1200hp build, suspension questions
02-09-2016, 05:09 PM
#1
1200hp build, suspension questions whats up guys, i have a 99 camaro that i am pretty close to getting to run for this season. It is mainly a street car and will be on low bosot for now. hoping around 7xx wheel through the built 4l60e that is in it for now. I will be switching to a th400 or a 4l80 later. I currentley have a factory 10 bolt and it will be mostly street driven...but i live 5 min from the track so i might be there more often then not. I have a adjustable panhard bar. welded in subframe connectors, upgraded lower rear control arm. but i have a factory torque arm. now my question is what torque arm would work for now and later? i saw the umi adjustable torque arm that mounts to the drive shaft safty loop. Im not sure if this would work.
Also i have stock rear shocks currentley and springs. Would going to coilvers be good? Like vikings and what not? Just dont want to have to swap these out multiple times and want ride height adjustablity. or get viking shocks and maybe an adjustable rear spring if they make it? ANy input here is great. i am not a suspension person at all lol
Also i have stock rear shocks currentley and springs. Would going to coilvers be good? Like vikings and what not? Just dont want to have to swap these out multiple times and want ride height adjustablity. or get viking shocks and maybe an adjustable rear spring if they make it? ANy input here is great. i am not a suspension person at all lol
02-09-2016, 06:36 PM
#2
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What you talkin about, stock suspension can handle 7s without complaining all day! 
Any vendor that'll show up here is good and know what you'll need for your setup. I'm not specific to any brand, however, I know Midwest Chassis posted up a thread recently advertising one of their torque arms used on a turbo build and that thing launched wickedly. Some very high horsepower cars run their parts and they work with that kind of insane horsepower as well. Not to talk down any of the other vendors because their products are by no means any worse in my opinion, but I thought I'd share that
Any vendor that'll show up here is good and know what you'll need for your setup. I'm not specific to any brand, however, I know Midwest Chassis posted up a thread recently advertising one of their torque arms used on a turbo build and that thing launched wickedly. Some very high horsepower cars run their parts and they work with that kind of insane horsepower as well. Not to talk down any of the other vendors because their products are by no means any worse in my opinion, but I thought I'd share that
02-09-2016, 06:44 PM
#3
What you talkin about, stock suspension can handle 7s without complaining all day!
Any vendor that'll show up here is good and know what you'll need for your setup. I'm not specific to any brand, however, I know Midwest Chassis posted up a thread recently advertising one of their torque arms used on a turbo build and that thing launched wickedly. Some very high horsepower cars run their parts and they work with that kind of insane horsepower as well. Not to talk down any of the other vendors because their products are by no means any worse in my opinion, but I thought I'd share that
Any vendor that'll show up here is good and know what you'll need for your setup. I'm not specific to any brand, however, I know Midwest Chassis posted up a thread recently advertising one of their torque arms used on a turbo build and that thing launched wickedly. Some very high horsepower cars run their parts and they work with that kind of insane horsepower as well. Not to talk down any of the other vendors because their products are by no means any worse in my opinion, but I thought I'd share that
02-09-2016, 09:35 PM
#4
You definitely need to get the torque arm off the tail shaft.
The question is what torque arm style(long or short) will work best for your application.
You'll find many of threads regarding this here at LS1tech.
The short tunnel mount style is aimed at the straight line application.
It will "hit" the rear tires hardest of the two styles, but will be lacking in the handling dept. in that you can develop some ill handling characteristics during braking and cornering.
The long style is best suited for handling applications but can also be used in a street/strip application and more often than not is sufficient for an application like yours.
One of the biggest complaints we hear about from guys using the tunnel mount is that there can be alot of NVH transmitted through this style causing a not so pleasant ride on the street.
Basically it comes down to how much you want a decent ride and good handling -vs- how much your willing to sacrifice to gain a little bit at the strip.
If you decide on the long style I would recommend the relocation kit with an aftermarket torque arm for added strength.
As far as shocks go you can't go wrong with Viking for your application.
They are probably the "best bang for your buck" double adjustable shocks on the market at the present time. If you only want to do it once like you say There is some info that's needed about future modifications that could be the difference between the viking warrior series and the Valve specific Crusader series being the right shock.
The biggest advantage of going coil-overs is the ability of adjusting the ride height of your car to wherever suits you best. The other advantage is that you can change spring rates very reasonable (depending on the spring rate for approx. $40 per spring) .
If you need any info or pricing feel free to contact me at the shop. We can discuss in more detail your current set-up and future modifications you are planning so that you are sure to get the correct components.
If you are going the coil-over route selecting the correct length and rate springs can be huge trying to accomplish a street/strip combination.
Craig
The question is what torque arm style(long or short) will work best for your application.
You'll find many of threads regarding this here at LS1tech.
The short tunnel mount style is aimed at the straight line application.
It will "hit" the rear tires hardest of the two styles, but will be lacking in the handling dept. in that you can develop some ill handling characteristics during braking and cornering.
The long style is best suited for handling applications but can also be used in a street/strip application and more often than not is sufficient for an application like yours.
