ThatRedLs1

I have a 98 trans am, and have eibach sportlines that are going on it, and am going to put in new shocks/struts with them. Any sugestions? Im not looking to break the bank too much

Zach-R

Koni are the best but you will pay for them. At half the price bilsteins are a cheaper alternative.

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

What's your price range? Breaking the bank is a relative term...

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I agree.


I had Eibachs on my car for a number of years. Initially, I used the OE DeCarbon shocks, because A) the car was brand new, so why throw brand new shocks away, and B) the budget was a little tight, as I was making payments on the car (as well as the mortgage on the house).

I paid off the car, as well as the house, at the same time, and bought a set of the SLP Bilstein shocks for the car, and they worked a lot better (different valving). I later switched to a Strano/Koni set up, and that seemed to ride/handle the best.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

Lots of different shocks out there for different purposes and different costs. We can help more if you can give us more info on your car... What do you do with the car, and what are your goals?

slpcamaross97

After a lot of reading and research I went with the SLP Bilsteins from summitracing and BRM spring. Should be able to have them installed within the next few weeks. My car is street use. Just replacing the worn 127k stock one and improving stance.

Also keep in mind if lowering your car you will need a adj panhard bar.

ThatRedLs1

I daily drive it, and want a somewhat good ride. Looking for something that will last a decent amount of time

ThatRedLs1

I'l definetly look into that. And any recommended panhard bars? Alot of people say that roto ended poly ones dont make as much noise.

ThatRedLs1

Around $500

Darth Cypher

The UMI panhard bar with Roto Joints that I use make no added noise or vibration that I have noticed.

JD_AMG

If you DD it and want a somewhat good ride, why would you even consider sportlines? Those are among the worst springs available for our cars when it comes to ride and performance, they are entirely too low and don't have enough rate to compensate for it.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

After re-reading the original post, I was thinking the same thing.....

Secondly, springs alone, are going to be close to $300. That only leaves $200 for shocks, out of a budget of "around $500". That's not enough to do the job correctly.....

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

Use the savings mod for a little while longer, then do it right, koni's are on sale right now so these are just a little out of your budget:

http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=90&ModelID=7

And bilsteins are a little more:

http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=90&ModelID=7

You could also keep an eye on the classifieds for something there, but keep in mind you are going to need another $100 or so for at least front upper mounts.

SteveC

I went with the Bilstein "B6" for Sara (2001 Z28), she is stock height.

I believe the "B8" series are for lowered vehicles

ThatRedLs1

I said i allready have the sportlines in the origional post

ThatRedLs1

Do you have a single or double adjustable? Or non adjustable?

vlad1995

iTrader: (1)

I recently put koni SA with strano springs on my car and its a night and day difference from the stock set up

Corvett z07

iTrader: (2)

For your budget and what you want out of your car (driving it daily, long lasting, reliable) I'd say the Bilsteins fit your quota pretty well. At ~$450 for a set, that's right under your budget. Bilsteins are quite reliable and ride right in the middle between sporty and comfortable. You do have to swap some parts from your old shock assembly onto the Bilsteins though for them to work (or buy new parts but that = more money.) You WILL NEED an alignment afterwards if you want to keep any kind of driving decency and tire wear to an acceptable level after you lower your car. Also mentioned, you might want to look into shock mounts, it depends on how yours are though. This stuff all adds into the cost and can be much more pricey than the $450 just for the shocks.

A panhard bar is not necessarily needed, but highly recommended. If you're running anything bigger than a 275 tire out back and you lower your car, I'd do an adjustable panhhard bar. Poly on the chassis side and roto/rod end on the axle side is the best compromise for bind-free performance and comfort levels. However a panhard bar doesn't transmit NVH like rear control arms do so even running roto's on both ends probably won't add much more, if any, NVH vs the stock panhard bar. Single adjustable means you have to adjust it when one side of the panhard bar is unbolted from the car and then you adjust it from there (more hassle but once you have the adjustment set, you don't have to ever mess with it again until you change your ride height back to stock or lower your car further.) Double adjustable and on-car adjustable are basically the same thing, just different approaches in being able to adjust the panhard bar on your car. Hope this helps in your journey

Darth Cypher

Double adjustable, let's you adjust it on the car. Also, the roto joints are on both ends. I know these can be had with different combinations so I wanted to make sure I mentioned that there are two roto joints that do not add any vibration or noise to my car.

dailydriver

I have the same, as well as double adjustable, double Roto-Jointed, rear lower control arms, and as long as you keep all of the lock rings on them hunkered down very tightly, there is NO; noise, knocking, clunking at all, even on VERY bad roads.