Going back to stock torque arm
07-30-2018, 07:30 PM
#22
TECH Regular
not all heim joints are created equal......i know some have inner liners made out of different materials to help extend the life of the joint.......i have a full length MWC arm, helms on all ends, mounted off the trans and hardly ever hear any noise from that......its goona be a little costly but u could try to call mwc and order a few of their heim joints to replace yours and see if that helps, since u already have the long arm
07-30-2018, 07:50 PM
#23
I spoke with a rep from UMI. They referred me to replace my locking nuts. I ordered some but I’m not too optimistic about this.
If nothing else works out I might recheck my pinion angle then have a shop weld the joints and bolts solid. It will in a way make it non adjustable but I don’t plan on altering my ride height so I’m ok with thsi.
If nothing else works out I might recheck my pinion angle then have a shop weld the joints and bolts solid. It will in a way make it non adjustable but I don’t plan on altering my ride height so I’m ok with thsi.
07-30-2018, 08:33 PM
#24
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I spoke with a rep from UMI. They referred me to replace my locking nuts. I ordered some but I’m not too optimistic about this.
If nothing else works out I might recheck my pinion angle then have a shop weld the joints and bolts solid. It will in a way make it non adjustable but I don’t plan on altering my ride height so I’m ok with thsi.
If nothing else works out I might recheck my pinion angle then have a shop weld the joints and bolts solid. It will in a way make it non adjustable but I don’t plan on altering my ride height so I’m ok with thsi.
07-30-2018, 10:28 PM
#25
But yours is mounted on trans correct? I think the issue with noises is on body mount torque arm. I know in my case it's overkill for my driving habits and I plan on going back to a trans mounted adjustable arm. I'm sure the body mounted one serves its purpose in the correct environment.
08-12-2018, 01:59 AM
#27
How often do people actually bend/break stock torque arms? I don’t plan on ever running drag radials.
Ive been reading a lot threads and it seems like this issue is very common with any adjustable torque arm because the rod eye joints can never stay tight. I haven’t seen any solutions, most people just tend to go back to stock.
Ive been reading a lot threads and it seems like this issue is very common with any adjustable torque arm because the rod eye joints can never stay tight. I haven’t seen any solutions, most people just tend to go back to stock.
08-12-2018, 08:32 AM
#28
08-12-2018, 02:14 PM
#29
stock arms = bend, break, no adjustability
Aftermarket = NVH, clunking, amplified drivetrain noises
Theres no winning. Some people say go aftermarket full length but I’ve read on here since the AM pieces don’t flex you’re more prone to break the tail shaft. Full length with the relo bracket seems to have the same NVH issues since it’s mounted to the car.
I can can deal with NVH... it’s annoying but it’s ok. The clunk is stupid. Sounds like a mallet to my floor panel every time I let off the clutch a little quick. If there’s a reason I trade the camaro for a vette... this will be it (I don’t like the newer Camaros)
08-12-2018, 03:00 PM
#30
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Sorry I meant..
stock arms = bend, break, no adjustability
Aftermarket = NVH, clunking, amplified drivetrain noises
Theres no winning. Some people say go aftermarket full length but I’ve read on here since the AM pieces don’t flex you’re more prone to break the tail shaft. Full length with the relo bracket seems to have the same NVH issues since it’s mounted to the car.
I can can deal with NVH... it’s annoying but it’s ok. The clunk is stupid. Sounds like a mallet to my floor panel every time I let off the clutch a little quick. If there’s a reason I trade the camaro for a vette... this will be it (I don’t like the newer Camaros)
08-14-2018, 11:17 PM
#31
Jacked up the car yesterday and sure as hell the shorter bolts that run through the rod ends were loose. I took them out and soaked them in red locktite. Hoping this fixes my issue.
Does anyone know what size the shorter bolt/nuts are that go through the rod eye? Not the longer ones that mount to the diff housing.
Does anyone know what size the shorter bolt/nuts are that go through the rod eye? Not the longer ones that mount to the diff housing.
06-04-2019, 08:10 PM
#32
TECH Regular
Have you had any luck resolving the issue?
06-04-2019, 08:42 PM
#33
Yeah, a few weeks ago actually. First, I went with a stock trans mount from Rockauto. That made a significant difference in highway vibrations.
Then 2 weeks ago I threw a stock torque arm on and I can honestly say I will NEVER go back. Absolutely no vibrations, noise, clanking etc. with the stock arm. That’s with solid motor mounts and sub frame connectors btw. My daily is a G37 and the ride quality of this car with the current mods is the same if not better than a bone stock g37s sedan.
Car transfers weight way better. I don’t know how but I felt it instantly. For some reason it was real stiff with the tunnel mount.
