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Relocating Upper Panhard Rod

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Old 07-26-2017, 07:17 AM
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Default Relocating Upper Panhard Rod

So my exhaust is resting on the upper panhard brace in my 95 TA. Didn't use to.. but it is now. Anyways I saw that UMI makes a panhard relocation kit. There's four of them on the site. Basically I want to do this:

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/...LmpwZw==/?ref=

1. I already have a panhard rod. Will it work with this kit? Or do I need to buy a new panhard rod that is compatible? My current panhard rod has rod ends similar to below. But I don't remember who the manufacturer is.

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=112

2. Is this all I need?

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=289


Sorry for link overload. Easiest way for me to communicate. Also, I'm not stepping on any sponsors here. If anyone else makes a similar product, I'd be happy to see it. Just want to clear this thing.
Old 07-26-2017, 08:38 AM
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We offer a kit for this as well. It has clearance for up to a dual 3" exhaust or a single 4" all the way out the back. Our kit (as well as similar ones I'm sure) are compatible with any stock fitment panhard bar.
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...280&superpro=0
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Old 07-26-2017, 09:16 AM
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Cool beans. Thanks for the info.
Old 07-26-2017, 07:23 PM
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I haven't ran a panhard brace for yrs.

I moved my panhard bar up to the panhard brace hole to gain back some roll center balance after lowering the car.
Old 07-26-2017, 11:16 PM
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You have to watch how the PHB is mounted. The most basic kits drop only the right side of the brace and the PHB itself, putting them on a really big angle. That gets you more exhaust room to be sure, but it also causes the body to move a lot, lot more laterally as it moves up and down.

This is what a Watts link doesn't do at all. A level Panhard Bar is the way it moves the least while still having a PHB in place, so if you are looking to do drop the right side, you want to drop the left too and level it out.
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Old 07-27-2017, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
You have to watch how the PHB is mounted. The most basic kits drop only the right side of the brace and the PHB itself, putting them on a really big angle. That gets you more exhaust room to be sure, but it also causes the body to move a lot, lot more laterally as it moves up and down.

This is what a Watts link doesn't do at all. A level Panhard Bar is the way it moves the least while still having a PHB in place, so if you are looking to do drop the right side, you want to drop the left too and level it out.
to do that I would just need to add in the Panhard relocation bracket, correct?​​​ having trouble posting a link from my phone but it says it lowers the drivers side attachment a couple inches. I would think that would even out the changes being made on the passenger side.

​​​​​​​ I don't road race or autocross. Heck I barely drive the thing. Occasional weekend cruises and hitting the 1/4 maybe once or twice a year. Will it really make that significant of a difference? As the poster above said there's plenty of people not even running a Panhard brace. I'd rather not go that route because I'm sure it puts some strain on something somewhere else. If relocating the brace lower isn't going to cause premature failure in something else and won't make it dangerous to drive, I'm probably fine with it.

​​​​​​​edit* I noticed that the relocation kit states that it retains the correct geometry. I'm not sure how exactly since it's purpose is to quite literally change the geometry but maybe I'm not thinking about "geometry" correctly. Suspension is a fairly new endeavor for me

Last edited by nodnarb481; 07-27-2017 at 05:54 AM. Reason: added content
Old 07-27-2017, 08:42 AM
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You might consider Founders for the kit. They are a sponsor as well.

When considering the UMI kit and the BMR kit, there was a rubbing issue back in the day with the UMI kit - I own one.

BMR engineered their kit differently to account for the rubbing issue if the car is lowered. Don't know if UMI changed or upgraded the original version to account for that issue.

You have a PM explaining what I did to level the UMI panhard bar.

Since then I have removed the UMI panhard bar and the Jegs bracket.

I modified the stock upper panhard bracket to gain additional clearance for the exhaust (American racing headers and j pipe attached to Magnaflow catback - only one pipe over the passenger side rear end).

Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 07-27-2017 at 08:53 AM.
Old 07-27-2017, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by nodnarb481
to do that I would just need to add in the Panhard relocation bracket, correct?​​​ having trouble posting a link from my phone but it says it lowers the drivers side attachment a couple inches. I would think that would even out the changes being made on the passenger side.

​​​​​​​ I don't road race or autocross. Heck I barely drive the thing. Occasional weekend cruises and hitting the 1/4 maybe once or twice a year. Will it really make that significant of a difference? As the poster above said there's plenty of people not even running a Panhard brace. I'd rather not go that route because I'm sure it puts some strain on something somewhere else. If relocating the brace lower isn't going to cause premature failure in something else and won't make it dangerous to drive, I'm probably fine with it.

​​​​​​​edit* I noticed that the relocation kit states that it retains the correct geometry. I'm not sure how exactly since it's purpose is to quite literally change the geometry but maybe I'm not thinking about "geometry" correctly. Suspension is a fairly new endeavor for me
If your looking to gain exhaust clearance we have what you need to achieve this without any issues such as rubbing or weakening components.

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...Path=7_138_107

Give me a call here at the shop and we can discuss in detail what will work for your application.

Craig
Old 07-27-2017, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by UMI Sales
If your looking to gain exhaust clearance we have what you need to achieve this without any issues such as rubbing or weakening components.

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...Path=7_138_107

Give me a call here at the shop and we can discuss in detail what will work for your application.

Craig
We spoke via PM just a minute ago, actually. I think I'm all settled on what I need
Old 07-27-2017, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by UMI Sales
If your looking to gain exhaust clearance we have what you need to achieve this without any issues such as rubbing or weakening components.

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...Path=7_138_107

Give me a call here at the shop and we can discuss in detail what will work for your application.

Craig
When I referred to rubbing with the original UMI kit (2012 or earlier version) I was referring to the UMI upper panhard bar rubbing against the panhard bar if your car is lowered.

BMR said they engineered their kit to account for this. Perhaps since then UMI has changed their original design to account for this issue.

See discussion here - post #7.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...n-bracket.html
Old 08-10-2017, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by UMI Sales
If your looking to gain exhaust clearance we have what you need to achieve this without any issues such as rubbing or weakening components.

Craig
A crew chief in California very familiar with road racing F-bodies stated this on another forum: "Yes - That brace needs to be straight to react cornering loads on the frame end of the panhard. If that frame tower is allowed to flex it will eventually crack off. "

Your design has two bends in it, and BMR's has 3 bends. Are you saying the crew chief's concern is not valid?
Old 08-12-2017, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by JimMueller
A crew chief in California very familiar with road racing F-bodies stated this on another forum: "Yes - That brace needs to be straight to react cornering loads on the frame end of the panhard. If that frame tower is allowed to flex it will eventually crack off. "

Your design has two bends in it, and BMR's has 3 bends. Are you saying the crew chief's concern is not valid?
In a road course car yeah maybe, in a car barely driven, No.



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