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Removing stock torque arm

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Old 10-05-2016, 08:00 PM
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Default Removing stock torque arm

Ive done some searching and havent had much luck, gonna install a mwc torque arm with relo crossmember. My question is: what is the safest way to get the stock one off? Rear end loaded/unloaded? Unhook the front or back first? Never messed with a torque arm before so just lookin for some insight. Thanks
Old 10-05-2016, 08:21 PM
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I took the rear bolts off first. had to let the rear hang down a bit to pull them from the top. Install was pretty straight forward
Old 10-05-2016, 08:52 PM
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take bolts out of rear, let the rear end down off the jack (jackstands under the car!) and take a deadblow and knock the rear to the side to get it off the rear end and then pull it out of the bushing up front.
Old 10-05-2016, 10:11 PM
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If you have access to a lift and transmission jack it's insanely quick and easy, if not the above methods are perfect for the "do it at home guys"
Old 10-06-2016, 02:42 PM
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Gonna try to tackle this tomorrow probably, thanks for the insight guys.
Old 10-06-2016, 06:22 PM
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I love the red underneath the black z28.
Old 10-06-2016, 06:23 PM
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Sets it off
Attached Thumbnails Removing stock torque arm-photo258.jpg  
Old 10-06-2016, 11:30 PM
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Gotta subtract coolness points for what look like decarbon shocks still on that car
Old 10-07-2016, 07:32 AM
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Brand new koni str.t and eibach pro springs
Old 10-07-2016, 07:33 AM
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Rust is the killler where I'm from. If your car is put on the road before the end of may, you're gonna have it . Still for an 18 year old car , this is actually pretty good around here
Old 10-07-2016, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 99SSJarhead
Gotta subtract coolness points for what look like decarbon shocks still on that car
Only if they were decarbons. Then it would've been +5 for all the red shiny bits and -10 for the decarbons, but they look like STR.t shocks so +2 for a grand total of +7 coolness points
Old 10-07-2016, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Dennis5374
Sets it off
Good choice in parts

As for the original question, I agree with some of the above suggestions. Put the car on stands and the rear on a jack so it can be unloaded, but not totally free hanging. Take the rear bolts loose first and you can slide the arm out of the front mount. Then remove the mount from the tailshaft of the trans. Seems to be the easiest way I've found to do it. Either way you approach it, don't do it with the rear end loaded
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Old 10-07-2016, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Dennis5374
Rust is the killler where I'm from. If your car is put on the road before the end of may, you're gonna have it . Still for an 18 year old car , this is actually pretty good around here
Where are you from?

Northeast rust is brutal. I have a low mile car that has spent most of it's life as a fair weather cruiser. Paint and interior are immaculate. First time I got it on a lift was very disappointing. Everything that can rust has rust on it. Especially the rear, yikes. And anything aluminum under the hood is oxidized.
Old 10-07-2016, 01:14 PM
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Northern ny, I live in a little town called brasher falls . About 1:45 south of Montreal Quebec lol
Old 10-07-2016, 01:17 PM
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Crazy enough I bought a 1985 Camaro roller that has spent most of its life in Virginia and has literally no rust
Old 10-07-2016, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BMR Sales2
Good choice in parts
Yes, the UMI control arms are panhard hard are pretty nice aren't they
Old 10-07-2016, 03:54 PM
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There's a mix and match of both lol , never had a problem or preference with either as they do virtually the same thing
Old 10-07-2016, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by UMI Performance
Yes, the UMI control arms are panhard hard are pretty nice aren't they
Aaahhh..... didn't look closely at the adjusters

Looks like our torque arm, sway bar and k member though.

Still, better than seeing chinese knock-offs under the car
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