95 Z Autocross LCA's
#1
95 Z Autocross LCA's
Currently running stock shocks/springs, bolt in SFC's, adjustable PHB, rear LCA relocation bracket with stock rear LCA's "boxed/welded".
On the "chassis end" of my driver side rear LCA squeaks like no other when just getting in/out of the car. Freakin annoying
I'm thinking to get rid of the stock crap bushings.
Any opinions on a bushing/bushing end, bushing/heim or heim/heim rear LCA's?
I know any heim will add noise, but these cars are not the quietest and "plush" ride to begin with so I'm OK with added noise for added performance.
UPR Products has a double heim LCA for $200.
On the "chassis end" of my driver side rear LCA squeaks like no other when just getting in/out of the car. Freakin annoying
I'm thinking to get rid of the stock crap bushings.
Any opinions on a bushing/bushing end, bushing/heim or heim/heim rear LCA's?
I know any heim will add noise, but these cars are not the quietest and "plush" ride to begin with so I'm OK with added noise for added performance.
UPR Products has a double heim LCA for $200.
Last edited by smitty2919; 12-04-2013 at 02:49 PM.
#2
TECH Senior Member
Currently running stock shocks/springs, bolt in SFC's, adjustable PHB, rear LCA relocation bracket with stock rear LCA's "boxed/welded".
On the "chassis end" of my driver side rear LCA squeaks like no other when just getting in/out of the car. Freakin annoying
I'm thinking to get rid of the stock crap bushings.
Any opinions on a bushing/bushing end, bushing/heim or heim/heim rear LCA's?
I know any heim will add noise, but these cars are not the quietest and "plush" ride to begin with so I'm OK with added noise for added performance.
UPR Products has a double heim LCA for $200.
On the "chassis end" of my driver side rear LCA squeaks like no other when just getting in/out of the car. Freakin annoying
I'm thinking to get rid of the stock crap bushings.
Any opinions on a bushing/bushing end, bushing/heim or heim/heim rear LCA's?
I know any heim will add noise, but these cars are not the quietest and "plush" ride to begin with so I'm OK with added noise for added performance.
UPR Products has a double heim LCA for $200.
Also do yourself a favor and ditch the relocation brackets while you are at it, you will have better handling without them.
#3
Thanks for the reply.
Easier said than done with getting rid f the relocation brackets...they are bolted and welded on.
The LCA's were on the lowest setting, I JUST got done moving them to the "middle" bolt hole to level out the LCA when the car is at rest.
Easier said than done with getting rid f the relocation brackets...they are bolted and welded on.
The LCA's were on the lowest setting, I JUST got done moving them to the "middle" bolt hole to level out the LCA when the car is at rest.
#5
Stock ride height right now. I would only go maybe 3/4" to 1" lower all around to maintain decent DD ride height for bumps etc.
Thanks for the heads up camarokid. What suspension are you running in your car?
Thanks for the heads up camarokid. What suspension are you running in your car?
#6
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I have Strano's on all 4 corners right now. Cars height on 17" SS wheels (275/40/17) is 26 1/4 on all four corners. I scrap on mild speed bumps with my ORY. My car is more radical as far as alignment goes than most people on here but I daily it a good amount. Nothing really bothers me, and don't forget the roads in New England are terrible.
I daily race seats, roto bushings, and lots of toe out with lots of neg camber. Funny thing is I prefer driving this car more than my Cts-v.
I daily race seats, roto bushings, and lots of toe out with lots of neg camber. Funny thing is I prefer driving this car more than my Cts-v.
#7
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I would maybe try to find a set of stock LCAs and just switch over to the solid rubber bushings. You don't want the boxed LCA acting like the swaybar.. you want free movement of the rear axle. Let your LCAs move freely and adjust your springs/shocks/swaybars to control your suspension.
I think boxing the LCAs is something that people ended up doing just because it does end up stiffening up your rear suspension, but not in the way they realize they want it to. For drag racing it doesn't matter.. the stiffer the rear, the better to keep the car leaving straighter.
I think boxing the LCAs is something that people ended up doing just because it does end up stiffening up your rear suspension, but not in the way they realize they want it to. For drag racing it doesn't matter.. the stiffer the rear, the better to keep the car leaving straighter.
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#8
Judging by the fact the LCA's were put on the lowest setting AND they are boxed, have a feeling the car was intended more for the drag strip.
If I cared to buy new LCA's I would just go with heim joints on both ends and just deal with the added noise.
After looking up the UMI rotor joint, I wouldn't bother with that and the added price of that over a standard heim joint unless they can prove that during typical corners, the roto joint allows for more axle flexibility. They boast it's 100% rebuild able...unscrewing worn out heim join and screwing in a new one is easier and prob cheaper lol.
If I cared to buy new LCA's I would just go with heim joints on both ends and just deal with the added noise.
After looking up the UMI rotor joint, I wouldn't bother with that and the added price of that over a standard heim joint unless they can prove that during typical corners, the roto joint allows for more axle flexibility. They boast it's 100% rebuild able...unscrewing worn out heim join and screwing in a new one is easier and prob cheaper lol.