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So I've started on it today but the MC2 line is 1/4" and the rest of the lines are 3/16" The wilwood valve I have is all 3/16" inverted flare ports.
I'm wondering if I can just cut and flare the 1/4" line and install it to a 1/4" to 3/16" adapter and screw the adapter into the wilwood valve? Seems like I need this flare to be safe.
So I'm wondering do I need to cut the 1/4" line in half (or something) and install a 1/4" to 3/16" union and then get some 3/16" brake line and flare it and install it into the union and the valve.
I think I just talked myself into doing it that way as I was typing...
Also, from looking at the OP pics and other line lock mods I think the larger 1/4" (MC2) line goes to the front or FI. So my labels are reversed.
So I've started on it today but the MC2 line is 1/4" and the rest of the lines are 3/16" The wilwood valve I have is all 3/16" inverted flare ports.
I'm wondering if I can just cut and flare the 1/4" line and install it to a 1/4" to 3/16" adapter and screw the adapter into the wilwood valve? Seems like I need this flare to be safe.
So I'm wondering do I need to cut the 1/4" line in half (or something) and install a 1/4" to 3/16" union and then get some 3/16" brake line and flare it and install it into the union and the valve.
I think I just talked myself into doing it that way as I was typing...
Also, from looking at the OP pics and other line lock mods I think the larger 1/4" (MC2) line goes to the front or FI. So my labels are reversed
subscribed to this. wish i could help out but i'm not sure either. hope you can figure it out or someone else can chime in who knows. i'll be doing this soon also
I wanted to give a final update on my ABS delete project.
Wilwood brake bias valve is all setup and bled. Works amazing!!! Car stops on a dime now.
I removed the ABS control unit from the aluminum block and left it attached to the wire harness for now so I don't have a service vehicle light. I still get the "brake" light...gonna see if I can't get that to go away next. (my plan is to reinstall the abs motor connector and if that makes it go away I'll try using a resistor of the same resistance I see from the motor to trick it into thinking it is installed)
Only pain was the larger, MC2, brake line (I believe it was 6mm) it kept pushing through when I was trying to double flare the line. Had to take it to a brake shop to have them flare it and I put it into that brass adapter to go from 6mm down to the 3/16 that the wilwood accepts. The adapter is technically a 1/4 to 3/16 but the difference between 1/4 in and 6 mm is less than .02 of an inch or about 1/64th so shouldn't be an issue. Used 1/4 tube nut on the line and haven't seen any leaks and I've put almost 1000 miles on it and locked up the brakes many times while adjusting the bias.
I'll try to remember to update if I can get the other lights to go out. Gonna try grounding those two wires someone else suggested to ground and see if my abs inop light goes away.
3000 miles still no problems. Love the bias control. Works perfectly and can easily adjust from front tires locking up to rear tires locking up and everything in between. 1/4 turns at a time have a noticeable impact once you get it pretty close. Started out with almost max front pressure and then just turned it down 1 full turn at a time until the rears locked up first then started backing it off 1/4 turn at a time until it felt just right.
Still haven't messed with getting the brake light to not come on once I begin rolling forward.
Digging this up. Have the SJM kit. Been sitting on it for a few months. I've just unplugged my ABS. Car has better brakes since I did it (couldn't bleed the air out with ABS block working). But would love to get the linelock and Wilwood proportioning goodness going.
Wish me luck guys. Preparing for an ABS-less S60 and the Strano-Wilwood 4-Piston front kit in the future.
Those Swagelok fittings are awesome, but pricey. You could save a little by going with brass. Parker makes their imitation line of A-Lok fittings in brass.
Those Swagelok fittings are awesome, but pricey. You could save a little by going with brass. Parker makes their imitation line of A-Lok fittings in brass.
Actually no you couldn't.....Its recommended you match material types when possible, which is why I bought the pricier stainless fittings. At least that was my understanding at the time.
I installed the SJM Kit this last August with the stock brake line. The best of the cheap double flare tools I found was at Harbor Freight. It beat the Craftsman and by no surprise the Dorman kit.
I placed my order by telephone with Steve at SJM Manufacturing. He was very helpful with advice and very pleasant to deal with. Thanks Steve! http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/index.html
Mine are still doing good. You'll need new ferrule inserts if you plan to change the connection, they cant be removed/altered. If its a simple disconnect and reconnect, no leaks for me when i tried it.
2 of us running F Body stock LS1's spun a connecting rod main bearing during the 3rd session at the COTA track day. Apparently there was oil starvation during the long the high G sweeping turns. I am told these cars should run an extra quart of oil during track days. If only I knew that in advance. Oh well. 383 stroker rotating ***'y on order.
Just an FYI, not trying to say do or don't. The problem with the nut and ferral type fittings isn't the fitting. It's the fact that brake lines are seamed. The seam can crack when vibration combines with the pinch of the fitting. I just thought I'd throw that out there so you can check those here and there.
Just an FYI, not trying to say do or don't. The problem with the nut and ferral type fittings isn't the fitting. It's the fact that brake lines are seamed. The seam can crack when vibration combines with the pinch of the fitting. I just thought I'd throw that out there so you can check those here and there.
You are correct IMO. The ferrule is not gonna let go of the tubing, Ive seen this personally. But stressing the seam in a way it wasnt designed "could" lead to a weak spot. My thinking is this though, with a double flare, the seam doesnt split, and on the fittings Ive examined, the seam didnt split. Doesnt change the fact that the seam, by design, IS always gonna be the weakest link.
[QUOTE=ls2 bait;19845481]Damn I just had a local machine shop fab me up an aluminum distribution block and plugged the stock lines in. Took half an hr.
It’s been a while. I originally bought the SJM delete kit and decided I didn’t like it after I opened the package. Just happened to be talking to a guy at my buddies shop a couple weeks later who was making a miniature scale engine and asked him if he could fan something up. So I gave him my abs block to get the fitting angles/ threads/ depths etc and he whipped it up for me. Haven’t talked to him since. But it was half the price of the SJM kit.
06-03-2015, 10:09 PM
