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Fairly similar design, if you ask me. I read somewhere that they're some type of coilover. Other than pulling the trans, changing brakes out, and what I just did, I am a complete T/A rookie. I just came from a lightly modded 03 GTP in search of a faster, more iconic Pontiac. Got what I paid for, no question.
So I've had this awesome thread bookmarked for awhile. On Wednesday, I have my car scheduled to put in some LCA relocation brackets, LCAs, and some stock Moog springs. The car already had Koni STRTs installed a few months back. However the MAIN purpose for the post is this-
Currently the car is lowered on Eibachs and I am returning JUST the rear back to stock height due to exhaust clearance issues. Will I still need to purchase the seats shown on the first page? Or is that just for the front shocks?
thank you for bumping this up. I was trying to find this thread. Our Koni rep was here a few days ago and I was explaining to him about the fitment issue we are having with the stock spring isolators and the provided lower cups. I told him I had just been using this write up for reference on trimming them in the meantime. They are going to look into making that cup slightly larger to accommodate the isolator without any trimming
Since it has been a while, what did you torque the nut on the shock shaft to? Or was running it down until it contacts the isolator as you did good enough? My manual does not list a torque value for that nut.
Bump. And another noob question. I just got new shock mounts, isolators, seat, etc so I can assemble the shock/spring assembly. Is it a bad thing to assemble it and leave it there for a while. Or does it need to be assembled and put onto the car before too long? I'm just worried about the spring pressure being too much on the nut without the weight of the car on it. Or am I just being paranoid? Lol.
Great write up!
Is there a way to assemble the strut without having to take the old one out to compare it to?
Also how do you know how far to compress the spring before you set the shock nut?
The isolators are marked LH and RH which is driver' side and passenger side?
The isolators are the same part number and look the same. Unless you are referring to the shock mounts. Those are different and have different part numbers.
The isolators are the same part number and look the same. Unless you are referring to the shock mounts. Those are different and have different part numbers.
Yes I want to assemble the struts on the shock mounts and can't tell which is driver or passenger. Same issue with control arms. I bought spares to rebuild.
I want to do as much as possible off the car with the extra parts (strut mounts, control arms etc) while keeping the car on the road. The plan is to just swap old for new on a weekend to minimize down time.
Isolators should fit either left or right side, the shock mounts have a left and right side, the shock mounts are the things with the two threaded studs sticking out of it.
You can assemble the new shock/spring assembly without having to pull the old one out to compare how everything is oriented, however I wouldn't. I would get it as close to the original orientation and that of course requires pulling the old assembly out first then assembling the new shock/spring based off the old assembly. The only two things that need correct orientation is the shock mount (where the two threaded studs go through the engine bay) and the bottom of the shock (the two bolts that go through the lower control arm.) Once both of those are aligned correctly, then tighten down the top shock nut and try to keep everything from moving around. If you have Koni SA's then you have to keep the adjuster window facing you or the rear of the car at the same time, if you don't have those shocks, no need to worry about any of that.
How hard to tighten the shock nut? - As hard as you can!!! Use an open end wrench to tighten it to where you can't tighten it anymore and you're good to go. You won't over-tighten it with only an open end wrench. Do not use an air ratchet on the shock nut! I tightened my shock nut with 3-4 threads showing and it was contacting the isolator, but I took it for a drive afterwards and it clunked hard over every bump. I then compressed the spring much further my second time around until the spring was flopping around even after I tightened the shock nut all the way down (8-9 threads showing for me, mileage may vary here.)
It's probably more than fine to leave an assembled shock/spring laying around without the weight of the car compressing the spring a little, but if it makes you sleep better at night, it really doesn't take that long to assemble one, the longest part being compressing the springs using a ratchet and alternating between sides of the spring compressor. An air ratchet comes in handy here as long as you tighten each side a little at a time
I just went through a dry run and assembled both front springs/shocks. I did as OP indicated and sanded the moog isolator to fit the koni seat. It was not difficult at all. Then it occurred to me to ask if the isolator is really necessary? It seems like Koni intends on not using an isolator with their shock otherwise it would be larger in diameter.
Also won't the isolator add height to the assembly and thus affect ride height? I am thinking along the lines like the rear trick for lowering the rear with the stock spring.
