Suspension over hall. How many hours to install all of it?
#1
Suspension over hall. How many hours to install all of it?
Overhaul I meant lol. I got some more stuff I need to do. Assuming I don't run into any hiccups and everything goes smooth, how long do you think it will take to do the following using a lift:
Front Suspension - 8 hours max?
-Install UMI K-member and upper/lower A-arms
-Install new inner and outer tie rods
-Remove front swaybar
-Paint the knuckles using POR-15 rust proof paint.
-Install front wheel hubs on both sides. I've got new hub to knuckle bolts just in case any snap during removal
Exhaust: - 5 hours max?
-Install new SE 1 7/8 long tubes and matching SE off-road Y pipe.
Engine - 2 hours max?
-Install ATI 10% UD balancer, and shorter drive belts
-Install poly motor mounts
Rear suspension - 4 hours max?
-Install MWC Torque arm and cross member and new hardware. 2 torque arms on hand to see which one gives better clearance with the Speed engineering Y pipe.
-Install Spohn rear drag bar
-Install adjustable red UMI lower control arms
-Install new transmission mount
-Remove 35 spline axles so that I can replace 2" long studs with 3" long studs. These are screw in studs, but the axles need to be removed to do it. The bearings need to be removed by taking a cold chisel to the lock ring. I have new strange axle bearings A1013 in case the old ones get damaged.
4 wheel alignment will be done by tire shop. Pinion angle, thrust angle, and perfect center adjusted on the lift. Any fitment issues with the Y pipe clearing the cross member will be handled by the exhaust shop with them cutting the Y, and re-welding if needed to get it to fit. Exhaust shop will handle welding in the cutouts to the Y. I have a set of new front hubs at the machine shop getting the old stock length studs drilled out and new 1/2-20 studs being put in.
How many total hours do I need to dedicate to this project? Some of the parts that have come in:
Front Suspension - 8 hours max?
-Install UMI K-member and upper/lower A-arms
-Install new inner and outer tie rods
-Remove front swaybar
-Paint the knuckles using POR-15 rust proof paint.
-Install front wheel hubs on both sides. I've got new hub to knuckle bolts just in case any snap during removal
Exhaust: - 5 hours max?
-Install new SE 1 7/8 long tubes and matching SE off-road Y pipe.
Engine - 2 hours max?
-Install ATI 10% UD balancer, and shorter drive belts
-Install poly motor mounts
Rear suspension - 4 hours max?
-Install MWC Torque arm and cross member and new hardware. 2 torque arms on hand to see which one gives better clearance with the Speed engineering Y pipe.
-Install Spohn rear drag bar
-Install adjustable red UMI lower control arms
-Install new transmission mount
-Remove 35 spline axles so that I can replace 2" long studs with 3" long studs. These are screw in studs, but the axles need to be removed to do it. The bearings need to be removed by taking a cold chisel to the lock ring. I have new strange axle bearings A1013 in case the old ones get damaged.
4 wheel alignment will be done by tire shop. Pinion angle, thrust angle, and perfect center adjusted on the lift. Any fitment issues with the Y pipe clearing the cross member will be handled by the exhaust shop with them cutting the Y, and re-welding if needed to get it to fit. Exhaust shop will handle welding in the cutouts to the Y. I have a set of new front hubs at the machine shop getting the old stock length studs drilled out and new 1/2-20 studs being put in.
How many total hours do I need to dedicate to this project? Some of the parts that have come in:
Last edited by 5.7stroker; 08-26-2017 at 09:58 AM.
#4
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If you have a lift and access to all the tools, and a competent helper...I'd suggest either dropping the engine out or if you have a way to safely suspend the engine without the k member in do that. I dropped my LT1 out the bottom in under 2 hours by myself, now I don't know your background but I've been turning wrenches for a living for 15 years but like stated above, we all have those days nothing goes right. But if you drop it out, then you have all the room in the world to lift up your engine, place new k member, swap motor mounts, easily get your balancer on and off, stick headers on and then lower the car back down. Then wham bahm thank you ma'am the rear and call it a day. If you can leave the car on the lift over night, I'd say a solid Saturday should get you very well on your way to being easily able to wrap up on Sunday, they could go better, but could go worse.
#8
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Originally Posted by LLLosingit
To many variables, Like stuck/stripped/bolts and so on..... How long it takes paint to dry and how many beers are consumed.
I've had days where something simple took hours and times where it all went together so easy it almost seemed like something was wrong lol.
I've had days where something simple took hours and times where it all went together so easy it almost seemed like something was wrong lol.
Most recent coilover swap was very quick. How recently all the bolts have been loosened makes a big difference.
Personally, I think your estimates are optimistic, and you should probably budget some "while I'm in there" time, which is the second-most expensive statement in hotrodding. The most expensive being "I think I want to build a hot rod"