Installed Blaine Fabrication PS Cooler Kit in my SS
#1
Installed Blaine Fabrication PS Cooler Kit in my SS
Just in time for MFBA Road America Track Days this weekend. While not difficult, it sure took way more time than it should to install, perhaps I am too much of a perfectionist... Blaine's kit uses a B&M stacked plate cooler, added Redline PS fluid too for extra cooling.
That factory PS cooler is the dumbest idea I have seen -- the engineer should be shot -- PS fluid ends up in your coolant when it fails.
Now will this solve my leaking PS reservoir cap? Either get a different design reservoir, or see what TurnOne has? Suggestions? I suspect this cooler will not solve this issue.
That factory PS cooler is the dumbest idea I have seen -- the engineer should be shot -- PS fluid ends up in your coolant when it fails.
Now will this solve my leaking PS reservoir cap? Either get a different design reservoir, or see what TurnOne has? Suggestions? I suspect this cooler will not solve this issue.
Last edited by libertyforall1776; 04-30-2015 at 10:16 PM. Reason: Add install photo.
#2
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (35)
What you did is an improvement, but it'll still do it. The reason is that the factory pump just turns too fast, mainly to keep the steering effort light, but causing the fluid to get to hot and pushed out around the cap.
IMO, get the Turn One if your still getting more PS fluid pushed out around the cap than you feel you can tolerate. The TurnOne will at least drastically cut down if not completely stop it.
IMO, get the Turn One if your still getting more PS fluid pushed out around the cap than you feel you can tolerate. The TurnOne will at least drastically cut down if not completely stop it.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 04-30-2015 at 02:49 AM.
#4
Nothing helps the caps leaking, they are a vented design from GM. I have a turn one pump and the Blaine cooler, and it still sweats a decent amount. I went to a sporting goods store and grabbed a black sweat wristband, and used a black zip tie to secure it around the cap. Not a pretty solution, but very effective. Other option is to find a non vented cap that fits.
The blaine setup is great, have it on my car for 2 years now. Lots of HPDE and autocross, my PS pump is still nice and quiet and hasn't overheated and puked fluid everywhere.
The blaine setup is great, have it on my car for 2 years now. Lots of HPDE and autocross, my PS pump is still nice and quiet and hasn't overheated and puked fluid everywhere.
#5
^ Thanks for the input. Blaine is suggesting a larger reservoir, ala the Woodward offering as a kit, anyone have experience with it? On left in the photo. PDF #5 in the catalog link here: http://woodwardsteering.com/catalog2014.html
Last edited by libertyforall1776; 04-30-2015 at 05:32 PM.
#6
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Yes, Alan (Blaine) does some amazing fabrication and (road) race prep work, and offers some GREAT products, but sadly, most on here, save for us fellow frrax.com peeps, have never heard of him since they are ONLY concerned with going very fast in a straight line.
#7
Banned
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Just in time for MFBA Road America Track Days this weekend. While not difficult, it sure took way more time than it should to install, perhaps I am too much of a perfectionist... Blaine's kit uses a B&M stacked plate cooler, added Redline PS fluid too for extra cooling.
That factory PS cooler is the dumbest idea I have seen -- the engineer should be shot -- PS fluid ends up in your coolant when it fails.
Now will this solve my leaking PS reservoir cap? Either get a different design reservoir, or see what TurnOne has? Suggestions? I suspect this cooler will not solve this issue.
That factory PS cooler is the dumbest idea I have seen -- the engineer should be shot -- PS fluid ends up in your coolant when it fails.
Now will this solve my leaking PS reservoir cap? Either get a different design reservoir, or see what TurnOne has? Suggestions? I suspect this cooler will not solve this issue.
You need to put that piece of plastic back on there because disrupting the design of the factory ducting is the worst thing you can do.
Then you need to put that cooler somewhere so ambient air can flow across it. You almost just created a PS fluid heater.......just like the factory PS fluid heater does.
Next time the fans are running put your hand behind one.....its friggin HOT HOT *** air........thats whats gonna be going through the PS fluid cooler you just installed. And cutting out that piece is going to create a constant draw through it as you are driving when the fans are not on........even hotter air.
I know I am just a street driven car.....but my power steering fluid temps never get above 120*F....even on 95*F days in traffic or with aggressive driving........
My cooler gets a constant blast of cool ambient air........from the strip I cut out in the air dam. You could put two of these on either side of your air dam in series.....you should run cool fluid temps like that on the road course.
.
Last edited by LS6427; 04-30-2015 at 09:32 PM.
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#8
Appreciate your input. Almost any other cooler is better than the prone to fail and put PS fluid in your coolant OEM PS Cooler -- well documented at LS1Tech and elsewhere! Not only that but the cooling ability of the OEM unit was not so good using that engine coolant to do the job...
The real test will be to measure my PS fluid temperature after a good workout and report back here for others to post and compare their temps. Anyone have a suggestion for a good way to measure PS fluid temp? I could open the reservoir after a good workout and use an infrared thermometer w/laser guide. Assuming they are accurate for this purpose? How are you measuring your temps?
