bad_408_vert

iTrader: (6)

Okay, so the car is a 2002 LS1 A4 Camaro convertible with true dual exhaust on stock 16x8" wheels.

Soon enough I 'll be getting Torq Thrust M (17x9") wheels with P275/40ZR17 size tires.

My goals are swift street driving in urban city(nyc).
It doesn't have to be a road course ninja and it wont see the 1320 track at all.

Shocks - Koni STR.T Shocks (All 4)

Springs - Orignially I wanted to go with BMR but its listed as 1.25" but my exhaust won't allow it.
Only other brand in my budget I see is Vogtland, which is 1" drop.
Will It be big difference between 1" and 1.25" springs?

Subframe Connectors - UMI 2 point Bolt on

Sway Bars - UMI Solid Front and Rear Sway Bar Kit - (35mm & 22mm)

PHB & LCA - UMI Performance Lower Control Arms & On-Car Adjustable Panhard Bar Kit.

Relocation Brackets - UMI Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets(Bolt On)

For Installation - I 'll start with SFC, Sway Bars,LCA (and brackets), PHB, Shocks & Springs, Alignment.

Anything I might 've missed?
Anything you 'd do different?

SoFla01SSLookinstok

I have the UMI solid sway bars. Even after removing the strut tower brace, the car is very tight.

What about a torque arm setup?

bad_408_vert

iTrader: (6)

I got mix information.
some say torque arm is absolutely necessary , some say its not since I 'll only lower the car 1" and 17x9'' wheels , which was already an option on SS and WS6 cars with stock torque arm.

Captain Slow

I would (did) save some cash and get the Founders equivalent LCA's, PHB, relocation brackets and subframe connectors.

Hollow anti-sway bars from Strano, too.

I have the BMR springs w/ the stock torque arm..save your money.

bad_408_vert

iTrader: (6)

I looked into founders but their SFC didn't fit convertibles and their shipping was a little high to my address.

I figure I ll get eberything from one place and Over all it's a very small price difference between mixing parts from different vendors vs ordering it from ws6 project.

So far it looks like everyone is a no for the torque arm?

Tracer Bullet

iTrader: (2)

For what you're doing you really aren't going to need any of that.

Corvett z07

iTrader: (2)

Agreed, I'd start out with sways then shocks/springs if you want to go further than just sway bars. If you really want some red components under your car, I'd prefer to see you get an adjustable panhard rod. SFC, LCA and LCA brackets are not necessary IMO but debatable among others.

1.25in drop vs 1in drop is well just that. One is a quarter of an inch lower than the other. If you really need that extra quarter of an inch than I'd really think about running stock springs with aftermarket shocks, which is still an upgrade. Then you won't have to worry as much going over speed bumps or NYC potholes

Founders Performance

iTrader: (1)

Give us a call on the shipping. We have discovered that FedEx is not giving our customers our negotiated rates and we are working with FedEx to get this fixed.

As for the subframe connectors, the convertibles have full frame rails which is why we don't make connectors for them. The stiffness vs weight gain we have decided isn't worth the weight or money for our customers.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

You will get testimonials here from guys that have done many different mods
and whether it was worth the money for a particular application.

A big factor to consider when choosing suspension components is future plans for the car.

You may not need adjustable components now but they could possibly save you money and headaches down the road.

Feel free to give me a call here at the shop (the calls free) so we can discuss what you are trying to accomplish with the car now and in the future.

I can then put together a custom package and give you pricing for the components.

Craig

TX98Z28

Get the hollow sways from Strano, there lighter than solids and prove to be just as good in terms of performance. I'd add a torque arm, the stock on is trash, it's a stamped piece of steel GM failed on that one. Would love to see you add a watts links, a lot of guys on here say it's the best suspension mod they ever made and wish it was the first.

caturnbull1

iTrader: (2)

i would get a torque arm. i ended up, i guess you can say, ripping mine where the bolts are on the rear. went with founders with lca and panhard. i thing torque also. good quality with a great price. I will be ordering a strano package soon as well. i have duals with x pipe all the way out the back and have more ground clearance than a friend with a y pipe.

SuperSport01

Good choice of shocks.

Vogtland springs definitely lower the car more than 1". They actually seem to sit lower than BMR 1.25" springs. I also don't like Vogtland's springs rates, they aren't terrible, but they are too soft in the front and too stiff in the rear. BMR has a more proper spring rate balance as do Strano springs.
I have Hotchkis springs on my SS and they are a bit soft but they were the 1" of drop I was looking for and they are better rate than the oem springs.

Bolt on SFC are a waste of time and money in my opinion. I would get UMI's 2 point weld in subframe connectors because they are the same price and they still bolt on. Then later you can get them welded on.

The UMI solid sway bars will do great, Strano hollow bars will do better. Either way is a drastic upgrade over stock.

The UMI phb and lca's are great choices.

Unless you are going to the dragstrip and launching your car alot I would leave off the relocation brackets. I don't like the way relocation brackets make the car handle. It can become a bit unpredictable. For launching I would worry about changing the torque arm before I did lca relocation brackets.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Many of my points have already been stated above. Most of what you have picked out is a very good and balanced combo for a street driven car. It will feel dramatically different without compromising ride quality.
Our springs are advertised at 1.25", however as with most springs this is not a hard number. Most of these cars vary with different options and weight, but the 1.25" is normally the most drop we see. Lighter cars will drop less. Also, our springs are guaranteed for life against sagging.
Another consideration with sway bars is our 35mm front/25mm rear bars, both hollow. This save a lot of weight and still offers excellent performance.

We offer all the parts you mentioned as well. Usually I can work a pretty good deal on doing multiple items like this in a custom package. Give me a call and I'll see what I can work for you

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

Since it's mostly a street car I'd say just load your stock LCAs with the solid 1LE bushing, you don't need adjustable for that mild of a drop with the stock rear. PHB is up to you, I'd say do an adjustable just to make sure everything is centered, but again the difference is probably negligible with a mild drop.

Another vote for hollow sways from strano because #weightreductionbro and try to budget all new bushings, mounts and balljoints from moog while you're under there.

01Z0H6

iTrader: (63)

I too have an SS Vert. My suspension parts are as follows.
BMR Weld in SFC's, BMR lowering Springs, BMR LCA's (non adj), BMR adj PHR, Bilstein HD's, BMR upper control arms, BMR STB... works very nicely together.

NoHope

I have the BMR lowering springs, KONI yellows on the way, and Founders adj. PHB on the way. Someone said get 1LE bushings for the LCA's? Where can those be found?

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

Moog makes some, Strano should have them if you give him a call. Worst case he'll give you the part #.

transamtom

iTrader: (8)

Do the swaybars they will make it handle like a rat wearing reeboks

The aftermarket TQ arms are mostly for drag racing and not really needed for a good canyon carver.

My 94TA was set up more for track and auto cross but I did 75% of my racing at the dragstrip.

When I built my 99 TA I went drag all the way and the car was a lot more fun..

Build your car for what you like to use it for.