Fay's 2 Watts Link
10-31-2013, 12:09 AM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Inland Empire, Ca
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fay's 2 Watts Link Ive been reading threads about the watts link and was wondering if its possible to be able to re center the rear-end with the watts link on?
Currently I have the adjustable panhard bar, its centering my rear-end but I sure would like to use the watts link for better handling with the benefit of being able to center the rear-end under the car.
Currently I have the adjustable panhard bar, its centering my rear-end but I sure would like to use the watts link for better handling with the benefit of being able to center the rear-end under the car.
Last edited by jpn8801; 10-31-2013 at 12:21 AM.
10-31-2013, 12:57 AM
#2
Well installing a watts link is going to require removing the panhard bar, but the rear end isn't just going to not be centered because you remove the panhard bar. The watts link will need to be setup properly under the car, rearend centered before bolting on all the new parts. If I understand correctly what you're say, the watts link will keep the rear centered just like a panhard bar would do.
10-31-2013, 05:07 AM
#3
You don't use the watt's link to re-center the rear, you re-center the rear by measuring the fender relative to the axle and do some pushing of the axle until you get it centered right. Disconnecting the swaybar will allow you to get it trued up as best as possible. Once centered, you lock in the watt's link to be as even as possible albeit at opposite angles. A diagram on the install page will show you possible correct setups. The rear will remain centered relative to the body with a watt's link rather than the panhard's triangulated design where the body center changes as the body squats.
10-31-2013, 12:25 PM
#4
Yes, you can shift the axle under the car.... 
It involves loosening an axle clamp, but it's doable. And honestly not that common to need to fret over, notice you don't see a lot of people talking about it? That's because the axle tends to want to sit pretty square under there to start with, and it's the way the PHB works that forces it to the side.
It involves loosening an axle clamp, but it's doable. And honestly not that common to need to fret over, notice you don't see a lot of people talking about it? That's because the axle tends to want to sit pretty square under there to start with, and it's the way the PHB works that forces it to the side.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
10-31-2013, 09:02 PM
#5
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Inland Empire, Ca
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Maybe i'm not understanding here.... My problem is that If I do not use my adjustable PHB on my vehicle, the rear-end of my car will not be centered underneath my car, the tire on the drivers side sticks out further than the one on the passengers side. This is why I purchased the adjustable PHB in the first place, to center the rear-end under the car.
What I'm worried about is the Watts Link.
It looks like it's mounted in the PHB stock location is it not? If it is, the Watts looks like there is no adjustment to be able to move the rear-end from left to right (Or the tires to be moved before or past the rear fender) so the rear-end under my vehicle (unfortunately) will sit further to the drivers side pushing the tire more to that side, making the rear-end off center.
Is there another way of being able to center the rear-end without using the adjustable PHB? I figure if the watts link does not have that adjustment, I will not be able to take advantage, and will have to stick with the adjustable PHB
What I'm worried about is the Watts Link.
It looks like it's mounted in the PHB stock location is it not? If it is, the Watts looks like there is no adjustment to be able to move the rear-end from left to right (Or the tires to be moved before or past the rear fender) so the rear-end under my vehicle (unfortunately) will sit further to the drivers side pushing the tire more to that side, making the rear-end off center.
Is there another way of being able to center the rear-end without using the adjustable PHB? I figure if the watts link does not have that adjustment, I will not be able to take advantage, and will have to stick with the adjustable PHB
Last edited by jpn8801; 10-31-2013 at 09:39 PM.
10-31-2013, 09:44 PM
#6
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Inland Empire, Ca
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well installing a watts link is going to require removing the panhard bar, but the rear end isn't just going to not be centered because you remove the panhard bar. The watts link will need to be setup properly under the car, rearend centered before bolting on all the new parts. If I understand correctly what you're say, the watts link will keep the rear centered just like a panhard bar would do.
10-31-2013, 10:07 PM
#7
The watts link has two axle clamps that you fix to the rear, so when installing it you manually center the rear and then install the watts link and it keeps your rear centered. You do have to manually center the rear before you install it though.
Trending Topics
10-31-2013, 11:11 PM
#8
If your rear is NOT centered right now, don't worry about it with regards to the Watt's link.
- the nature of the panhard rod is what causes it to be not centered to begin with, remove the panhard and it will center on its own. If off a bit, push the axle in the direction you want to center it.
- lowering the car exaggerates this effect, as the car lowers (or raises) from stock, the panhard rod without adjustment of the length will force the car to shift over the centerline of the axle.
-larger tires make this even more apparent as you can see the tire relative to the fender line
With no stress on the axle relative to the springs, lcas, torque arm, the axle will sit naturally centered relative to the car. IF you are working off jack stands, it's a bit harder, but I've centered my car that way too by simply having someone push on the car side as I clamped down the watt's link. You simply set the watt's link evenly as per instructions and clamp it down on the relatively centered axle to lock it that way.
- the nature of the panhard rod is what causes it to be not centered to begin with, remove the panhard and it will center on its own. If off a bit, push the axle in the direction you want to center it.
- lowering the car exaggerates this effect, as the car lowers (or raises) from stock, the panhard rod without adjustment of the length will force the car to shift over the centerline of the axle.
-larger tires make this even more apparent as you can see the tire relative to the fender line
With no stress on the axle relative to the springs, lcas, torque arm, the axle will sit naturally centered relative to the car. IF you are working off jack stands, it's a bit harder, but I've centered my car that way too by simply having someone push on the car side as I clamped down the watt's link. You simply set the watt's link evenly as per instructions and clamp it down on the relatively centered axle to lock it that way.
