sherbin18

I have a 2002 Firebird WS6 with 49k miles. The ride is alright except the rear left seems to bottoming. I figured that I needed new shocks. The car is a driver (not my daily driver) but I don't want to race it or show it -- so originals are not a requirement (besides which I can't find them).

I was thinking of the Bilsteins.

Any suggestions?

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

There really isn't a "best shock", only the shock that suits your needs best.

Personally, I think the Bilsteins offer the best combination of ride comfort with improved handling, and are reasonably priced. Koni STR.Ts are similarly priced, are a little more biased toward the handling side - a little stiffer and firmer. Koni SA's are nearly twice the price, but are adjustable for rebound and offer the option of lowering the car a bit in the front. They're recognized as the best handling stock-style shock available. From there you go way up the scale to coilovers and custom shocks that offer lots of optionality but are very expensive.

UMI Tech

If simply wanting to replace shocks with something better, the best choice is to order Koni's from Sam Strano at stranoparts.com

While you're there, he carries the full UMI line should you desire any further upgrades.

ramey

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

Billsteins or koni str.t for a street car / daily

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

No need to spend money on shocks that you don't need, best bet is go to your local auto parts stores and see what they offer for your application. Opinions will always vary on shocks and what one person likes you may not.

If you are interested in Bilstein we have them available with free shipping.
Link To Shocks

sherbin18

I spoke with Sam Strano. His very helpful advice was to get the Koni Str.t shocks. I ordered them from him and will be installing them next week.

Thanks Sam for your patience and sage advice.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Can't go wrong with Sam. You won't be disappointed!

DANOZ28

iTrader: (1)

may i ask why no luv for QA1 shocks? whats wrong with them?

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

They had inconsistency issues and were prone to leaking.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

For a daily driver car, can't go wrong with the Koni Str.T. I have them on my daily driver and love the ride. They will work with stock springs, or lowering springs. They pair really well with the rates of our springs. My lowered car doesn't ride like a lowered car.

http://bmrsuspension.com/?page=produ...508&superpro=0

JD_AMG

Not gas charged, poor design, poor performance for anything but drag racing.

sherbin18

I installed the Konis on Thursday and the effect was noticeable. The ride is much better. I also replaced the shock bumps which were totally gone - had to cut off a piece on the aluminum billet that fit under the bump. It was a piece of cake.

Now I have to decide WHEN to replace the fronts. Not if, when.

Thanks for the advice received and to Sam for the recommendation and quick shipping.

BTW, as expected, the driver side shock, which was allowing the bottoming, was totally gone.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

I'm suprised none of the experts explained that bottoming out has nothing to do with the shock.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

^ because it has everything to do with the shock. The shock is what restricts and controls movement of the spring. A weak spring will compound this issue and usually cause shock failure. But a bad or weak shock will allow for excess movement and cause issues such as he reported.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Aluminum spacer on SS's and WS6's is simply bolted on between the stop and the body, and just removes without modification or cutting. There is a lip on some cars that needs trimmed for aftermarket stops if not using that aluminum spacer.

As for the shocks, glad they helped (not that I'm surprised, stock stuff kind of sucks).

As for "bottoming out". This is a term used generically like Mack Truck and a number of things can happen. Most commonly the shocks are junk, and the car hits things really hard and is not well damped resulting in a slam. This is worse still with bumpstops that are junk or shot, or just not there. But it should be noted that bump stops aren't STOPS in the rock hard way of thinking. They can be different levels of stiff depending on what type you have. I like more progressive type myself. So when I hear "my car is bottoming out". I always know I'm in for a good time trying to figure out what the person means by that. Because it's really rare the car is actually, truly bottoming out the suspension. That can only happen if there are no stops period.

sherbin18

This what my bump stop looked like before replacing. It now looks "like" a bump stop should.

I cut off the piece which juts out of the aluminum billet and attached the new bump stop with the billet to the bracket.

Then I installed the Koni Streets (ok, not spelled that way). Took it for an extended "city" ride today, especially over the spot I experienced the "bottoming out."

Worked out GREAT.

Thanks Sam!

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Uh, yeah. So go back in and just remove the aluminum part and bolt the new stop directly to the body.

sherbin18

I don't understand what the difference would be. It's about 3/16" difference and doesn't modify the bracket. The ride is totally better and no trace of what I was experiencing before. If \the bump stop comes into play now, there's a more serious problem.

Not being difficult, I just fail to understand. In my prior life we used to say if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Trust me.

But if you need more reason. You gain suspension travel and it usually rides better.

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

Just listen to Sam, he kinda knows a little bit about this stuff