infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

So while I was installing my UMI torque arm I noticed a few odd things and figured some people might know the answer to these questions.

1. On the stock torque arm I noticed a rubber hose not going anywhere that had been cut off that was clamped to it (picture 1 below). Any idea what this is? It was routed over the trans but I couldn't tell whether it was going into it or somewhere else.

2. I noticed that there was a harness connector attached to the trans crossmember that looked like it had been cut (picture 2 below). Is this anything to be concerned with?

3. For some reason I had a hell of a time getting the front bolt out of the rear to remove the stock torque arm. It kept hitting the floorpan when I tried to get it up out of the hole (the rear bolt cleared fine). I eventually got it out, but since the UMI bolts are even longer, those are going to be even harder to get in. So my question is, on that front hole, can I put the bolt up through the bottom and put the nut on top?

farmington

iTrader: (14)

better with the bolt from the top. put jackstands under body and let rear end hang down. will give you more room

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

the rubber hose is the transmission vent tube.. just move it out of the way or tuck it around the lines on the drivers side of the tunnel

If the car runs fine and you just now noticed that cut connector I wouldnt worry about it.

98CayenneT/A

That hose connects to the top of your transmission. Its to direct fluid back farther if your trans is overfilled so the fluid does not ignite on the hot exhaust or engine block.

Where do you have your jack stands positioned?
If they are under your axles when you go to put the torque arm bolts in put them in from the top. To give you room to slide the bolts in you will need to unload your suspension a bit so take a jack (stock scissor jack) and at the rear lift point on the driver's side jack body up which in turn will unload your suspension. Lift high enough until you can slide the bolts in from the top. Should only need to unload suspension a few inches

98CayenneT/A

And to me that cut harness looks to be from the rear cats.
Do you have long tube headers with a un-catted y pipe?

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

No but that does make sense, the previous owner installed a wideband so he had changed over one of the rear O2s to route to that and just cut the other one.

Also I did put the jack stands on the frame so I can definitely drop the rear down some and try to get the bolt in the top if it needs to go that way, just figured I would check to see if there was any reason one of them couldn't go from the bottom.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't put it in from the bottom, because if for some reason the nut would come loose on top, the bolt would fall right out of the torque arm. It's put on through the top so it would at least stay in place, even if the nut comes off. I may have misunderstood what you meant, and if so, just ignore me lol.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Like mentioned make sure you install the bolts from the top. If a nut comes loose and falls off the bolt will fall right out causing damage to the torque arm. Use the jack under the rear end to rotate the rear end to get the new longer bolts in place. I know it's not easy, these installs are always a pain in the butt and being on the floor makes it seem even worse.

Good luck!

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

Just wanted to update and say thanks for the help and that I finished the install correctly with the bolts from the top. I couldn't get it lined up to install the TA with the rear hanging down so what I did was first with the rear jacked up level I installed it with the front bolt from the bottom up but only loosely tightened, then I dropped the rear down and swapped it out to the other direction. Having the other bolt in allowed things to be held in the correct position for the change when it was lowered.

Also I just have to compliment UMI on the excellent quality of this part. Before I installed it I was playing around with the adjustment rod to see how it worked so I figured I would need to do some adjustments to fix that after the install. However once I had it on I measured a -2 pinion angle with zero adjustments. The fact that it was hard to screw it up really points to the quality of the design imo.

Installing this part also fixed multiple problems I was having with the car. It mostly got rid of a shudder I was experiencing during hard braking. Most annoyingly, I had a clunking sound coming from the rear when the trans shifted to second. I think this is because 2nd gear might be going out, but in any case when it shifted I think what was happening was that the trans was sending a vibration down the torque arm and into the rear. Moving it off the trans (I installed the UMI crossmember as well) took care of that. The car feels a lot more stable during hard launches, and it's simply quite apparent how much more well controlled the rear end is with the upgraded arm vs the stock flimsy one.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Glad it worked great for you and thanks for the comments, that is always appreciated!

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

Glad it worked out and fixed the problem.

Yeah the torque arm ended up fixing all my issues too and I wished I had done that first, instead of last on the rear suspension. But the car feels much better all done, so it was a win win lol