finished up front viking install, with torque specs
11-07-2016, 08:20 AM
#1
finished up front viking install, with torque specs 2000 camaro has been apart due to the following for awhile
mwc fab 9 and full mwc rear suspension
4 viking true coilovers
kore 3 c6 floating caliper front and rears
lonnies doubles
poly sway bar bushing and end links, no money for strano bars
new moog upper ball joints and strut mounts (as many have said, opt for the moog mounts. quality appeared good, had no issue on drivers side. however, one of the bolt holes on the pass side i presume is a hair off. i just couldn't get the bolt int without cross threading due to it being crooked. so i had to drill out the inside of that whole on the a arm a bit, and on the body and was able to get it on now since the bolt wasn't crooked anymore. also id recommend torqueing these bolts on first before trying to do it on the car. 'mine had got real tight before the bolt began sticking out the other side of the mount due to rubber and grease being in there.)
as many have said, the install instructions are limited on the vikings just basic instructions and not really platform specific so if anybody has any questions on the fronts just let me know. haven't done the clevis rear yet since my rear still isn't here. a word to the wise about poly bushings, i see a few people say that when you do the poly sway bar frame bushings its easier to do them first before you remove the end links. I'm gonna say hell no. i first tried to do one at a time after end link removal, so i left one side fully torqued on the frame while i messed with the other side. the clamp was about 1/8 to 3/16 crooked once i hand tightend the one bolt and couldn't get the other bolt in without it wanting to cross thread. so after loosening the other sway bar bushing as much as i could without removing it,i pushed as hard as i could and moved it a hair to the side with the poly mount on it, and was finally able to get the bolt on with out cross threading. barely. then repeated for the other side and tightened them up. but i did a final torque on them, and then had to re loosen because the bar was crooked and couldn't install end links. so be sure to leave them half loose until end links are on.
as far as vikings go, thread them all the way to the bottom and with a little maneuvering they fit good. i used rubber upper mounts, and when i called viking, they said a dust boot is unnecessary because of how there shocks are sealed, and a bump stop is recommended but not necessary. in order to put a bump stop over the shaft, i would have had to loosen the top bolt on the strut and i just didn't want to do that. so all i put on top of the viking was the rubber strut mount, and the rubber insulator.
any questions holler.
o and i had to do a lot of thread hopping for these torque specs so ill throw these in too. all in ft lbs.
upper control arm bushings 72
upper strut mount nut, the one that secures the mount and isolator to the strut 15
upper ball joint castle nut 39
the 13 and 15 mm lower strut nut and bolts 48
upper strut mount nuts 37
upper strut mount bolts 32
wheel hub 63
sway bar end links, till they begin to squish, or if your technical 17
brake hose to caliper , this one is weird because gm says 32 which seems high, but my conversion bracket hardware says 14. which is what i did. those threads are tiny to be doing 32 i think. maybe my 32 number i got is wrong
brake master cylinder 21
caliper bracket to spindle. this one is also weird. gm says 75, but my instructions from brackets said 125. others have also said that the 75 is for new calipers, and to do a little less if the calipers are old due to threads being weak from heat. i did 105 since mine were new. again this is for the big brake kit bracket to caliper bracket, not caliper bracket to spindle.
mwc fab 9 and full mwc rear suspension
4 viking true coilovers
kore 3 c6 floating caliper front and rears
lonnies doubles
poly sway bar bushing and end links, no money for strano bars
new moog upper ball joints and strut mounts (as many have said, opt for the moog mounts. quality appeared good, had no issue on drivers side. however, one of the bolt holes on the pass side i presume is a hair off. i just couldn't get the bolt int without cross threading due to it being crooked. so i had to drill out the inside of that whole on the a arm a bit, and on the body and was able to get it on now since the bolt wasn't crooked anymore. also id recommend torqueing these bolts on first before trying to do it on the car. 'mine had got real tight before the bolt began sticking out the other side of the mount due to rubber and grease being in there.)