One of the biggest complaints we hear about from guys using the tunnel mount is that there can be alot of NVH transmitted through this style causing a not so pleasant ride on the street.
Basically it comes down to how much you want a decent ride and good handling -vs- how much your willing to sacrifice to gain a little bit at the strip.
If you decide on the long style I would recommend the relocation kit with an aftermarket torque arm for added strength.
As far as shocks go you can't go wrong with Viking for your application.
They are probably the "best bang for your buck" double adjustable shocks on the market at the present time. If you only want to do it once like you say There is some info that's needed about future modifications that could be the difference between the viking warrior series and the Valve specific Crusader series being the right shock.
The biggest advantage of going coil-overs is the ability of adjusting the ride height of your car to wherever suits you best. The other advantage is that you can change spring rates very reasonable (depending on the spring rate for approx. $40 per spring) .
If you need any info or pricing feel free to contact me at the shop. We can discuss in more detail your current set-up and future modifications you are planning so that you are sure to get the correct components.
If you are going the coil-over route selecting the correct length and rate springs can be huge trying to accomplish a street/strip combination.
Craig
02-09-2016, 09:43 PM
#5
You definitely need to get the torque arm off the tail shaft.
The question is what torque arm style(long or short) will work best for your application.
You'll find many of threads regarding this here at LS1tech.
The short tunnel mount style is aimed at the straight line application.
It will "hit" the rear tires hardest of the two styles, but will be lacking in the handling dept. in that you can develop some ill handling characteristics during braking and cornering.
The long style is best suited for handling applications but can also be used in a street/strip application and more often than not is sufficient for an application like yours.
One of the biggest complaints we hear about from guys using the tunnel mount is that there can be alot of NVH transmitted through this style causing a not so pleasant ride on the street.
Basically it comes down to how much you want a decent ride and good handling -vs- how much your willing to sacrifice to gain a little bit at the strip.
If you decide on the long style I would recommend the relocation kit with an aftermarket torque arm for added strength.
As far as shocks go you can't go wrong with Viking for your application.
They are probably the "best bang for your buck" double adjustable shocks on the market at the present time. If you only want to do it once like you say There is some info that's needed about future modifications that could be the difference between the viking warrior series and the Valve specific Crusader series being the right shock.
The biggest advantage of going coil-overs is the ability of adjusting the ride height of your car to wherever suits you best. The other advantage is that you can change spring rates very reasonable (depending on the spring rate for approx. $40 per spring) .
If you need any info or pricing feel free to contact me at the shop. We can discuss in more detail your current set-up and future modifications you are planning so that you are sure to get the correct components.
If you are going the coil-over route selecting the correct length and rate springs can be huge trying to accomplish a street/strip combination.
Craig
The question is what torque arm style(long or short) will work best for your application.
You'll find many of threads regarding this here at LS1tech.
The short tunnel mount style is aimed at the straight line application.
It will "hit" the rear tires hardest of the two styles, but will be lacking in the handling dept. in that you can develop some ill handling characteristics during braking and cornering.
The long style is best suited for handling applications but can also be used in a street/strip application and more often than not is sufficient for an application like yours.
One of the biggest complaints we hear about from guys using the tunnel mount is that there can be alot of NVH transmitted through this style causing a not so pleasant ride on the street.
Basically it comes down to how much you want a decent ride and good handling -vs- how much your willing to sacrifice to gain a little bit at the strip.
If you decide on the long style I would recommend the relocation kit with an aftermarket torque arm for added strength.
As far as shocks go you can't go wrong with Viking for your application.
They are probably the "best bang for your buck" double adjustable shocks on the market at the present time. If you only want to do it once like you say There is some info that's needed about future modifications that could be the difference between the viking warrior series and the Valve specific Crusader series being the right shock.
The biggest advantage of going coil-overs is the ability of adjusting the ride height of your car to wherever suits you best. The other advantage is that you can change spring rates very reasonable (depending on the spring rate for approx. $40 per spring) .
If you need any info or pricing feel free to contact me at the shop. We can discuss in more detail your current set-up and future modifications you are planning so that you are sure to get the correct components.
If you are going the coil-over route selecting the correct length and rate springs can be huge trying to accomplish a street/strip combination.
Craig
Craig, I will be giving you a call tomorrow! Thanks for you help.
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02-17-2016, 09:19 AM
#9
Mostly street driven. I won't go to the track until I gave a diff rear. So far I have adjustable pan hard bar. Non adjustable lower control arms. Umi short tunnel mount torque arm and stock springs. Stock shocks. Would like to hook up on the street. The car already had the lower control arms. I may switch to adjustable one because I'm running a 275/60/15.
02-17-2016, 09:34 AM
#10
Mostly street driven. I won't go to the track until I gave a diff rear. So far I have adjustable pan hard bar. Non adjustable lower control arms. Umi short tunnel mount torque arm and stock springs. Stock shocks. Would like to hook up on the street. The car already had the lower control arms. I may switch to adjustable one because I'm running a 275/60/15.