AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

I have a 12 bolt Moser rear with 33 spline axles , BMR adjustable Tq arm , BMR lca relocate brackets now. I'm tired of gear noise along with lack of traction with the car twisting on launch needing a anti roll bar to stop this.

Here's what I'd like to try , I am going to move my LCA back to the stock hole on rear and mount my mini bars to the bottom hole and go forward on LCA. These are adjustable so once in I can preload the suspension with my weight in driver seat. This way when going to the track and abusing the car I can install the bars yet on the street I can disconnect them very easily and have the smooth ride of the Tq arm set up.
Mini ladder bar set up will take some abuse from the Tq arm on launch and gear shifts by locking pinion angle in and not letting rear twist.
I have stock shocks right now but will be ordering my drag shocks after new years .
My thinking is this will do same thing as Pete z bars. If this dont work I'll weld the tabs to top of rear and have the original style mini ladder bars and possibly switch to real ladder bar set up in the future.

This is a 1 weekend a month car if that. Might see 2000 miles a year at the most.
Opinions please ?

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

a pic or sketch of what you're gonna attempt.

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

Those bars attached to lower hole in relocation brackets and attached to the front of the LCA on bottom. This will turn the LCA into a short ladder bar .
Ladder bars dont require anti roll bars because it locks the rear end down and car will leave straight .
This set Up is known for anti squat so a good rear shock is needed to push tires down instead of allowing body to lift to much.

I have read a lot on the calvert racing caltrac bars for leaf spring cars and anti squat is common with that set up as well so I plan to run a calvert racing shock to control anti squat.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

how is it going to be attached to the front of the lca on the bottom ?

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

Well the pete z bars bolt in with two bolts through the LCA and one for the new arm. Picture below is a Pete z set up that mad man sells.


I will use a similar bracket until its dialed in . if it dont work I will turn it over and bolt it to the top of the LCA and make it like a Pete z Set up.
Once it is dialed in I'll most likely weld it solid

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

Those bars work!
I just did not like the ride and lack of cornering capability

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

The way I'm doing it they will only be on when my drag tires are bolted on for the track. Just getting Christmas out the way and will get them on soon.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

The Lakewood lift bars are similar to what you're doing. The Lakewood bars have a bad reputation because everyone adjusts them too tight and components start bending/breaking.

http://lakewoodindustries.com/suspen...y-1982-02.html

The overall effect is something I experimented with

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...n-extreme.html

In your pics,those bolted-on side plates to the LCA are interesting/simple. My next design(still in process)could prove those 'side plates' useful.

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

Very interesting . I have seen the Lakewood lift bars and that is where I got the idea to do what I'm planning. They seem to work but the design is not strong enough for the abuse when added HP or high rpm launches occur.
With my design that should not be an issue.

I would like to try the bars extension you have as well to keep my bars pointed up.
By locking in the bars with this mini ladder bar design , you should no longer need a anti roll bar as I stated above. Also the Tq arm becomes more of a just in case then an actual vital piece.
Madman even says the Tq arm shoukd be there but floating just in case. I am going to try leaving it completely attached with this set up but not making it what lifts the chassis and stressing my pinion.
I have changed gears 3 times and had them all quiet until some hard driving takes place. This is why I want to try what I'm doing and see if they stay quiet after.
I've also been told to try a pro gear and I may do that but really I'm getting to the point that an automatic trans may be in tbe future

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

The torque arm is IMPORTANT,keeps the rear pointed to the tranny output. Should a part of the LCA(s) fail,the rear will be kept pointed where it should be pointed,otherwise catastrophic things can happen.
It used to be 2 upper control arms AND 2 lower control arms,the combination of which kept the rear pointed to tranny.

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

In not removing it. Unless I make a real ladder bar set Up at some point and then I will leave the lca's

badhombre

iTrader: (4)

sounds like alot of work for minimal gain. how are you not hooking now with the torque arm setup? I have guys with daily driven cars getting up on the bumper with not much more than what you currently have. put the anti-roll bar in and get some adjustable shocks and enjoy having a setup that works

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

I'm doing shocks too . the last track outing I spun all three passes on 315x35x17 nitto 05r drag radials at 19psi.
Watching the video I could see that it squatted on passenger side and wheel hopped.
This set up does not need an anti roll bar because it keeps the car from squatting on one side. Then it also should take some hit from the pinion.
I had a ladder bar set up in my Nova and after installing gears in it that I pulled out of my trans am that made noise in my ta, gears were dead quiet in the nova.
My dads chevelle with a 12 bolt does not make noise either so I'm pretty determined that the Tq arm design is the biggest cause of gear noise transfered to the inside of car.
If this does not work, I'm out of $120 and I go another route.

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

One more note worth mentioning, I use to have an air bag in the right rear and it worked great on the track. The air bag has busted and im not looking to replace it.
I use to pull 1.64's consistent on a nitto 555r with this car, I can get it to hook on these tires with some playing and adjusting. I'm not just doing this only for traction.

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

So I added summit drag shocks set on 50/50. And car spun bad on street, was not impressed.
I made the bolt in mini bar set up

^^I found some brackets

Well I put those on top of LCA and left my LCA in bottom hole of LCA relocation brackets and put my adjustable bars in top hole( factory location on 12 bolt) and snugged the bars slightly then locked them down.

Went for a drive (yes Tq arm is still in) and car drives same, dont notice these bars on normal drive.

Stopped on a cement bridge and went to clean tires off. Car bogged down, so I figured ok no clean up or burn out.
Launched the Car at 3500 and it started bogging so I hammered the peddal. Car bit hard and pulled all through the gears hard.

First impression is great, will go tomorrow to track amd post back tomorrow night good or bad

red fury

iTrader: (1)

How did it work out for you at the track?

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

Bars were working great
Bogged to a 1.97 60 foot leaving at 3500.
Bogged to a 1.81 leaving at 4000 but started getting a lean pop up top.
Drove it home and found my pcv valve popped out just enough to have a lean condition. Fixed that and went for a test and it hooked like crazy at 4500 on any street surface. I'm on to something here

red fury

iTrader: (1)

Awesome!

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

Sure beats having to run a anti roll bar on a street car.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

NT05Rs like 12-14psi at the track FYI. And a lot of heat.