent while improving performance. Currently the car has a non-adj Jegster TA, upgraded sway bars and Bilstein rears. I believe my LCA's need new bushings since I hear rattles over bumps and the car has 100k miles. I was given non-adj dual roto LCA's and a double adj panhard bar with the car. I'm wondering how much I will be giving up in ride comfort over where I'm at now if I install these parts. What setup should I go with if not? The car is a DD and comfort is the most important to me right now.
08-01-2013, 01:22 PM
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I'd stay away from poly bushings in the LCAs for DDs. I ran them for a while on my `99 TA DD and hated the bump oversteer condition that I introduced at highway speeds. Those LCAs need to articulate and they will with rubber. I pressed in some Moog rubber bushings in my stockers and put them back on.
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08-02-2013, 08:59 AM
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Best way to set the panhard is begin by setting the adjustable unit equal to the stock unit, install the bar and the drop line down from a body line on both sides(my car is mini-tubbed, so I go to the top of the wheel opening) and then use a straight edge across the tire. Measure the "offset" on both sides then adjust accordingly to get the measurements equal.
08-03-2013, 12:21 AM
#11
this is amusing to me LOL!!!
I'm amused as to why no one has asked about his Bilstein rear shocks.
Are they over 100K miles as well?
if they're over 50K miles old AND you have lowered springs then your shocks are fucked too.
Even if you have factory springs (which would surprise me), the shocks would wear out after about 50K miles UNLESS you have Koni's.
If you have lowered aftermarket springs, the Bilstein's weren't designed for lowered springs so after a few thousand miles they will blow.
I'm amused as to why no one has asked about his Bilstein rear shocks.
Are they over 100K miles as well?
if they're over 50K miles old AND you have lowered springs then your shocks are fucked too.
Even if you have factory springs (which would surprise me), the shocks would wear out after about 50K miles UNLESS you have Koni's.
If you have lowered aftermarket springs, the Bilstein's weren't designed for lowered springs so after a few thousand miles they will blow.
08-03-2013, 03:35 PM
#13
this is amusing to me LOL!!!
I'm amused as to why no one has asked about his Bilstein rear shocks.
Are they over 100K miles as well?
if they're over 50K miles old AND you have lowered springs then your shocks are fucked too.
Even if you have factory springs (which would surprise me), the shocks would wear out after about 50K miles UNLESS you have Koni's.
If you have lowered aftermarket springs, the Bilstein's weren't designed for lowered springs so after a few thousand miles they will blow.
I'm amused as to why no one has asked about his Bilstein rear shocks.
Are they over 100K miles as well?
if they're over 50K miles old AND you have lowered springs then your shocks are fucked too.
Even if you have factory springs (which would surprise me), the shocks would wear out after about 50K miles UNLESS you have Koni's.
If you have lowered aftermarket springs, the Bilstein's weren't designed for lowered springs so after a few thousand miles they will blow.
08-03-2013, 04:52 PM
#14
Bilstein shock valving isn't ideal for lowering spring, but they're not going to "blow"(wear-out) in a few thousand miles unless they're physically damaged. I've ran Bilsteins on my car for probably 30k with lowering springs and I didn't notice any loss of control from them. With stock springs as long as your road conditions don't accelerate rusting on you car I don't see any reason why a set of Bilsteins won't last 70k.
Bilstein HD's were designed for factory springs only, unless you had the opportunity to get "revalved" ones designed for your aftermarket springs.
Bilstein never did those, only sam strano did, and he stopped doing them.
in a 4th-gen f-body with aftermarket lowered springs, if you're using Bilstein HD's with those aftermarket springs, in about as low as 25K miles, the Bilstein's will be done.
You wouldn't know that they went cuz you're driving the vehicle, the ride quality will deteriorate but you won't notice because it will happen slowly and you won't realize any major issues until the shocks are beyond gone.
you don't have to believe me but bottomline Bilstein HD's were not meant for lowered springs.
People used them for lowered springs because well, someone on the internet said it was fine and everyone followed their advice.
Bilstein's on 4th-gens with lowered springs is a compromise.
Definitely better than the factory POS deCarbons though but the Bilstein's do blow after a while, definitely by 50k miles, as soon as 25K miles IF you have them on lowered springs.
OP has factory springs so this point is moot.
08-03-2013, 06:53 PM
#15
I'm quite aware that regular off the shelf bilsteins aren't valved for the higher spring rates of lowering springs, but they still do work surprisingly well(NOT perfect) with lowering springs; that's a fact. Now don't get me wrong, but I'd always recommend Koni SA shocks over the bilsteins every time, if a persons budget permits.
02-15-2015, 03:49 PM
#17
Series: B8 (SP)
That's their rear "sport" shocks for a 3rd gen(82-92) Camaro/Firebirds, which can be used also on 93-02 Camaro/Firebirds. It is a shorter shock, but that doesn't really matter since you won't bottom-out the Series: B6 (HD), Part Number: 24-024075 which is what's listed for a 1993-2002 C/F , even when the rear bump stops are compressed. The valving might be slightly different, but I can't confirm it.
http://cart.bilsteinus.com/search/mm...drivetype=RWD#
