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Is the C5 rotor really worth it? It's a street car. And I like my ZR1 wheels. Hasn't been on a drag strip in years and I want the best all around set up. I did put new OEM front calipers on before I parked it a couple years ago (Had been ground down to clear pro stars) Brembo blanks don't seem to be readily available anymore? Hawk HPS pads still the go to for street use? I am way out of touch with this stuff. (Baby, new house and marriage took over for a bit)
I believe a C5 rotor and relocation bracket will fit under a 17" ZR1 wheel. It's the C6's that require an 18" rims and CTS-V Brembo's require 18"s and a lot of backspacing, even though with some grinding and spacers, someone has fit them under ZR1's before.
Unless you're doing multiple hard stops from triple digit speeds, most of the time a set of blanks and aggressive pads will be more then enough for street use. I'd recommend Hawk HPS or the more aggressive HP+ if you don't mind the noise and a bit of dust.
Lots of options. There actual better brakes, like with 4 piston calipers that fit under 17" wheels. I have a 12.8" kit with 4 piston calipers, stainless lines, and rotors for $999. It fits C5Z wheels by a mile. I do need some spacer on '98 ZR1 style SS wheels, but the later 10 spokes would need less (maybe none, haven't actually tried that wheel).
We can also do a nice set of rotors and pads, maybe SS lines too. Trouble is in the end, the 2 piston caliper is a design that twists (not open so much as on the vertical axis), which is where the angled pad wear comes from. And that funny angle shows you that you are not maximizing the brakes. And all 2 piston stuff does it, LS1, C5 doesn't matter.
I don't know that a 4 piston set up would really work in this instance. I guess it would depend on how much of a spacer it would need. Any more than a 5/16 and it sticks out to far for my taste. I do have stainless lines. I have hawk HPS pads already too but I think I glazed them up chasing a brake issue (bad check valve at the booster) I'll have to see if they're saveable when I pull it apart. Which rotor would you recommend on your site Sam? And stick with the stock size or going with the C5?
Definitely more than 5/16". But I look at my car with the spacer I run, which is more than is required, with the 5 spoke wheels and it sure doesn't stick out at all.
I don't know that a 4 piston set up would really work in this instance. I guess it would depend on how much of a spacer it would need. Any more than a 5/16 and it sticks out to far for my taste. I do have stainless lines. I have hawk HPS pads already too but I think I glazed them up chasing a brake issue (bad check valve at the booster) I'll have to see if they're saveable when I pull it apart. Which rotor would you recommend on your site Sam? And stick with the stock size or going with the C5?
Depends on what you want from it, what you want to spend and how you drive. I just swapped on some DBA's in place of the Stoptech that were there as with high heat there wasn't enough mass for their metalurgy. Had issues I don't have with the Best rotors (which do cost a bit more). I went DBA on my car simply because the car sees a lot of track time and they are some 3 pounds more each, all of which is a better heat sink.
Depends on what you want from it, what you want to spend and how you drive. I just swapped on some DBA's in place of the Stoptech that were there as with high heat there wasn't enough mass for their metalurgy. Had issues I don't have with the Best rotors (which do cost a bit more). I went DBA on my car simply because the car sees a lot of track time and they are some 3 pounds more each, all of which is a better heat sink.
I don't road race the car it's just a pleasure vehicle. However with it being a "pleasure vehicle" it sees 100+ mph now and again and I want it to stop as it should for a car that can see those speeds. But 95% of my driving is normal day to day stuff. I only put maybe 1500 miles a year on it. Your brace looks like it would help some with pedal feel (doesn't feel solid to me) just not sure I could get it to work with my stb which I may pull off anyways. I took the abs off the car a few yrs ago as well so I am conscious of that in a panic stop situation so I don't lock them up so the more bite the better.
All understood. The rub is with the thing I hear a lot from folks looking for performance, then follow it up with "I don't race the car". I get that too, except the car has no idea where it is, and stopping the car from a high speed involves the very same set of physics.
I mean the car does not weigh less on the street. The calipers don't twist less, etc. So it's a cost/benefit analysis. I understand that, but that has to be how to think of it.