Downside... I get a little wheel hop but only when I spin hard (it was wet).
Let me know if you have any more questions. This was a huge pain in my *** and it seriously made me consider selling the car. People make the stock arm sound like the worst thing ever and it’s really not.
Then 2 weeks ago I threw a stock torque arm on and I can honestly say I will NEVER go back. Absolutely no vibrations, noise, clanking etc. with the stock arm. That’s with solid motor mounts and sub frame connectors btw. My daily is a G37 and the ride quality of this car with the current mods is the same if not better than a bone stock g37s sedan.
Car transfers weight way better. I don’t know how but I felt it instantly. For some reason it was real stiff with the tunnel mount.
Downside... I get a little wheel hop but only when I spin hard (it was wet).
Let me know if you have any more questions. This was a huge pain in my *** and it seriously made me consider selling the car. People make the stock arm sound like the worst thing ever and it’s really not.
06-04-2019, 09:02 PM
#34
TECH Regular
Thank you! That is extremely helpful! I hate the noise of the adjustable body mounted TA. Only thing is I have to see if the stock one will work with my ARH long tubes. I'm thinking about ordering relocation brackets and some new OEM control arm replacement bushings and forget about aftermarket, seems they are all noisy. I don't track or race my car so I'd prefer better quality daily driving.
06-04-2019, 09:53 PM
#35
Thank you! That is extremely helpful! I hate the noise of the adjustable body mounted TA. Only thing is I have to see if the stock one will work with my ARH long tubes. I'm thinking about ordering relocation brackets and some new OEM control arm replacement bushings and forget about aftermarket, seems they are all noisy. I don't track or race my car so I'd prefer better quality daily driving.
I considered both a long arm and the relo bracket and this is what I got from my research. if you stick an aftermarket long arm on the tail shaft, something has to flex and since the aftermarket arm won’t you have a better chance at breaking your trans tail shaft. As for the relo bracket, a few people have mentioned it makes more noise than stock but it’s not “that bad”.
Not to mention all the adjustable arms have joints and joints will make noise when weight transfers.
06-05-2019, 06:50 PM
#36
TECH Regular
Ok so we pretty much have same setup, I also have catted Y pipe. Did you reuse your old stock TA or buy a new one? Sadly when I had my adjustable body mounted one installed I did not ask for stock one back. And I'm lowered on Strano springs so that's why I was going to do the relocation brackets. But damn if that might add noise then forget it! Appreciate your input!
06-06-2019, 12:30 AM
#37
Ok so we pretty much have same setup, I also have catted Y pipe. Did you reuse your old stock TA or buy a new one? Sadly when I had my adjustable body mounted one installed I did not ask for stock one back. And I'm lowered on Strano springs so that's why I was going to do the relocation brackets. But damn if that might add noise then forget it! Appreciate your input!
I found mine on Offerup. They’re cheap but expensive to ship. Just keep an eye out on Craigslist and whatnot.
If you do try a relo bracket let me know how it goes.
06-06-2019, 10:28 AM
#38
Ok so we pretty much have same setup, I also have catted Y pipe. Did you reuse your old stock TA or buy a new one? Sadly when I had my adjustable body mounted one installed I did not ask for stock one back. And I'm lowered on Strano springs so that's why I was going to do the relocation brackets. But damn if that might add noise then forget it! Appreciate your input!
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Glenn ***
Sales Tech
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Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
06-06-2019, 08:53 PM
#39
TECH Regular
I have Strano springs too and it drives fine. I think that whole “suspension geometry is off” is a little bit of an exaggeration/sales pitch.
I found mine on Offerup. They’re cheap but expensive to ship. Just keep an eye out on Craigslist and whatnot.
If you do try a relo bracket let me know how it goes.
I found mine on Offerup. They’re cheap but expensive to ship. Just keep an eye out on Craigslist and whatnot.
If you do try a relo bracket let me know how it goes.
Glad to hear that, I'd really like to get those and new control arms, but would only get them if there was no added clunks or noises.
06-07-2019, 09:00 PM
#40
TECH Regular
I have Strano springs too and it drives fine. I think that whole “suspension geometry is off” is a little bit of an exaggeration/sales pitch.
I found mine on Offerup. They’re cheap but expensive to ship. Just keep an eye out on Craigslist and whatnot.
If you do try a relo bracket let me know how it goes.
I found mine on Offerup. They’re cheap but expensive to ship. Just keep an eye out on Craigslist and whatnot.
If you do try a relo bracket let me know how it goes.
so I see now you have BMR control arms and subframe connectors so I feel a little better about replacing my stocks with poly nonadjustable .. what brand SFC's? Bolt on welded?