10 years later... I finally lowered it.
09-04-2016, 04:42 AM
#23
How does it ride ? I'm looking into the same setup myself, but i'm a bit concerned about the stagg shocks, and also how low it really gets, have you done any measurements from the road to the weel openings ?
09-04-2016, 07:50 AM
#24
I'm interested also in the ride height as well as the ride quality. I recently went with the STR.T/Strano combo and am regretting using the Strano springs. My first instinct was to go with the Vogtlands, so I'm curious how you like them with some miles on it now.
09-04-2016, 08:29 AM
#26
Koni str,t of course should be a better option, but then again, the stagg shocks are really really cheap, so it would be interesting to hear how they would perform, at least compared to 21 year old stock decarbons. I'm at 26.77 inches front and 27.17 inches at the rear ( hose mod) so would like to hear where the Vogtlands end up. ( Voghtlan comes with TÛV )
09-04-2016, 08:46 AM
#27
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Koni str,t of course should be a better option, but then again, the stagg shocks are really really cheap, so it would be interesting to hear how they would perform, at least compared to 21 year old stock decarbons. I'm at 26.77 inches front and 27.17 inches at the rear ( hose mod) so would like to hear where the Vogtlands end up. ( Voghtlan comes with TÛV )
Last edited by HCI2000SS; 09-04-2016 at 08:52 AM.
09-04-2016, 09:01 AM
#28
Looking at ebay, I can get a set of 4 lowering springs by Vogtland and 4 Stagg SHS shocks for 317 dollars.. sure everyone says get Stanos or BMR with yellow Koni, but paying over 700 dollars shipping plus 25% taxes + the springs and the shocks, also with 25% tax for a lowering almost identical to what I have today is not really an option, and also, need the TÛV papers ...
09-04-2016, 09:09 AM
#29
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Gotcha! I have to be honest though, I wouldn't trust those Stagg's over the long term. And for the small amount more for something like the STR.T you'd have a MUCH better shock that would handle those loweing springs for a long long time...probably the life of the car lol. Just a thought
09-04-2016, 09:14 AM
#30
Gotcha! I have to be honest though, I wouldn't trust those Stagg's over the long term. And for the small amount more for something like the STR.T you'd have a MUCH better shock that would handle those loweing springs for a long long time...probably the life of the car lol. Just a thought
the car is never going to se a track, just a GT cruiser for long distance driving.
09-04-2016, 09:21 AM
#31
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I totally agree, and I would probably end up with Koni or SLP bilsteins anyhow, but before I decide to do anything with the suspension I need to know just how much it will lower the car compared to what I have now, Hope the tread starter also chimes in to let us know. Roads suck over here, so if I idealy would end up at 26 and 26.25 that would be it the car is never going to se a track, just a GT cruiser for long distance driving.
the car is never going to se a track, just a GT cruiser for long distance driving.
09-05-2016, 11:00 PM
#33
The only way you can effectively set the pinion angle is with an adjustable torque arm.
Here is an article which explains why this is important to set once the geometry of the vehicle has changed (i.e. lowered):
http://www.quickperformance.com/Pini...ent_ep_45.html
Hope this helps you out in some way.
Here is an article which explains why this is important to set once the geometry of the vehicle has changed (i.e. lowered):
http://www.quickperformance.com/Pini...ent_ep_45.html
Hope this helps you out in some way.
also know when you change the ride height on the car having oem non-adjustable suspension that when the car lowers the rear end will move right horizontally because of the fixed length panhard bar. so not only will your pinion angle [u-joint phase angle] be off in the vertical sense which is all anyone ever measures... it will also be off in the horizontal sense.
raise the rear end off the ground and watch as the rear axle drops it also will move
when i replaced my rear axle and got the new drive shaft which was 42.5" u-joint to u-joint, if the rear axle is off center horizontally just 0.75" then tan-1(.75/42.5) = 1°. you want this phase angle, or difference in operating angles, between the front/rear ujoints to be less than 1° otherwise the faster the drive shaft spins the more vibration there will be.
centering the rear end is not done by eyeing it up so it looks good under the body, centered is so there is no horizontal angle difference between the front & rear ujoint, such that there's a straight line from the center of the crank pulley on the engine thru the transmission and down the drive shaft to the connection at the rear axle.
correction: the panhard bar connects to the body on the right (passenger) side and to the axle on the left (driver's) side. so when the axle drops it will move right.
