BMR torque arm relocation bad fitment
 

I tried installing BMR's trans mount/torque arm relocation crossmember on a 1999 Trans Am and had a major problem clearing my Kooks header and non catted Y pipe.
Worked on it quite a few hours and it's going to be a returned item. TCC007, anyone have this problem? 4L60E transmission. Need to get my BMR torque arm off of the tail shaft. Very frustrating having to put every thing back like it was.

What is not clearing? That crossmember and relocation kit go in the same place as the stock crossmember and should not have any fitment issues that the stock crossmember does not have. Our Relocation crossmembers work with any commonly available aftermarket exhaust setups. Pictures of what is in question would be helpful as well.

The relocation plate is hitting the Y pipe.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...e42c42fce5.jpg


4L60E, BMR Torque Arm Relocation Crossmember, BMR DS Loop. I assume you're saying the thick vertical tab that has the adjustable holes for mounting the Torque Arm is hitting on the front side of the Y-Pipe? I'll have to look at mine tonight but I remember there being a fair amount of room there.

These are the LPP Headers and Y.

^ This is the only thing I could think of. That tab should be nowhere near your exhaust, and the rest of the crossmember should be smaller and more out of the way than the stock piece

Mine was hitting too on the thick vertical tab. I have LPP and their y-pipe on an LT1. Had to pull the y-pipe off the collector forward about 1/2 an inch and reseal the band clamps. All good now.

I've never understood why people assume that aftermarket parts will bolt on 100% of the time no problem. The multitude of mod combinations makes it damn near impossible for something to be a direct bolt on 100% of the time. Sometimes minor modification's are needed and if a person is uncomfortable with that maybe they should stick with a strictly stock car or take it to a competent aftermarket shop who has the necessary tools to do the minor modification's needed.

I had an issue with my Adj TRQ Arm rubbing on the drive line tunnel during suspension travel. It took me 6 months to identify the area as it was not leaving any rubbing marks and I was to cheap to mount a camera in an attempt to get a video of the underside of the car. The combination of my aftermarket Moser Rear end, BMR Adj TRQ Arm and BMR Transmission Cross Brace with TRQ Relocation bracket was the problem. I took off my TRQ Arm Bracket and cut part of it down so that I was able to use the inner holes on the bracket. It took me two minutes to do, not counting the filing of the hard edges and re powder coating. You cant even tell its been modified unless you know the product. In the end it wasn't BMR's fault, it was just the combination of aftermarket mods. In reality the rubbing was doing no damage that I could tell and if I truly wanted could have just left it. But I'm perfectionist at heart and I enjoy wrench turning. Im not trying to belittle the OP, just stating what I have experienced as a wrench turner and especially as a Race Car Mechanic.

Nice stainless setup you have there. How much clearance do you have where your cutout is and where your crossmember is just under the Y merge? What is the measurement in front and rear from the ground to the fender? This measurement here. I'm at 26 3/4.


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...f381db6744.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...ec00acc56a.jpg

I'll get you some measurements tonight bud. I currently cant set the car down on its own weight as I have the rearend out for a Wavetrac install, but I can take some measurements at the crossmember itself and give you an idea of how far below the mount it sits. Then maybe you can judge your ground clearance off of that. I'm lowered 1" in the front and 3/4" in the rear, and I have pretty good clearance. Only thing I ever bottomed out on was a tall speedbump which got the drivers side of the Y-Pipe.

No rush, whenever you have it all back together, I was just curious on the exhaust clearance.

Measured from the mounting point for the crossmember that's welded onto the floor of the car....the BMR crossmember is exactly 2" below that mounting surface. Won't be able to measure the cutout for quite some time, but truthfully as far as the exhaust goes that's nowhere near the lowest point. I have the cutout rotated up toward the body far enough that the lowest part of the cutout is only an inch or so lower than the main exhaust pipe before it goes over the axle. I could even rotate it up further probably as I have an inch or better between it and the floor. You might be able to see, but there's a big open spot in the floor that works out just perfect with a cutout and a little turndown like I have.

Thanks for taking the measurements. The pic just made it look like the turn down had bad clearance. I have mine in the same spot.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...31a48fa1b0.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...b338577b15.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...6646168fb3.jpg

Viper your correct. Moved the Y off the collectors a bit to fit it.
Was in a rush to make Crusing the Coast and got frustrated.


"I've never understood why people assume that aftermarket parts will bolt on 100% of the time no problem. The multitude of mod combinations makes it damn near impossible for something to be a direct bolt on 100% of the time. Sometimes minor modification's are needed and if a person is uncomfortable with that maybe they should stick with a strictly stock car or take it to a competent aftermarket shop who has the necessary tools to do the minor modification's needed."

Ruken, chill man. Your way off base. I"ve built many cars over the last 40 years. This one is simple, a mount period. Has nothing to do with all other mods that can be done or has change the car in so may ways. I was mad at myself and asked a question.
BMR I do support your products thanks for responding.

Crusing the coast in Biloxi? I miss that event. Went 4 years in a row when I lived in MS.

Glad it was easily remedied. After seeing the above pic posted I realized what the issue was and was going to recommend the same. Always a good day when it is an easy fix!

I wasn't attacking you directly, if you read my post future I state that I wasn't trying to point a finger. Just that situations like this seem to happen a lot. Im glad you were able to get the issue resolved, and I too have had to walk away from a project for a little bit do something else then come back. Usually when it gets to that point, The issue is resolved right away once I return. Sometimes when we get frustrated we become blind to the little obvious things. Again, Im glad you got it fixed :drive:

We’re good. Like I said earlier, my agrivation, break and think
 

now on the a street strip suspension. I need to launch.
Im fortunate to have a couple of NHRA Stock/SS champions coming by Friday. This could get real.

Hope everything works out, sounds like you're getting her built the way you want her and thats all that matters!