I think a MC brace and some new pads with maybe more bite (we have them) could well suit your needs. But the way brakes work is always a system and a large issue with the soft pedal is the firewall flex, but also the way the calipers move and twist too. The result is the sum of the parts.
All understood. The rub is with the thing I hear a lot from folks looking for performance, then follow it up with "I don't race the car". I get that too, except the car has no idea where it is, and stopping the car from a high speed involves the very same set of physics.
I mean the car does not weigh less on the street. The calipers don't twist less, etc. So it's a cost/benefit analysis. I understand that, but that has to be how to think of it.
I think a MC brace and some new pads with maybe more bite (we have them) could well suit your needs. But the way brakes work is always a system and a large issue with the soft pedal is the firewall flex, but also the way the calipers move and twist too. The result is the sum of the parts.
My intent was more it won't be having sustained time periods of high heat and stress like a race car would. Just a short blast now and then. Which of your rotors would you recommend? Again stock size or C5? Hawk HPS pad a good street pad or do you prefer another? I'll probably add the brace too. Keep it simple.
Stock is certainly cheaper and if you were to go C5, then I'd definitely do the extra bit to the 4 piston setup. Very little more in the sum total for way better caliper design.
But if you are wanting to stay with a 2 piston, then you are best off IMHO with a better pad with more bite, and a brace. If you need rotors we can do those too, but they won't offer any performance per se to the deal.
Heres my setup. They are great brakes and offer a lot of pad options. Stock corvette c7 calipers and rotors. The rotor hub bore and offset is correct for the ls1 fbody. Only thing needed was to bore hub mounting holes to 14mm/9/16'' to accept the new brembo calipers - also required on other setups. Cadillac ats 4 piston brembos are identical to the base JL9 calipers on the c7 corvette and can be found cheap new stock. I would love to see someone do the c7 z51 calipers with the 345mm rotor and believe this will fit. They are the same 4 piston brembos with longer mounting ears and could be found used for a decent price.
- For my stock zr1s I am running the arp studs with a 12mm/.5'' spacer and there is plenty of clearance.
I can only assume with the clearance that any 17'' wheel with .5'' more backspacing than zr1s will fit right up. These brakes perform great on the street and road course. They are matching parts - calipers and rotors. No need for washers or hub boring.
Sam, you were saying the Stoptech rotors aren't as good as the DBA or Best Brakes? How much of an upgrade in cost are the DBAs or Best brakes over the 999 price?
That's definitely interesting. That's the same caliper as the 5th gen camaro isn't it?
No. These are new style cadillac ATS brembo calipers which are identical to the 2014+ c7 jl9 base brakes - 320mm. Yes they are only 1/2-3/4'' bigger than ls1 rotors... but the total combined piston area and the pad coverage trumps stock ls1 brakes. Easiest install and best price for factory GM brembo parts on a big brake kit, and they clear 17'' wheels with ease. Factory rubber lines work great. I spent a little extra on acdelco rotors which are a genuine brembo part because I plan on them getting toasty, but c7 rotors can be had from centric for a good price.
Boosted do you have an estimate what everything cost you in total?
I bought everything new some time last year but it went like this...
100/side for acdelco brembo calipers
60/side for rotors
14mm grade 10.9caliper mounting bolts. I believe they are 14mmx1.5x40mm- $5 from fastenal
Bosche blue be1001 pads $25
Ac delco caliper pin kit - $19
If needed for stock zr1s - $50-60 for arp studs and 1/2'' 5x4.75 spacers
Also replaced stock rubber lines for 10/side
With some shopping around, I dont see why it cant be done with new parts for under $400-450
Last edited by Boosted53F; 03-15-2017 at 06:36 PM.
Calipers - 1722586/87 are the correct calipers. Looks like they went up a little in price. Rock still has a decent buy.
Rotors - I went with acdelco c7 rotors. They are oem brembo. The ats rotors will not work. From what I remember the hub bore and more importantly bolt pattern is different.
02-26-2017, 04:43 PM
Stock SS wheels. Best brakes? 
