formula218

iTrader: (2)

i've got first gen V brakes in the front, and stock in the rear. the fronts lock up pretty easily, would one of these allow me to dial the bias to fix that?


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-12627

camarokid91

Typically with these cars have way too much rear bias and that is why you hear everyone talking about axle hope who race. Are you running an aggressive front pad compound if so your abs will be very intrusive. I am going from HP+ to DTC 30's for autocross. The HP+ had way too much initial bite. Another thing with race pads is on the street tires they will lock quick since they do not grip very well. I advise against getting a Proportioning valve just yet. Maybe run Hawk HPS in front and autozone specials out back. I run HPS in my Cts-v they seem to work well and are not very aggressive.

blaine123

U can get a brake proportioning valve and a ABS delete in a kit. Will allow u to adjust front to rear brake bias.

But u shouldnt need this as stated above unless your running large rear brakes. If ur rear brakes are underperforming ensure u have ss lines and aggressive rear pads.

formula218

iTrader: (2)

the back doesn't lock up at all (that i've noticed).

ABS is already off the car, and i'm running HP+ pads, V1 cts-v calipers, and 14" rotors. i do plan on getting more/better tire up front (went from 305 NT-05s to 255 Invos when i had to change wheels for the brakes), but i thought maybe dialing some of the bias to the back would help as well. the rear is stock brakes with Napa $19 pads. car has a lot of weight reduction as well, by spring the only things inside the car will be one stock seat, one Kirkey, a switch panel, and the cluster.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You need a proportioning valve, as stated.

blaine123

Seems your fronts are doing too much.. with the cheap Napa rear pads the rears aren't doing their share and hence the fronts lock up under heaving braking. So you can try more aggressive rear pad or just add the brake adjuster. Since you don't have ABS... should add the brake bias adjuster either way.

The wilwood one above you linked is the one you need.

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

I say change the HP+ pads. I hate those pads. Most aggressive bite I have ever experienced, that's why you get lock up. Switch pads and you will be able to modulate better. Thow something like the HPS in the back. The bias adjuster isn't a bad thing to have, but you don't need it. If you get too aggressive with rear brake bias, you will immediately regret it. But ditch those front pads first, they do nothing but lock up.

camarokid91

I thought the abs was still in the car. In that case get the bias and ditch the HP+'s.

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

Agreed. Didnt notice the lack of ABS. Also tires, but you are already aware of that.

formula218

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for your input guys. i'll get this ordered and look into swapping to a less aggressive pad compound. i had HP+ on my last car and never had a problem but it had ABS still and was 1000lbs heavier. i run HPS pads on my DD chevy prizm and like them a lot too so i'll go with those for the bird too.

on the it looks like Wilwood makes 4 different adjusters, any advice on what one would work best?
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...derValves.aspx

formula218

iTrader: (2)

^any advice?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I have the style of the top one, its pretty much the go to for ABS delete.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Here's a crappy picture:

formula218

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the pic, i ended up ordering this one (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wi...1179/overview/) because when i looked up one that the summit page said worked for a '94 firebird, this one matched up with inlet/outlet count and sizes of the lines.