flyboy129

If this thread needs to be moved to the axle section, feel free to do so. I am posting this question since the handling gurus are often here.

Basically, I have just swapped my built 6 speed into my new ride along with the Tick MC.

Wow, what a difference!

However, the new MC is definitely sending more shock to the rear.

I am trying to baby it, but the MC is releasing all or nothing.

Not that I'm complaining. I love it!

The rear is fine now, but since I want to drive more aggressively and spirited, I am weighing options.

I know 9" axles have more parasitic loss and the 60s are way heavier. I am looking at the 8.8 from hawks.

Yeah, I know about the price point, but for what I plan (350 to the ground and more handling mods), the weight similarities, and price, I feel it would be the best bang for the buck.

I'm not buying anything right now, just doing research.

So, for those who road course, are hard into the curves, or like me, run specific roads for thrills, what are you using?
What are your likes and dislikes?

If you still run a stocker, chime in as well:
How many miles?
How aggressive do you run?
Any issues that you have had?
Mods to keep the toothpick alive?

Thanks to all!

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

With just 350rwhp the 10 bolt should be fine. Power doesn't kill 10 bolts, hard launches with slicks do. I know guys who have 450+rwhp and run 10 bolts.

- 92,xxx miles
- Autocross/canyon carving on a 315 R888 square setup
- No rear end issues at all (may want to change the diff, one wheel peeling in the wet)
- Just installed new bearings and fluid but otherwise 10 bolt is stock

Chris Paveglio

iTrader: (2)

I AX regularly on my GM stock axles. I've gone through 2, soon to be 3, diffs (stock, eaton, and auburn, will replace with another auburn i think). 57k miles, but both axles have been replaced due to bearing wear, so maybe they have ~10k miles? I AX on 315 Hoosier A6/7, street drive on Bridgestones. At AX I am 10/10ths, on the road of course not. I never dump clutch, even at AX I launch "normally" but agressively, ie slip it appropriately. Never broken an axle or diff.

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

I have zero fiscal responsibility when it comes to Camaro parts. Running a MWC FAB9 with their watts link. I'd say run yours till it blows up I know plenty have stretched life from their 10-bolt, but when mine started making a ton of racket I pulled it and upgraded.

If you want to upgrade and have the $$ go for it, the piece of mind was worth it for me. Now maybe eventually I'll buy some power making mods.

FIVEPOINT7

iTrader: (2)

Stock here.
Full blown wheel to wheel road racing, we run this thing as hard as we possibly can.
400hp
T56
150ish thousand miles, gears were swapped at one point for a ratio change, nothing else. Just regular fluid changes is all we do, and it lives fine. Hour and a half of ***** to the wall races, and we are prepping for a 13 hour enduro. I don't forsee any issues from the rear. The brakes take the biggest blow.

UMI Tech

We run the stock axle in the UMI '99 Camaro. It has an Auburn Road Race posi, a good girdle cover to prevent cap breakage and always good fluid. We are working on a Moser axle upgrade simply because it's time and we've been doing a lot of road racing on the stock axles.

Agree on the launch. Slicks seem to kill these whereas 200 TW auto-x tires with some slippage let them live.

ramey

flyboy129

Thanks for all of the replies.

The 10 bolt in my old ride has only had wheel bearings and fluid changes. No issues at 201K when it was totalled. The axle is still good. Just a 3 channel.

I do have the ratech stuff I bought for it when I did the wheel bearings, but never installed. It was making the noise, but I didn't know what to expect till I tore into it. It also still has the TA girdle.

I will swap those over and do a rebuild when needed. I may pick me up an extra 4 channel rear and true trac, build with my parts, and have waiting.

matt1289

What is a recommend diff for autox/daily driver? "Auburn Road Race posi" or True Trac or other?

flyboy129

I can't vouch for the true trac in a f body, but I did one in the 44 front on my old Dodge W350 and love it. You don't even know it's there. Steers great due to its design.

No additive needed due to the helical gear design. Lasts as long (probably longer in the case of the 10 bolt) as the axle will.

Yeah, if you lift a wheel, it'll lose traction. But, then again, who purposely lifts a wheel autocrossing or DDing?

With that positive experience, I won't choose anything else when it is time to build the axle for my T/A.

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

A stock 10 bolt will hold up fine. You will most likely end up with a peg-legger before you break something. These stock Auburns don't last long.

But if you're planning on putting some good power to the ground and launching on sticky tires, get a good rear diff now and save yourself the headache.

I'm still building my sons car and it has all UMI, front to rear and is getting a Moser 12 bolt or 9". I haven't decided yet. It a 3 event car. AX, Road race, drag race. It will be heavier than a stock for AX and RR, but he'll be able to launch at 5k rpm and not worry about it.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I've got almost 190K on the body, original axles, 10-bolt rear, OEM-type 3.73 gears, and an Eaton clutch-based diff. A couple of years ago I upgraded to the TA cover, but I have no proof that it helps. I pick a tire compound and clutch disc(s) which will not severely shock the rear end.

flyboy129

Ok. My final question is:

Would you weld the tubes to the housing to keep any housing flex down during hard corners, or not even bother?

I don't plan on doing 1/4 mile launches regularly. Definitely don't do any sticky tire burnouts, then launch. I've never taken it to a strip. When I have had some fun, I've always allowed the car to begin to roll before letting the rear have it.

I also can't prove the TA cover helps, but I know it can't hurt. My old one had it and it will be swapped to this one. I believe it is supposed to help with bearing 'walk' from hard turns, which is what this axle will be seeing.

My only concern is the curves and performance shifting.

If the hard shifts begin to cause issues, I'll find a spare 10 bolt, install the ratech pinion spacer/crush sleeve eliminator, and build it up with the true trac.

If I have problems after that, I'll swap to an 8.8 housing, then build it with a solid spacer, 3.55s and a true trac.

Thanks to all who have chimed in

2ToeRacing

iTrader: (5)

What carrier comes stock in our cars 01 camaro ss??

99SSJarhead

iTrader: (2)

Honestly, I'd shoot a PM or a call to Sam Strano. He's been tracking 4th gens in SCCA races for some time and can likely give you an idea of just how well the 10 bolt held up over the years

FIVEPOINT7

iTrader: (2)

I wanna say the SS and WS6s should have the torsen rear. 3.23 Auto and 3.42 Manual.

FIVEPOINT7

iTrader: (2)

I did it to mine, but I don't know if it really helped or not. For the 20 minutes it took, I said why not, can't hurt.