Blaine's comments are as follows:
"I say that coolant cooling is the priority - all other fluids are secondary. Coolant must be kept under control or you will be on the trailer. Putting other coolers in front of the radiator risks compromising the priority. A benefit of the rear location is that it gets airflow any time the fans are running, whether the car is moving or not. Air coming of the radiator is still way cooler than the PS fluid, and if the car is not moving it is getting ambient air from behind the cooler."
Also, LT1 engine F-Bodies have a hole in the fan shroud there already from the factory...:
The real test will be to measure my PS fluid temperature after a good workout and report back here for others to post and compare their temps. Anyone have a suggestion for a good way to measure PS fluid temp? I could open the reservoir after a good workout and use an infrared thermometer w/laser guide. Assuming they are accurate for this purpose? How are you measuring your temps?
Blaine's comments are as follows:
"I say that coolant cooling is the priority - all other fluids are secondary. Coolant must be kept under control or you will be on the trailer. Putting other coolers in front of the radiator risks compromising the priority. A benefit of the rear location is that it gets airflow any time the fans are running, whether the car is moving or not. Air coming of the radiator is still way cooler than the PS fluid, and if the car is not moving it is getting ambient air from behind the cooler."
Also, LT1 engine F-Bodies have a hole in the fan shroud there already from the factory...:
Bro....what you just did is allow extremely HOT air to blow right into your PS fluid cooler. HOT air from the radiator.
You need to put that piece of plastic back on there because disrupting the design of the factory ducting is the worst thing you can do.
Then you need to put that cooler somewhere so ambient air can flow across it. You almost just created a PS fluid heater.......just like the factory PS fluid heater does.
Next time the fans are running put your hand behind one.....its friggin HOT HOT *** air........thats whats gonna be going through the PS fluid cooler you just installed. And cutting out that piece is going to create a constant draw through it as you are driving when the fans are not on........even hotter air.
I know I am just a street driven car.....but my power steering fluid temps never get above 120*F....even on 95*F days in traffic or with aggressive driving........
My cooler gets a constant blast of cool ambient air........from the strip I cut out in the air dam. You could put two of these on either side of your air dam in series.....you should run cool fluid temps like that on the road course.
.
You need to put that piece of plastic back on there because disrupting the design of the factory ducting is the worst thing you can do.
Then you need to put that cooler somewhere so ambient air can flow across it. You almost just created a PS fluid heater.......just like the factory PS fluid heater does.
Next time the fans are running put your hand behind one.....its friggin HOT HOT *** air........thats whats gonna be going through the PS fluid cooler you just installed. And cutting out that piece is going to create a constant draw through it as you are driving when the fans are not on........even hotter air.
I know I am just a street driven car.....but my power steering fluid temps never get above 120*F....even on 95*F days in traffic or with aggressive driving........
My cooler gets a constant blast of cool ambient air........from the strip I cut out in the air dam. You could put two of these on either side of your air dam in series.....you should run cool fluid temps like that on the road course.
.
Last edited by libertyforall1776; 04-30-2015 at 11:24 PM. Reason: correct for clarity
#9
Banned
iTrader: (2)
Appreciate your input. Almost any other cooler is better than the prone to fail and put PS fluid in your coolant OEM PS Cooler -- well documented at LS1Tech and elsewhere! Not only that but the cooling ability of the OEM unit was not so good using that engine coolant to do the job...
But the way you have yours mounted will not be much cooler than the factory cooler.....just a little cooler.
You have hot air blasting through it.....
Mine has cool ambient air flowing through mine. faster, cheaper and a more efficient easy to work on set up.......
Anyone have a suggestion for a good way to measure PS fluid temp? I could open the reservoir after a good workout and use an infrared thermometer w/laser guide. Assuming they are accurate for this purpose? How are you measuring your temps?
Blaine's comments are as follows:
"I say that coolant cooling is the priority - all other fluids are secondary. Coolant must be kept under control or you will be on the trailer. Putting other coolers in front of the radiator risks compromising the priority. A benefit of the rear location is that it gets airflow any time the fans are running, whether the car is moving or not. Air coming of the radiator is still way cooler than the PS fluid, and if the car is not moving it is getting ambient air from behind the cooler."
"I say that coolant cooling is the priority - all other fluids are secondary. Coolant must be kept under control or you will be on the trailer. Putting other coolers in front of the radiator risks compromising the priority. A benefit of the rear location is that it gets airflow any time the fans are running, whether the car is moving or not. Air coming of the radiator is still way cooler than the PS fluid, and if the car is not moving it is getting ambient air from behind the cooler."
But putting a cooler right behind the radiator, where nothing but extremely hot air is coming from....is just as bad. But at least its not hurting the cooling system for the engine...its just doing nothing for the PS fluid.....
.
#10
Banned
iTrader: (2)
Also, LT1 engine F-Bodies have a whole in the shroud there already from the factory...:
We have perhaps the most laughable transmission coolers in our radiators.....also designed by GM.
Ridiculous PCV systems letting oil back into the intake where only fresh air should be.
There are many things the factory designs that are simply....JUNK. The hole in the shroud in the LT1....another example of a ridiculous design. Its a cooler...getting heated.
.