xny1989

iTrader: (1)

As stated, after pressing in the vertical bushing in the front lower control arm, it is loose on that I can spin it and can push it partial out. It went in hard, but appears loose after being fully seated. The other control arm bushing is in tight. Is this a problem, and if so what can I do to solve it?
thanks

dp121

You haven't stated what car this is on. I just had bushings pressed in all the control arms on my 2000 T/A. Still have to put the driver's side back on the car. None of the bushing are loose. Just like your other control arm. Maybe the control arm was damaged while pressing the new bushing in? Maybe you could post up a pic so that someone can offer more help? Bottom line is that it should not be loose. I would not install that way. Good luck.

2ToeRacing

iTrader: (5)

pictures help alot

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

Is it possible to stretch the mounting hole? I measure it at 2.15",and the outside diameter of the bushing being the same. When pressing, using a ball joint press, it started at a bit of an angle, but then straightened out - the bushing went in with a pop. The other arm installation was the same experience, with a tight bushing. Car is a 99 z28. I see no cracks at all in the mounting hole.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

Well, gonna use air hammer to try and compress the hole a bit. Will do it with the bushing installed and see what happens. Will work all around it and up and down the length to get even pressure.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

Deed is done - seems nice and tight now. Would you install this on a daily driver?




long view, from the bottom





close-up view - bottom

dp121

If it were me I would buy another control arm.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

I'd buy another arm, cheaper that finding out this one is bad (letting loose while driving)

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Yes, it's pushed in too far, and the hole is stretched. There is a tiny little step on the bushing case that you don't go past. You have only two options. Weld it like above which generally doesn't do the rubber much good, or get two other arms that have not had the hole stretched out.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

yeah, I must have stretched the hole when pressing in the bushing. Thing is, since hammering in the sides, the bushing is nice and tight. Too far in, OY! expensive lesson I guess.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Not that expensive. RockA*to has them for $66 with balljoint and bushings installed.

BlackHawk96WS6

I've got a set of factory lower A-arms for sale that came off my 96 Trans Am. I'll sell the pair for $50 + shipping.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

Well, this has been a learning experience. I was able to hammer the vertical bushing out of the control arm even after hitting it with the air hammer. In the other control arm, I was able to hammer that that bushing loose too. Given that my safety is more important, it looks like I now have a pair of useless lower control arms. I still have my originals installed on the car that I can rebuild if I decide to try my luck again (I just wanted to be able to swap out old and replace with rebuild at the same time rather than having to wait to restore the old one (paint and all)). I never was able to even get the ball joints pressed in. The replacement control arms by Mevotech have a history of failing ball joints, so, if I go that route, they will be replaced. Also have the Moog problem solver vertical bushings that I'd want installed too. So, maybe find a reputable shop to replace the bushings/ball joint or invest in a shop press (got too many tools already). So, decisions, decisions, decisions. Thanks for all your input.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Just look for the line on the shell and don't press them in further than that. Typically a mistake people only make once.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for your input Sam.

handyandy

Where did you hear / read about that? I just ordered the Mevotech's because they were by far the best priced non-economy arms I could find. Haven't received or installed yet though. I know they make a basic and "Supreme" line as well, so do you know if the history of bad ball joints is both lines or just the cheaper ones?

Mine is just a weekend / nice weather car, so I was hoping I wouldn't have to worry about failures again for a while.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Mevotech stuff is not great. a customer's BMW ate two ball joints in 5k miles.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

Do a search on here and you will see complaints that the ball joints fail within a year or two. I'd also listen to what Sam Stano says as well. For peace of mind, I would have a shop replace the ball joints with Moog's. That's one of the options I'm considering. Fortunately for me, the existing stuff is holding up but needs to be replaced, eventually.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

.... and now for something completely different - I was looking at the loaded control arms available and just realized that I had installed the vertical bushing from the top, not the bottom, D'OH!

handyandy

Not to go too far off topic OP, but I did a search and read a dozen threads that had "Mevotech" in them, and I didn't read a single first hand experience. The large majority of them were "oh I never heard of them before RA but they're some Chinese garbage, I wouldn't use them if I were you". Sam's comments above are the closest thing to actual experience with the parts that I could find.

Not saying they are good or that you're wrong (and obviously Sam has had a bad experience with them on a customers car), but am I missing something? First-hand experience with the parts, good or bad, is helpful feedback, but a bunch of threads of people who have never used the parts is just misleading people that are trying to do the research.