I am referring to the black donut in the bottom left of photo.
I recommend using the isolator to avoid metal on metal contact. I think Koni misfired on the inside diameter of their base plate. I like the ride height of my setup.
This should be a sticky for sure! Great write-up! Hopefully be putting my Koni shocks and BMR springs on this weekend (granted my Moog parts come in on time). I'll post up pics when its done.
Isolators should fit either left or right side, the shock mounts have a left and right side, the shock mounts are the things with the two threaded studs sticking out of it.
You can assemble the new shock/spring assembly without having to pull the old one out to compare how everything is oriented, however I wouldn't. I would get it as close to the original orientation and that of course requires pulling the old assembly out first then assembling the new shock/spring based off the old assembly. The only two things that need correct orientation is the shock mount (where the two threaded studs go through the engine bay) and the bottom of the shock (the two bolts that go through the lower control arm.) Once both of those are aligned correctly, then tighten down the top shock nut and try to keep everything from moving around. If you have Koni SA's then you have to keep the adjuster window facing you or the rear of the car at the same time, if you don't have those shocks, no need to worry about any of that.
How hard to tighten the shock nut? - As hard as you can!!! Use an open end wrench to tighten it to where you can't tighten it anymore and you're good to go. You won't over-tighten it with only an open end wrench. Do not use an air ratchet on the shock nut! I tightened my shock nut with 3-4 threads showing and it was contacting the isolator, but I took it for a drive afterwards and it clunked hard over every bump. I then compressed the spring much further my second time around until the spring was flopping around even after I tightened the shock nut all the way down (8-9 threads showing for me, mileage may vary here.)
It's probably more than fine to leave an assembled shock/spring laying around without the weight of the car compressing the spring a little, but if it makes you sleep better at night, it really doesn't take that long to assemble one, the longest part being compressing the springs using a ratchet and alternating between sides of the spring compressor. An air ratchet comes in handy here as long as you tighten each side a little at a time
i have a question, the strut mounts and spring insulator both come with 2 bolts and 2 nuts. Where do these bolts and nuts go? I didnt take my car apart yet so I didnt get a chance to find them on the car.
i have a question, the strut mounts and spring insulator both come with 2 bolts and 2 nuts. Where do these bolts and nuts go? I didnt take my car apart yet so I didnt get a chance to find them on the car.
On the shock mount (the thing with the two studs sticking out of it on one side.) They're replacement bolts and nuts basically. 2 nuts and 2 bolts all go to 1 shock mount.
I should also mention: when tightening down the shock nut, use a vice to keep the shock shaft from spinning. I think the OP already covered that, I'm not sure though I forget
On the shock mount (the thing with the two studs sticking out of it on one side.) They're replacement bolts and nuts basically. 2 nuts and 2 bolts all go to 1 shock mount.
I should also mention: when tightening down the shock nut, use a vice to keep the shock shaft from spinning. I think the OP already covered that, I'm not sure though I forget
What do I do with the other 2 bolts and nuts that came with the strut insulator?
What do I do with the other 2 bolts and nuts that came with the strut insulator?
You don't use those. You'll reuse all the original hardware with the exception of the top nut for the fronts. For the rears you'll use the new top nut and bottom bolt/nut/washers that came with the shocks. It will make a lot more sense once you get the originals of the car.
Edit: Make absolutely sure you tighten the top retaining nut on the top of the front shock all the way down. I didn't so I had a knock in the front when going over bumps. Had to take the shocks out all over again to tighten our all the way. You'll know when it's done...you won't be able to turn the shaft anymore.
for anyone who is doing this install i just finished up. its a real pita to tighten the nut down to the isolator on the new shocks. you need to basically hold top of the stud with a small wrench while tightening the bolt down to the isolator.
this was my first time doing the install too i should mention obviously to me now that you should keep the springs compressed as you are bolting the upper bolts and shock bolts. it makes it easier to maneuver in there.
Glad I found this. Just finished this same job yesterday but realized I put the metal cap in the wrong spot. The one that is supposed to go over the top of the shock body.
Glad I get to get it corrected. Hate that my swap is delayed a few more hours.
12-05-2015, 03:10 AM