Last edited by 1 FMF; 09-11-2016 at 08:35 PM.
09-05-2016, 11:45 PM
#34
^ This is exactly right. I went through this process on my buddy's car when he lowered it, and it was just as described as above. He owns his own shop so we were able to observe the rightward tilt on the ground and the pivot to the left on a lift. An adjustable PHB allowed him to recenter the rear end to keep the driveline angle straight.
My car only has the HH mod with stock springs. Much more than that, you'll want to insure that your driveline is centered.
My car only has the HH mod with stock springs. Much more than that, you'll want to insure that your driveline is centered.
09-27-2016, 04:52 PM
#35
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also know when you change the ride height on the car having oem non-adjustable suspension that when the car lowers the rear end will move right horizontally because of the fixed length panhard bar. so not only will your pinion angle [u-joint phase angle] be off in the vertical sense which is all anyone ever measures... it will also be off in the horizontal sense.
raise the rear end off the ground and watch as the rear axle drops it also will moveleft thanks to the fixed length panhard bar that's connected to the axle on the right side and to the body on the left side.
when i replaced my rear axle and got the new drive shaft which was 42.5" u-joint to u-joint, if the rear axle is off center horizontally just 0.75" then tan-1(.75/42.5) = 1°. you want this phase angle, or difference in operating angles, between the front/rear ujoints to be less than 1° otherwise the faster the drive shaft spins the more vibration there will be.
centering the rear end is not done by eyeing it up so it looks good under the body, centered is so there is no horizontal angle difference between the front & rear ujoint, such that there's a straight line from the center of the crank pulley on the engine thru the transmission and down the drive shaft to the connection at the rear axle.
correction: the panhard bar connects to the body on the right (passenger) side and to the axle on the left (driver's) side. so when the axle drops it will move right.
raise the rear end off the ground and watch as the rear axle drops it also will move
when i replaced my rear axle and got the new drive shaft which was 42.5" u-joint to u-joint, if the rear axle is off center horizontally just 0.75" then tan-1(.75/42.5) = 1°. you want this phase angle, or difference in operating angles, between the front/rear ujoints to be less than 1° otherwise the faster the drive shaft spins the more vibration there will be.
centering the rear end is not done by eyeing it up so it looks good under the body, centered is so there is no horizontal angle difference between the front & rear ujoint, such that there's a straight line from the center of the crank pulley on the engine thru the transmission and down the drive shaft to the connection at the rear axle.
correction: the panhard bar connects to the body on the right (passenger) side and to the axle on the left (driver's) side. so when the axle drops it will move right.
03-04-2017, 09:16 PM
#36
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Hey I apologize about the huge delay, I haven't done measurements. But I've put on over 5000 km and I only drive it in the summer. The stagg shocks/struts are stiff that's for sure but not Overly uncomfortable. I prefer a stiffer ride. I had to roll rear fenders slightly and also installed UMI rear lower control arms and relocation brackets as well as on car adjustable panhard bar. No issues just don't cheap out on strut mounts. My mistake
03-04-2017, 09:21 PM
#37
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Hey I apologize about the huge delay, I haven't done measurements. But I've put on over 5000 km and I only drive it in the summer. The stagg shocks/struts are stiff that's for sure but not Overly uncomfortable. I prefer a stiffer ride. I had to roll rear fenders slightly and also installed UMI rear lower control arms and relocation brackets as well as on car adjustable panhard bar. No issues just don't cheap out on strut mounts. My mistake
03-05-2017, 03:44 AM
#38
Nice Just love the stance on your car. I ended up getting Koni STR.T shocks, as I got one hell of a deal on shipping from amazon ( to norway). the difference in shipping cost made the difference between the stagg and the konis very small. I did install the rear springs before I put the car on winter storage, and on stock shocks I can tell i'm going to like the Vogtlands, The higher springrate in the rear suits me perfectly
Just love the stance on your car. I ended up getting Koni STR.T shocks, as I got one hell of a deal on shipping from amazon ( to norway). the difference in shipping cost made the difference between the stagg and the konis very small. I did install the rear springs before I put the car on winter storage, and on stock shocks I can tell i'm going to like the Vogtlands, The higher springrate in the rear suits me perfectly 