as many have said, the install instructions are limited on the vikings just basic instructions and not really platform specific so if anybody has any questions on the fronts just let me know. haven't done the clevis rear yet since my rear still isn't here. a word to the wise about poly bushings, i see a few people say that when you do the poly sway bar frame bushings its easier to do them first before you remove the end links. I'm gonna say hell no. i first tried to do one at a time after end link removal, so i left one side fully torqued on the frame while i messed with the other side. the clamp was about 1/8 to 3/16 crooked once i hand tightend the one bolt and couldn't get the other bolt in without it wanting to cross thread. so after loosening the other sway bar bushing as much as i could without removing it,i pushed as hard as i could and moved it a hair to the side with the poly mount on it, and was finally able to get the bolt on with out cross threading. barely. then repeated for the other side and tightened them up. but i did a final torque on them, and then had to re loosen because the bar was crooked and couldn't install end links. so be sure to leave them half loose until end links are on.
as far as vikings go, thread them all the way to the bottom and with a little maneuvering they fit good. i used rubber upper mounts, and when i called viking, they said a dust boot is unnecessary because of how there shocks are sealed, and a bump stop is recommended but not necessary. in order to put a bump stop over the shaft, i would have had to loosen the top bolt on the strut and i just didn't want to do that. so all i put on top of the viking was the rubber strut mount, and the rubber insulator.
any questions holler.
o and i had to do a lot of thread hopping for these torque specs so ill throw these in too. all in ft lbs.
upper control arm bushings 72
upper strut mount nut, the one that secures the mount and isolator to the strut 15
upper ball joint castle nut 39
the 13 and 15 mm lower strut nut and bolts 48
upper strut mount nuts 37
upper strut mount bolts 32
wheel hub 63
sway bar end links, till they begin to squish, or if your technical 17
brake hose to caliper , this one is weird because gm says 32 which seems high, but my conversion bracket hardware says 14. which is what i did. those threads are tiny to be doing 32 i think. maybe my 32 number i got is wrong
brake master cylinder 21
caliper bracket to spindle. this one is also weird. gm says 75, but my instructions from brackets said 125. others have also said that the 75 is for new calipers, and to do a little less if the calipers are old due to threads being weak from heat. i did 105 since mine were new. again this is for the big brake kit bracket to caliper bracket, not caliper bracket to spindle.
Last edited by Floorman279; 11-07-2016 at 08:51 AM.
02-24-2017, 04:49 PM
#2
On The Tree
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Hey Floorman279,
I came across this post researching. I installed 3 of my 4 Viking coilovers last weekend, and I'm going to take a swing at the driver side front tomorrow. I'm pretty confident with all aspects (because it should be the exact same as the front passenger I have already completed) besides removing the brake master cylinder to get to the torx bolts. I'm unfamiliar with this task... will brake fluid spill out when I remove the two bolts that fasten the master cylinder to the brake booster? Did you have to remove the lines coming out of the master cylinder to get at the torx bolts, or did were you able to move the assembly enough after unbolting it from the brake booster? You said for anyone to reach out with questions so I'm taking you up on that offer! Please let me know!
I came across this post researching. I installed 3 of my 4 Viking coilovers last weekend, and I'm going to take a swing at the driver side front tomorrow. I'm pretty confident with all aspects (because it should be the exact same as the front passenger I have already completed) besides removing the brake master cylinder to get to the torx bolts. I'm unfamiliar with this task... will brake fluid spill out when I remove the two bolts that fasten the master cylinder to the brake booster? Did you have to remove the lines coming out of the master cylinder to get at the torx bolts, or did were you able to move the assembly enough after unbolting it from the brake booster? You said for anyone to reach out with questions so I'm taking you up on that offer! Please let me know!
02-24-2017, 08:44 PM
#3
Brake fluid will not leak out when you remove the master cylinder via the two bolts.
You should not have to remove the brake lines in order to get to the torx bolts.
If you do remove the brake lines from the master cylinder, brake fluid will leak out.
You should not have to remove the brake lines in order to get to the torx bolts.
If you do remove the brake lines from the master cylinder, brake fluid will leak out.