Does Nut come with GM # 10164163 Camber Bolt for Front Lower Control Arm?
#1
Does Nut come with GM # 10164163 Camber Bolt for Front Lower Control Arm?
Hi everyone. I just got done spending two hours removing a seized rear camber bolt on the passenger front lower control arm in my 95 Camaro. I did a quick search and it looks like the GM part number for the bolt is 10164163. However, all of the diagram pictures I've seen for the part number doesn't show a nut. Does that nut come with the bolt if I order part number 10164163? I mangled mine up pretty bad. If someone could let me know asap I'd appreciate it. Trying to get this ordered tonight. Thanks!
#5
If you do go this route and find that the bolt still isn't loose once it's flush with the slot, take a 1/4" extension that you're willing to damage and use it as a punch. It's the perfect size and fits inside the bushing sleeve to allow you to beat the bolt through. A regular punch wasn't working for me since the surface area on the bottom of the bolt is so small and the punch just slides off. A 1/4" extension will sort of "cup" the end of the bolt so it works perfectly.
Sorry if this doesn't sound like any kind of special solution. There are really only two options. Cut it out or pound it out. You could try applying heat with a torch however that would probably be a fire hazard since there is a rubber bushing that can catch fire.
#6
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (9)
I used a lot of PB Blaster and let it soak overnight. Then, I pounded the bottom of the bolt with the nut on so I would have more surface area to hit. I didn't want the hammer to slide off or for me to miss and continue to smack the subframe bracket for the control arm. Unfortunately, that's why the nut is mangled. I used a 4lb hammer off and on for about two hours. My arm was prettly tired after that. Obviously, I had to remove the nut once the end of the bolt was almost flush with the slot in the bracket.
If you do go this route and find that the bolt still isn't loose once it's flush with the slot, take a 1/4" extension that you're willing to damage and use it as a punch. It's the perfect size and fits inside the bushing sleeve to allow you to beat the bolt through. A regular punch wasn't working for me since the surface area on the bottom of the bolt is so small and the punch just slides off. A 1/4" extension will sort of "cup" the end of the bolt so it works perfectly.
Sorry if this doesn't sound like any kind of special solution. There are really only two options. Cut it out or pound it out. You could try applying heat with a torch however that would probably be a fire hazard since there is a rubber bushing that can catch fire.
If you do go this route and find that the bolt still isn't loose once it's flush with the slot, take a 1/4" extension that you're willing to damage and use it as a punch. It's the perfect size and fits inside the bushing sleeve to allow you to beat the bolt through. A regular punch wasn't working for me since the surface area on the bottom of the bolt is so small and the punch just slides off. A 1/4" extension will sort of "cup" the end of the bolt so it works perfectly.
Sorry if this doesn't sound like any kind of special solution. There are really only two options. Cut it out or pound it out. You could try applying heat with a torch however that would probably be a fire hazard since there is a rubber bushing that can catch fire.
#7
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (9)
It helps if I use my strength lol and this
Best $130 I spent 4 years ago. All 4 nuts came off and the front bolts slid out after some tapping with the deadblow, the rear bolts were a bit trickier as I had to rock the a arms back and forth until they move over far enough to slide the rear bolts out.
Best $130 I spent 4 years ago. All 4 nuts came off and the front bolts slid out after some tapping with the deadblow, the rear bolts were a bit trickier as I had to rock the a arms back and forth until they move over far enough to slide the rear bolts out.
Last edited by King Nothing; 03-24-2017 at 01:21 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
My driver's side rear bolt will not budge. Probably will have to cut it out. I tried rocking the a arm but the bushing is so trashed that it does nothing to the bolt. Tried heating it, but decided to stop once the bushing started smoking. I just wish there was enough room in there to use the 4' cutoff wheel.
The nut came off with no issue BTW.
The nut came off with no issue BTW.
#9
It helps if I use my strength lol and this
Best $130 I spent 4 years ago. All 4 nuts came off and the front bolts slid out after some tapping with the deadblow, the rear bolts were a bit trickier as I had to rock the a arms back and forth until they move over far enough to slide the rear bolts out.
Best $130 I spent 4 years ago. All 4 nuts came off and the front bolts slid out after some tapping with the deadblow, the rear bolts were a bit trickier as I had to rock the a arms back and forth until they move over far enough to slide the rear bolts out.
#10
My driver's side rear bolt will not budge. Probably will have to cut it out. I tried rocking the a arm but the bushing is so trashed that it does nothing to the bolt. Tried heating it, but decided to stop once the bushing started smoking. I just wish there was enough room in there to use the 4' cutoff wheel.
The nut came off with no issue BTW.
The nut came off with no issue BTW.
#11
My driver's side rear bolt will not budge. Probably will have to cut it out. I tried rocking the a arm but the bushing is so trashed that it does nothing to the bolt. Tried heating it, but decided to stop once the bushing started smoking. I just wish there was enough room in there to use the 4' cutoff wheel.
The nut came off with no issue BTW.
The nut came off with no issue BTW.
#12
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (9)
Sorry, I should have mentioned in my post that I had no issue loosening the nut. What I meant is I threaded the nut on just a couple threads so I had more surface area to pound on. Anyway, it sounds like you were luckier than me. My bolt was "fused" to the bushing metal sleeve. The nut was easy for me. I just used a rachet and breaker bar. I'm glad that you got it apart.
#13
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
Yeah, using heat is sketchy since those bushings can catch fire with a torch. PB Blaster (not WD40 or other penetrants but actual PB Blaster) can be your best friend in these situations as long as you allow it to soak overnight. That stuff is amazing but you'll still need to use some muscle pounding away at it with a heavy hammer if it's fused to the sleeve inside the bushing like mine. Only other option is a reciprocating electric saw with a diamond blade since it's a very hard bolt. There's a how-to thread on here somewhere. Let me see if I can find it.
#16
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
Yeah, using heat is sketchy since those bushings can catch fire with a torch. PB Blaster (not WD40 or other penetrants but actual PB Blaster) can be your best friend in these situations as long as you allow it to soak overnight. That stuff is amazing but you'll still need to use some muscle pounding away at it with a heavy hammer if it's fused to the sleeve inside the bushing like mine. Only other option is a reciprocating electric saw with a diamond blade since it's a very hard bolt. There's a how-to thread on here somewhere. Let me see if I can find it.
Should have just started there. Took about 15 minutes.
#17
Glad to see you finally got it out