Coil-over thought
09-19-2017, 10:30 AM
#21
If you have filled out the registration card you are eligible for the 1,000,001 mile warranty. So if anything "normal" happens (seals wear out, something breaks internally, etc) we'll go through your shocks and rebuild/replace whatever is required to get them back to functioning as new at no cost to you.
If something happens that's not typical wear (you forget to tighten a bolt and the shock falls off and drags on the pavement) we'll rebuild/replace to back to new functioning status but you'd have to purchase a body, shaft, whatever was damaged.
That all being said, we have cars with our coil overs with thousands and thousands of miles with zero issues. So I don't forsee anything being a problem (unless they fall off the car somehow!)
If something happens that's not typical wear (you forget to tighten a bolt and the shock falls off and drags on the pavement) we'll rebuild/replace to back to new functioning status but you'd have to purchase a body, shaft, whatever was damaged.
That all being said, we have cars with our coil overs with thousands and thousands of miles with zero issues. So I don't forsee anything being a problem (unless they fall off the car somehow!)
09-21-2017, 09:05 AM
#24
Yes, that system will fit a 4th gen F-Body.
That particular system is our HQ Series (Handling Quality, rebound adjustable).
Though we don't list it on the website (I'll let them know so we get it up there) we also have triple adjustable (TQ; Track Quality) shocks that can be used.
HQ shocks come pre-valved. . .or you can have them custom valved to whatever you want.
TQ shocks are all custom valved. If you don't know exactly what you want we ask you to fill out a questionnaire and we select the valve stack for your intended vehicle use.
That particular system is our HQ Series (Handling Quality, rebound adjustable).
Though we don't list it on the website (I'll let them know so we get it up there) we also have triple adjustable (TQ; Track Quality) shocks that can be used.
HQ shocks come pre-valved. . .or you can have them custom valved to whatever you want.
TQ shocks are all custom valved. If you don't know exactly what you want we ask you to fill out a questionnaire and we select the valve stack for your intended vehicle use.
10-11-2017, 06:56 PM
#25
Ok, guys, I bought the UMI coil overs. I'm started to assemble them today. I'm wanting to know.....where I should start with the spring setting?? I thought maybe setting the spring adjuster about halfway on the shock body,...... maybe????
Or if anyone has some other info that would be great
Or if anyone has some other info that would be great
10-11-2017, 07:10 PM
#26
Ok, guys, I bought the UMI coil overs. I'm started to assemble them today. I'm wanting to know.....where I should start with the spring setting?? I thought maybe setting the spring adjuster about halfway on the shock body,...... maybe????
Or if anyone has some other info that would be great
Or if anyone has some other info that would be great
In another post, I read that our front suspension has a 1.7 ratio of spring height to vehicle height. In other words, if you move the shock adjusting ring up 1.0 inch, your vehicle height will rise by 1.7 inches.
John
10-12-2017, 06:55 AM
#27
Ok, guys, I bought the UMI coil overs. I'm started to assemble them today. I'm wanting to know.....where I should start with the spring setting?? I thought maybe setting the spring adjuster about halfway on the shock body,...... maybe????
Or if anyone has some other info that would be great
Or if anyone has some other info that would be great
Our '99 is pretty low and is about 1/3 up from the bottom of the threads on each shock. Of course the beauty of any coilover how easily you can adjust until it sits to your liking.
ramey
11-19-2017, 02:07 PM
#28
It has been a while since I got the shocks on. I have been playing with the ride height and rebound adjustments. I wish I could have got a two-way adjustable shock. I would have liked to play with compression side to.I went over some decent bumps and the rear of the car slammed down. I about 27in from the ground. I'm wondering what rear spring rate is and is it to week?? I'm wondering if I should go up in spring rate.
11-19-2017, 09:33 PM
#29
Other 4th Gen parts:
It's true we don't make many parts for the 4th gen (yet). We've always felt the "normal" parts were fully covered by reputable companies, so there was little need for us to jump into the market. The shocks are a bit different as we really feel we have something special that others don't offer.
This may change soon. We've been playing around with a 3rd Gen and have a lot of cool stuff going on. 4th Gen is on the list.
It's true we don't make many parts for the 4th gen (yet). We've always felt the "normal" parts were fully covered by reputable companies, so there was little need for us to jump into the market. The shocks are a bit different as we really feel we have something special that others don't offer.
This may change soon. We've been playing around with a 3rd Gen and have a lot of cool stuff going on. 4th Gen is on the list.
11-20-2017, 07:32 AM
#30
What's that price tag????
Keep in mind the price point of the UMI setup and comparable Ridtech setup. There is obviously better stuff than both of those...Penske/Ridetech electric shock setup but at what cost?
Keep in mind the price point of the UMI setup and comparable Ridtech setup. There is obviously better stuff than both of those...Penske/Ridetech electric shock setup but at what cost?
11-20-2017, 07:59 AM
#31
Instinct setups start at $10,500. I know it's extremely steep, but it is cutting edge. Try finding something else comparable. How do I know? I started testing/developing the Instinct line two years ago on our 48 Hour 1967 Camaro. It has since been used in a number of successful autocross cars, including our 48 Hour 1972 Corvette that won the Good Guys Autocross points championship this year. If I remember correctly, we finished 1st or 2nd in every GG event we entered (well, except for this past weekend as we were beat in the shootout by eventual winner Robby Unser).
