MWC anti rollbar pics
#1
MWC anti rollbar pics
Anyone have any installation pics of there bolt-in style rollbar? I'm thinking about ordering one this week but I won't have much time between races to install it. Just want to make sure this is something I can do myself in the garage.
Any pics of the installation would be helpful. Thanks!
Any pics of the installation would be helpful. Thanks!
#4
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http://www.midwestchassis.com/anti-roll-bar.html
The full bolt-in version will install in minutes. The chassis bracket bolts to the existing spot for the oem end links and relocates the link inboard to eliminate the shock clearance issue seen with other popular bars out there. The MWC unit is a tubular chromoly design and weighs 20 pounds less than other similar "drag bars".
The weld-on bracket version uses the same bar, but the brackets that attach to the car are made to weld on the back of the frame rail instead.
All we need is the center to center dimensions of your rearend brackets if they are already welded to the housing.
The full bolt-in version will install in minutes. The chassis bracket bolts to the existing spot for the oem end links and relocates the link inboard to eliminate the shock clearance issue seen with other popular bars out there. The MWC unit is a tubular chromoly design and weighs 20 pounds less than other similar "drag bars".
The weld-on bracket version uses the same bar, but the brackets that attach to the car are made to weld on the back of the frame rail instead.
All we need is the center to center dimensions of your rearend brackets if they are already welded to the housing.
#5
http://www.midwestchassis.com/anti-roll-bar.html
The full bolt-in version will install in minutes. The chassis bracket bolts to the existing spot for the oem end links and relocates the link inboard to eliminate the shock clearance issue seen with other popular bars out there. The MWC unit is a tubular chromoly design and weighs 20 pounds less than other similar "drag bars".
The weld-on bracket version uses the same bar, but the brackets that attach to the car are made to weld on the back of the frame rail instead.
All we need is the center to center dimensions of your rearend brackets if they are already welded to the housing.
The full bolt-in version will install in minutes. The chassis bracket bolts to the existing spot for the oem end links and relocates the link inboard to eliminate the shock clearance issue seen with other popular bars out there. The MWC unit is a tubular chromoly design and weighs 20 pounds less than other similar "drag bars".
The weld-on bracket version uses the same bar, but the brackets that attach to the car are made to weld on the back of the frame rail instead.
All we need is the center to center dimensions of your rearend brackets if they are already welded to the housing.
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#9
Sounds good and since I was recently asked the question why measuring is so important. Our anti roll bars are designed to allow no side to side movement. Other styles on the market will allow this and some even have an issue with making contact with the rear shocks.
#13
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Heres mine. Couple of things, it may take a couple of tries to get it adjusted perfect. Not enough and it will still lift the driver tire, too much and the car will go sideways on launch. Also, I had to widen the holes just a smidge to get it to fit my 12 bolt. I made eric aware of this, not sure if they adjusted their bracket design or not, but if they didnt then be prepared to do the same most likely. Other then that its rock solid, a little noisy over rough roads but thats to be expected.
#14
Heres mine. Couple of things, it may take a couple of tries to get it adjusted perfect. Not enough and it will still lift the driver tire, too much and the car will go sideways on launch. Also, I had to widen the holes just a smidge to get it to fit my 12 bolt. I made eric aware of this, not sure if they adjusted their bracket design or not, but if they didnt then be prepared to do the same most likely. Other then that its rock solid, a little noisy over rough roads but thats to be expected.
So can you adjust it where it pulls the wheels and where it leaves flat on the ground? I'd like for it to still pulls the wheels like in the pic I posted but just more square.
Whoops didn't post the pic.
#15
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When you start gaining control of the twist, I feel the driver tire doesnt come up as much, equaling the lift. Meaning mine would pull the driver tire 6/8 inches, passenger none. Got it on and under adjusted and no change (still driver lift), got it over adjusted and it stayed flat (no lift) but pulled like hell to the left on launch, got it correct and now I have body only flex on launch which nets me like 6-8 on driver and 4-6 on passenger. Difference being I lightened the car about 200 pounds to get it to start coming back up....and I think I added coilovers too to that helped lift.
#17
When you start gaining control of the twist, I feel the driver tire doesnt come up as much, equaling the lift. Meaning mine would pull the driver tire 6/8 inches, passenger none. Got it on and under adjusted and no change (still driver lift), got it over adjusted and it stayed flat (no lift) but pulled like hell to the left on launch, got it correct and now I have body only flex on launch which nets me like 6-8 on driver and 4-6 on passenger. Difference being I lightened the car about 200 pounds to get it to start coming back up....and I think I added coilovers too to that helped lift.
#19
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Be careful of what people call "frame connectors" here. The outside(or any portion) of the LCA box is NOT THE SUBFRAME. Neither is the front floor crossbrace (rib that the trans crossmember is attached to). However, some manufacturers feel it is ok to attach a piece of material to the floor crossbrace, run alongside the rocker, and then to the outside of the LCA box. You can call this unit a "jacking rail", but it is definitely not a frame connector.
MWC frame connectors are exactly that... a true frame connector that attach to the actual front and rear subframes of the chassis.
MWC frame connectors are exactly that... a true frame connector that attach to the actual front and rear subframes of the chassis.