4 Piston Brembos Front and Rear?
08-06-2018, 05:55 PM
#1
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4 Piston Brembos Front and Rear? I found a great deal on 2015 ss camaro brakes for front and rear and had plans for only using the front set up and selling the rear setup. However ive just found out there is a bracket that makes you able to run the 4 piston brembos on the rear as well. So now im thinking I want to run 4 piston brembos on the front and rear of the car but was wondering if anyone has ever done it and if so if theres anything to look out for or any special parts I need besides lines and the rear brackets. Also want to know how the car was after doing front and rear brembos if you've done it. Im doing a more autocross/track based build so im hoping doing front and rear will help me and not hurt me by running the same size brakes front and rear on the car. Thanks.
08-08-2018, 02:46 PM
#4
I have yet to see a bracket that will work with the stock parking brake set up so keep that in mind if you use it. I had 5th gen 4 piston on front for years and just recently went to the 6 piston up front and am still using the stock rears. They would look good but that's about it as you can't really use them to their full potential. If you do it, plan on getting a brake proportioning valve so you can dial the rears in to your needs/wants.
08-09-2018, 12:56 PM
#5
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I have yet to see a bracket that will work with the stock parking brake set up so keep that in mind if you use it. I had 5th gen 4 piston on front for years and just recently went to the 6 piston up front and am still using the stock rears. They would look good but that's about it as you can't really use them to their full potential. If you do it, plan on getting a brake proportioning valve so you can dial the rears in to your needs/wants.
08-09-2018, 01:46 PM
#6
Doing anything to the rear is a waste of time. I don't know of too many that have needed more rear braking even with the best Wilwood/C5/C6/etc fronts. Most people run less aggressive pads in the rear anyways so even with race pads in the front, good street pads is all you need in the rear.
08-09-2018, 02:18 PM
#7
Doing anything to the rear is a waste of time. I don't know of too many that have needed more rear braking even with the best Wilwood/C5/C6/etc fronts. Most people run less aggressive pads in the rear anyways so even with race pads in the front, good street pads is all you need in the rear.
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08-09-2018, 05:15 PM
#8
TECH Senior Member
I'd tend to disagree. If you are drag racing or only driving hard from light to light, then you've got a point. But leaving the rears stock isn't going to be the best setup if you're running on a road course or making repeat passes. The added diameter helps immensely with cooling and maintaining brake performance.
08-09-2018, 05:41 PM
#9
What he is getting at is the problem with running stronger brakes in the rear is the fact that the stock style rears are already powerful enough to lock the rear wheels up, so adding more brake power is only going to make that worse. These are front heavy solid rear axle cars, all the cars you see with big rear brakes have much more weight over the rear and more importantly have IRS.
And off-topic, where do people find these IRS systems? It's a bucket list item of mine, and other than a c4 system or the non-sponsor one that just released this year.
08-09-2018, 07:42 PM
#10
TECH Senior Member
Doesn't that defeat the whole purpose of having stronger rear brakes? You add the stronger rear brakes and then take away stopping power from them? Why not just stick to the stock ones in the first place then?
Those are the only two that I know of. When I said cars with IRS i was referring to cars that came from the factory with IRS, like the Corvette. I see a lot of the guys that think putting strong rear brakes on these cars do it because "well the Corvette has these rear brakes", or whatever other car. Yea those other cars have big rear brakes and their suspension is setup for them, and their weight distribution is more rear biased than an Fbody.
And off-topic, where do people find these IRS systems? It's a bucket list item of mine, and other than a c4 system or the non-sponsor one that just released this year.
08-09-2018, 09:15 PM
#12
That and for looks.
08-10-2018, 10:21 AM
#13
You clearly have this all figured out despite experienced people telling you that your idea is bad.
But go ahead and bolt those big rear brakes up, and lay into them on that 160mph braking zone. I can guarantee you that you’re going to have a ton on fun. It will be a moment you won’t forget.
But go ahead and bolt those big rear brakes up, and lay into them on that 160mph braking zone. I can guarantee you that you’re going to have a ton on fun. It will be a moment you won’t forget.