If I may make a suggestion. . .do some reading on twin tube vs monotube shocks. It's basic shock tech, but something everyone looking at dampers needs to know. Twin tubes and monotubes can be made to be very competitive with each other, but these are typically much more expensive systems (like the $1600 per shock Ohlins we run on our World of Outlaws dirt late model).
If you all need some explanations or anything let me know and I'll jump back on here to help out.
If I may make a suggestion. . .do some reading on twin tube vs monotube shocks. It's basic shock tech, but something everyone looking at dampers needs to know. Twin tubes and monotubes can be made to be very competitive with each other, but these are typically much more expensive systems (like the $1600 per shock Ohlins we run on our World of Outlaws dirt late model).
If you all need some explanations or anything let me know and I'll jump back on here to help out.
11-20-2017, 08:30 AM
#32
Good insight marolf101x
Yahtzee! $10K in shocks a Fbody...HELL NO. IF you were devoted to making ALL races and highly competitive which would justify needing something like that, maybe. Being competitive in GG is impressive when dealing with Unser/Popp etc. Need to being your A Game and have some good stuff under the chassis.
Yahtzee! $10K in shocks a Fbody...HELL NO. IF you were devoted to making ALL races and highly competitive which would justify needing something like that, maybe. Being competitive in GG is impressive when dealing with Unser/Popp etc. Need to being your A Game and have some good stuff under the chassis.
11-21-2017, 12:35 AM
#33
Yup, and that's STARTING. But that's shocks + controller and all that. It's an adaptive system. Working at a performance shop where we do the majority of our work including dyno tuning in house, stuff like this gets me going since it is another part of the system that you're suddenly able to gain access to.
Having the ability to switch from a street to track setting on the fly w/ the push of a button is cool. No more rolling around under the car and in the back of the car to adjust the shocks to the firmness needed, the DSC setup takes care of all that.
If we ever get a customer in the shop that is doing more road race/auto-x focus especially on their restomod/pro-tourer, it'll be one of the things on my list for them to consider:
Having the ability to switch from a street to track setting on the fly w/ the push of a button is cool. No more rolling around under the car and in the back of the car to adjust the shocks to the firmness needed, the DSC setup takes care of all that.
If we ever get a customer in the shop that is doing more road race/auto-x focus especially on their restomod/pro-tourer, it'll be one of the things on my list for them to consider:
11-21-2017, 01:41 PM
#34
It has been a while since I got the shocks on. I have been playing with the ride height and rebound adjustments. I wish I could have got a two-way adjustable shock. I would have liked to play with compression side to.I went over some decent bumps and the rear of the car slammed down. I about 27in from the ground. I'm wondering what rear spring rate is and is it to week?? I'm wondering if I should go up in spring rate.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
11-21-2017, 02:23 PM
#35
If the car is slamming down on bumps you may have something called jacking down.
The AFCO shocks have a TON of rebound adjustment. Something like 40 clicks. If you get them too stiff, you do not allow the car to rebound back UP once it has been compressed.
When I first installed them on my car I had them full stiff. I was simply jacking the car up to adjust the spring perch and I could actually see the shock hold the tire up and slowly let it extend and hit the ground again
Screwing the adjustment **** clockwise as if you are threading a nut DOWN onto a bolt = stiffening the shock. Unscrewing a nut CCW = softening the shock.
The AFCO shocks have a TON of rebound adjustment. Something like 40 clicks. If you get them too stiff, you do not allow the car to rebound back UP once it has been compressed.
When I first installed them on my car I had them full stiff. I was simply jacking the car up to adjust the spring perch and I could actually see the shock hold the tire up and slowly let it extend and hit the ground again
Screwing the adjustment **** clockwise as if you are threading a nut DOWN onto a bolt = stiffening the shock. Unscrewing a nut CCW = softening the shock.
11-28-2017, 06:51 PM
#37
The problem isn't too much rebound, I understand about rebound and the shock packing down and not be able to return fast enough to set up for the next bump. Its slams down to fast like there isn't enough compression to slow it down. I'm thinking maybe a stiffer spring might help, maybe???
11-28-2017, 06:55 PM
#38
If the car is slamming down on bumps you may have something called jacking down.
The AFCO shocks have a TON of rebound adjustment. Something like 40 clicks. If you get them too stiff, you do not allow the car to rebound back UP once it has been compressed.
When I first installed them on my car I had them full stiff. I was simply jacking the car up to adjust the spring perch and I could actually see the shock hold the tire up and slowly let it extend and hit the ground again
Screwing the adjustment **** clockwise as if you are threading a nut DOWN onto a bolt = stiffening the shock. Unscrewing a nut CCW = softening the shock.
The AFCO shocks have a TON of rebound adjustment. Something like 40 clicks. If you get them too stiff, you do not allow the car to rebound back UP once it has been compressed.
When I first installed them on my car I had them full stiff. I was simply jacking the car up to adjust the spring perch and I could actually see the shock hold the tire up and slowly let it extend and hit the ground again
Screwing the adjustment **** clockwise as if you are threading a nut DOWN onto a bolt = stiffening the shock. Unscrewing a nut CCW = softening the shock.
12-13-2020, 10:53 AM
#39
Well, it's been about two + yrs since I installed the Coilover setup. I like how the car handles and the ride is great. Now one of the rear shocks is leaking around the shaft. How do I go about this? I know I need to contact UMI and see what they say. From what I remember it only has a two-year warranty so I'm sure the repair is on my dime. Anyway, if anyone can shed some light on this it would be great.