FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

HAD to do some rear brake work for a rusted line,NE Ohio rust belt. 3 channel ABS only system 1998 Z28. The hard line running from front to rear developed a leak a few inches before it went into the flex hose mounted on body in rear end tunnel. Cut the line about 8 inches forward where it became clean and intact for splicing with a union. Removed the entire system rearward of that point for disassembly and inspection of all components. Everything up to the calipers was degreased and acid cleaned(muriatic acid-plumbers acid-weak hydrochloric acid). After all surface rust was removed,everything proved to be re-usable. But the purpose of this post is to pass info on.

Hard lines are 3/16" OD
-line / fitting from front to flex hose mounted at body
bubble flare fitting 12mm x1.0 thread 14mm hex

-hose tee on top of rear end
std. inv. flare fitting 3/8-24 10mm hex

-lines on rear end to calipers from hose tee
drivers side 24?" long passenger side 40?" long
into calipers bubble flare fitting 10mm x1.0 12mm hex

-caliper banjo bolt 10mm x1.0 13mm hex

-bleeder 10mm x1.0 10mm hex

-caliper bracket to backing plate bracket bolt
12mm x 1.75 x 33mm (1 5/16) long 15mm hex grade 10.9

-caliper to caliper bracket bolt
8mm x1.25 x 20mm(13/16) long 15mm hex grade 10.9

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Update with change of plans. Instead of just repairing/replacing the rusted section of line,decided to put the 4.56 rear end back in. It was fine when removed,just had to tighten the pinion nut back to spec from bearings wearing in. I built it in 2007 and used it for 4 years while I rebuilt the OEM 3.23 rear end. The rear end was de-rusted and POR15'd in 2007,4 years of use,then sitting in the garage for 7 years.
Instead of going with standard lines,it was 'converted to -3AN to eliminate the inverted flares and bubble flares. All fittings needed were available from Summit,they're local to me 45 minute drive. 3/16 stainless steel tubing was used,I picked up a coil from Summit last year. The car is 20 years old with 180,000 miles of NE Ohio 'rustbelt' driving Calipers(filthy and corroded) were cleaned up,caliper backets to backing plates and brackets that hold the caliper hoses and e-brake cable were de-rusted and POR15'd. BMR LCA bolt-in relo brackets( put on in 2004) were peeling and rusted. Upon cleaning those,the drivers' side had a partial crack in the bend for the shock bolt ear. I had a new un-used set in the garage since 2005,those are going on. The replaced rusted line section coming from the front will be connected with a -3AN union.
The OEM hoses will be replaced with 'SS' this upcoming winter during non-driving time.

Firebirdmuscle

iTrader: (16)

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Bled the system yesterday,used 'speed bleeders' so bleeding was only a one person procedure. No seepage or leaks anywhere. It was great having to deal with/tighten real fittings instead of the OEM crap. The bubble flare adaptor fittings to replace the bubble flared tubing were great.
Did some test driving today,everything was fine,good to feel the 4.56 gears again(behind an A4). Also added LCA relocation extensions. I did a thread about those 3 years ago.

Codenan

Unrelated to your brake project, but I was curious about your LCA extensions. I get the purpose as I've considered doing the same, but I couldn't think of way without building new brackets because as the holes get lower they also have to arc forward to keep the rear end in the same position. Have you noticed any negative effects by just going straight down with yours? That looks way easier than making new brackets.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

They are not straight down,they are arced. These are pics from the project about 3 years ago.
I measured everything related to it and made a real size drawing. Rear end housing,LCA relocation bracket,tire,ground,LCA front mount point. Since it was real size I could lay out the arc swing of the LCA and make them according to how long the extensions were to be. My original concern was should a flat tire occur,they would be digging into the 'pavement'. But since the vehicle would be moving forward,it wouldn't be digging in,it would be scraping. Also if a devastating flat were to occur,they would also protect the wheel rim from damage.

Codenan

Okay that make more sense, it was hard to tell from the first pic. Looks like an interesting project.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

3 months later,everything's fine with the brake line work.