M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

With summer coming up I've picked out some nice roads to go canyon carving with my friends. In the meantime I'd like to beef up my suspension to handle the twisty roads. I've done quite a but of reading and it looks like the first thing I should do is shocks/springs. So first on my list is to get a set of Koni yellows and Strano springs. Anything else I should replace/upgrade while I replace the springs/shocks? I already have bolt-on SFC's and T/A KDW tires which seem to grip pretty good.

What are some other upgrades that provide the most performance per dollar?

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

You should really search, there are a million threads asking the same question.

That being said, sway bars are the next logical upgrade after shocks/springs. While you are adding lowering springs, you may want to add an adjustable panhard bar to keep the rear centered. I prefer ones with rod ends to minimize deflection. While you are under there, inspect all bushings for wear. Last part of the puzzle is an alignment. Shoot for -1.5 degrees camber, as much castor as possible, and I prefer an 1/8in toe out for sharper steering response in a corner carver.

Empatho

iTrader: (16)

Get some strano sway-bars.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

That's a good start... Two of the "big 4" things for handling cars IMHO. The others being the bars that Empatho mentions, and a Fays2 Watts link.

That said, the springs and shocks are done together. Bars and the Watts link can be added individually, and easily, later. Then you can see what the shocks and spring give you in terms of improvement, which is quite a lot. Then you can assess where you are, and decide how much further you want to go and work from there.

I'd not recommend an adjustable PHB as a matter of course. Yes the body will shift very slightly due to lowering but it's not much. And even with a big PHB on the car the car's body still will swing left and right as it moves up and down because of how the PHB works (any PHB, adjustable or otherwise). If you are happy with how the car drives, and just want to "square it up" the little bit and don't want a Watts link, THEN we'd do an adjustable PHB.

RedDeadG8

iTrader: (3)

^totally right! I have had Strano swaybars and springs with Koni shocks since 2006. Carved many many canyon roads and loved every second of it.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Glad you are almost 10 years on and still liking things!

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

Just pulled the trigger on Koni shocks and Strano springs, can't wait to put them on

I was looking at the Watts link and saw many happy customers. I will be installing the Kooks true dual setup eventually and I believe the Fays2 gives enough clearance which was my main concern. But next up I'll probably be getting some Strano sway bars and LCA's to cure some of my wheel hop.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

It's no bad thing to work methodically through things, then you can stop exactly when you get happy. Also it lets the "new" wear off a bit so you can really see what it is you have in total, and make changes accordingly from there.

If you have a wheelshop issue, we'll deal with it. If you want the car to roll less, we'll deal with that, etc. But you're off to a great start. And thank you.

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

Just saw the sale on Strano sway bars, will grab a set soon as I can

Meanwhile I am in the market for LCA's but there's so many different kinds. Adjustable, non-adjustable, rod/rod, poly/poly, poly/roto. Any suggestions for a canyon carver with DD duty? I don't really care about ride/noise, street performance is my main goal.

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

Stock with moog replacement bushings, same as the 1LE bushings.

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

So just finished installing Koni SA's, Strano springs and a STB from Founders Performance. All I have to say is.... WOW. Car feels so much more connected to the road, yet doesn't ride harsh. I threw it around some twisties and the thing just grips. Whole new car

Note that I still have to install an adjustable panhard bar, you can see my right rear tire sunken into the fender while my drivers side rear looks like I'm running 335 drag radials...

Rod/rod adj PHB is on the way along with poly/rod LCA's and LCA relocation brackets. As for alignment specs, are the ones you gave for the track or street? I'll be going on a 500+mile cruise this coming spring and don't want my tires bald when I come back

Definitely next on the list

Got the MOOG strut mounts, best part was they didn't use the idiotic torx bolts...

smitty2919

Koni S/A shocks, strano springs, Suspension technique 35mm solid front bar, Hellwig 22mm solid adj rear swaybar and adj PHB completely changed my car.

Last think I added was a Watts link, but for a DD a Watts link may be overkill given their price IMO.

But what 79 T/A said about alignment specs.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I like this thread. Best thing I've heard today!

I'd not recommend the toe out for a street car. Would for a more aggressively driven car like on that is autocrossed a few times a month, etc, but I'm ok with that camber number if you drive it harder than the average bear around on-ramps and backroads. If you put 15k a year on it and it's 90% highway, I'd maybe back that down to -1 from -1.5.

Sam

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

Yea, I'm more of a "aggressive on-ramp'er" and take the long, twisty backroads to work type of guy. And while I do daily it I only put about 6k a year since I live right next to my work and school.

Also, is there a way to adjust rear camber/toe on these cars? Would it be beneficial at all in a street car/occasional autocrosser?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Starting from the end. No there is not any rear toe or camber adjustment... unless you want to wield a big torch and bend some stuff (not recommended by the way). Not really necessary either, especially once a Watts link (a good one, not a cheap copy) goes on, they stick the rear so much better anyway it's silly.

As for the alignment based on what you do. I'd probably compromise it @ something like -1.25 or so since you aren't putting a lot of miles on, but you have to remember that more camber makes the car hunt ruts more too.

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

No, not with a solid axle. There are some "stance" guys who heat up the axle tubes and eyeball it, but don't do that, it'll probably ruin your rear. Same goes for toe. I personally miss being able to run -2.5 degrees camber in the back on my s2k, it was perfect for auto-x and street duties.

Sam beat me to it!!

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

Ok cool. So as I sit now, with mods I have (in sig), what class would I be in if I decided to hit up some local autocross events?

As always thanks for your advice

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

If you run street tires (like anything 200TW or higher) you'd be STU. If you run anything less than 200TW, but still DOT approved you'd be in E-Street Prepared.

hardbones

I love all the Strano parts on my car!
Next suggestion would be to get some subframe connectors to tighten the whole car up, I was surprised and how different my car felt on a twisty road with them installed.

smitty2919

Front Strut brace
SFC's
Koni S/A's
Strano springs
ST front sway bar
Hellwig rear sway bar
Watts Link
275/40/17' Kumho V710's on OEM SS wheels
-1.5 Camber/Max Caster/1/8" toe out. Yes this does pull into ruts on the street but I don't drive A LOT (but it is my DD).

soon I want to add a TruTrack

I'm running ESP.