BlkBird2000

iTrader: (10)

My Passenger side tire rubs on the quarter. I've rolled the quarters and adjusted the panhard bar a bunch of times and still rubs. I don't have a front sway bar (turbo kit) and I have a stock rear sway bar. I have Konis and they were on the stiff settings. I'm running strano springs. I think it's the stock sway bar that's allowing my car to roll to the passenger side when I'm under boost. Drivers side does not run at all. I plan on getting a 9" and a drag bar this winter but want to know if anyone had the same problem as me and what the solution was. Remember the drivers side doesn't rub even if I adjust the panhard bar and push the tire way out.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

What size tire?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Adjust the PHB so the rear axle has a little bias to the drivers side, when the car is at rest.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

What are the specs on the wheels and tires you are running? Under load the car is naturally going to want to squat more on the rear passenger side than the driver side with the factory rear sway bar. It is pretty much the same effect as a fast car launching on a stock rear sway bar where the car will launch uneven and sit back on the rear passenger side hard.

BlkBird2000

iTrader: (10)

17x11 rear bs is 7.80 46mm offset

315/35/17 nitto nt05r

I have adjusted the panhard bar so the rear end is farther to the drivers side which tucks that pass side tire. Problem is the car rolls so much that still rubs the top of the wheel well. I do have a turbo lq4.. Maybe I'm making to much hp/tq for a stock sway bar?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

That's quite a bit of tire, for stock wheel wells. You might want to consider a Watts link instead of a PHB.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

With the tires/wheels being that large and the car being lowered I can definitely see the clearances being very tight with that setup. So basically the only time the issue happens is when you are accelerating and the car squats in the rear, right?

A watts link would definitely help keep the rear end centered and located which sounds like it would take care of the issue he is having.

BlkBird2000

iTrader: (10)

I got all the rub marks off the car and drove around town like normal with no rubbing. I then laid into it and the car squatted and I guess rolls right since it only rubs on the passenger side and it left rubber marks.

I haven't researched the watts link very much. I am going to be drag racing and launching hard on a 9" when I get one. But I'll be on 15x10 rts wheels. Trying to figure out if I just need a aftermarket sway bar, drag bar, or this watts link.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Since you are planning on drag racing I would get a good rear anti-roll bar like our BMR xtreme anti-roll bar before you did anything else. The rear anti-roll bar will keep the car from squatting so bad on the right rear side and get the car to squat more evenly.

After thinking about it the watts link won't help you at all so disregard that idea. You are not having an issue with the rear end moving side to side, it is definitely a squatting issue. If it was an issue with the rear end moving side to side you would have rub marks on the drivers side quarter panel and inside of the passenger side wheel well because the rear end will want to move towards the drivers side of the car as the rear of the car squats.

BlkBird2000

iTrader: (10)

I plan on buying your bmr drag bar once I purchase a 9". I gotta take it easy for the rest of the year so I don't totally destroy my tire. I would buy one from you now but I don't think the one that fits the 10 bolt (2.75) tubes fit the 9" which I think is 3". Is that correct?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

You can add a set of SLP bump-stop spacers, or make a set out of some 1/4" or thick flat metal stock. BTW what condition are you current rear bump-stops in...?
You might also need new rear bump-stops.
I'd try this first; especially since it'll be a lot more inexpensive then your other options.

BlkBird2000

iTrader: (10)

I got rid of the bump stops. They were in the way of the wheels. They were all rotted. A car with good suspension should not have the bump stops hitting anyways right?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

I'm fairly sure that's your problem right there. You need to get some form of bump stops on there, whether it's stock or custom to limit how far the rear tires go up into the wheel wells.
Furthermore, adjusting the rebound all the way up isn't helping at all. All that is doing is keeping the Koni's compressed longer making the problem even worse; set them to full soft or very close to it.

Jacking Down, Too much rebound control in relation to spring rate will cause a condition known as "jacking down." This is a condition where, after hitting a bump and compressing the spring, the damper does not allow the spring to return to a neutral position before the next bump is encountered.

This repeats with each subsequent bump until the car is actually lowered onto the bump stops. Contact with the bump stops causes a drastic increase in roll stiffness. If this condition occurs on the front, the car will understeer; if it occurs on the rear, the car will oversteer.

BlkBird2000

iTrader: (10)

Shouldn't I only need a bump stop for when I hit large bumps on the road? Doesn't seem like I should have to rely on bump stops to keep the tires from rubbing when I hit the throttle. The tire isn't only rubbing the quarter but it's rubbing the top of the fender well. I had konis and strano springs on my last car and didn't roll the quarters and didn't rub anywhere but I had a strano sway bar. I've found guys who run 9s without bump stops who don't rub. I suppose I'll just get my moser 9" and drag bar this winter and see how it does next year.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

I agree with you 100%. A bump stop should not be needed to keep a car from rubbing the tires under acceleration. If that was the case the bump stops would be riding on the rear end any time you were on the gas and that is not what they are intended for.

Pretty much any drag oriented car with a shortened rear end or larger drag wheels/tires will have to remove the bump stops to get everything to fit properly. There are many guys out there driving their cars without rear bump stops without any issues. I mean I have two cars in my personal shop right now that have shortened rear ends with drag wheels and tires that have no bump stops and they don't rub at all. Both cars are lowered a good bit too and see a decent bit of time on the street.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

BlkBird2000, the rear bump-stop are there for a good reason; to prevent the tires and/or rear-end assembly from crashing into the body/chassis and fuel tank. I do understand removing them from the factory location do to clearance issues, but you then need to find a new location to mount them. With lowering springs and larger tires you have even less clearance. Furthermore when you later install a Moser 9" you'll have even less clearance, so having some form of bump-stops will be even more important. If you're not going to relocate the bump-stops then you need to at least modify the body/chassis for additional clearance. The easiest way to do that is to put the rear back to stock height.

BMR, are you saying you condone running the car without any form of rear bump stops...?
IMO, just because someone does something and see no negative consequence(yet), doesn't make it safe and/or the right way to do it.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

What I am saying is that there are a ton of guys out there that have done it with out any issue so I don't think his problem is derived from him not having rear bump stops. The two cars I posted pictures of have no rear bump stops, are lowered in the rear and neither have ever had an issue with the rear end being driven into the chassis or fuel tank. Whether you think it is right or wrong doesn't mean that it doesn't work and I think history shows that it does. Do I think having bump stops are optimal, yes. But if you need bump stops to keep the tires from rubbing everytime you get on the gas there is something else going on. Bump stops were not designed to make contact everytime you get on the gas.

Heat Seeker WS6

iTrader: (1)

Maybe an airbag setup is something to look in to?

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...&storeId=10001

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

It going to depend on how much his rear suspension compresses when he hit the gas pedal, and without bump-stops to limit it's very possible, especially if it compresses more than a couple of inches. Furthermore if you've looked at how little compression travel a 93-02 F-body has even with a 1.2" drop springs; it's not very much at all. With a lowered F-body in normal everyday driving the rear bump-stops will contact the axle tube pads a lot, unless you drive it like granny and are driving it on buttery smooth roads.
Yeah, it might be proven to work well for many people, but it doesn't take anything near the brightest crayon in the box to figure out it's not the smartest thing to do.

BlkBird2000

iTrader: (10)

I am thinking if welding a flat piece of steel where the bump stop use to be and put the bump stop on the axle. I found a few pics on here but can't post from my phone.

I only have a 2 degree angle on my lca. Front being higher. I already have lca brackets and the rubber piece is on top of my springs. What degree of angle should I be shooting for? I know the rear is "supposed" to lift.