08-10-2018, 10:56 AM
#14
I'd tend to disagree. If you are drag racing or only driving hard from light to light, then you've got a point. But leaving the rears stock isn't going to be the best setup if you're running on a road course or making repeat passes. The added diameter helps immensely with cooling and maintaining brake performance.
Like it was said about the IRS, C4 custom fab or the $$$ bolt in. I've thought about it but everything I hear/read suggests that getting neg camber to save tire wear is the main benefit. Proper setup with watts link torque arm seems to be good enough. If you're going to all that trouble, sell the F body and buy a C5 is better IMO.
Last edited by mikedamageinc; 08-10-2018 at 11:02 AM.
08-10-2018, 05:42 PM
#15
You clearly have this all figured out despite experienced people telling you that your idea is bad.
But go ahead and bolt those big rear brakes up, and lay into them on that 160mph braking zone. I can guarantee you that you’re going to have a ton on fun. It will be a moment you won’t forget.
But go ahead and bolt those big rear brakes up, and lay into them on that 160mph braking zone. I can guarantee you that you’re going to have a ton on fun. It will be a moment you won’t forget.
Do you care to share your experiences with putting on larger brakes and losing performance, or losing control after installing a proportioning valve? I'm keen to hear about how you fared after upgrading your rears, since you must have done it already to know it won't work.
Last edited by 94TAisfast; 08-10-2018 at 06:04 PM.
08-10-2018, 07:01 PM
#16
TECH Addict
I just feel like typing I guess... 
Its not like running a Camaro. on a road course is a new idea,, name it, its already been tried and proven or disproven..
We are talking like 1967 to today.... And their handling has not changed that much,, newer cars have better design details in braking..
But weight distribution and what not have not moved that much.. Tires and brake pads have improved a 1000% since "back in the day"
The Camaro and Mustang BOTH use the front to stop and the rear to keep it in a straight line.
I've peeled enough of them off the walls to see which variations got in trouble soonest..
Too much rear brake is a horrible thing at 90+ out of a big sweeper when the guy ahead of you spins..
Car,, meet armco barrier.. Youtube video to follow...
Spend the money on shocks/springs.. More speed there than almost anywhere else for the coin on a road race venue..
Make it handle first then make it straight line fast.. Tires/Springs/Shocks are a package and they all depend on each other..
I've made guys 7 seconds a lap faster with a tire pressure change.. I've also added seconds by raising their car back up a inch or more..
Read the rule book BEFORE you get out the tools.. Most road racing is not open class, and the classes that are bring a 6 figure wallet to feed your habit.
Its very easy to mod your way to never ever being competitive..
You tire budget is directly proportionate to the weight of your car and how many HP.. a
200 HP car can run a set of tires for 2 or 3 events, a 400 HP car gets a new set about 2
times a weekend. A 500+ hp car gets a set every 30 Minutes.. A typical competitive amateur
road race weekend is 1000 to 1400 dollars ,, you can double that buying tires..
Use good OEM rotors, or slotted, forget all the drilled rotors, its when you brake/shatter one not if...
Use good name brand performance pads.
I Never bed new pads and rotors together, you'll get way more consistent performance and life if you
bed rotors with previously bedded pads and bed bed pads with a nice clean pre bedded rotor.
Rule of thumb if your breaking is tuned well you can run about 4 sets of pads out on a set of rotors,
inspect often, stress cracking occurs a they age out..
Tires are like fruit,, they don't age well, keep them in the dark nice and cool and wrapped,
2 days in the sun can ruin a set of race tries for getting any decent traction.
Just my 2 bits.. on the bright side all you lost was time reading it..
Don't run res slicks unless you've done the tuning work and are running a beefy suspension, they will tear your A-arms off..
Its not like running a Camaro. on a road course is a new idea,, name it, its already been tried and proven or disproven..
We are talking like 1967 to today.... And their handling has not changed that much,, newer cars have better design details in braking..
But weight distribution and what not have not moved that much.. Tires and brake pads have improved a 1000% since "back in the day"
The Camaro and Mustang BOTH use the front to stop and the rear to keep it in a straight line.
I've peeled enough of them off the walls to see which variations got in trouble soonest..
Too much rear brake is a horrible thing at 90+ out of a big sweeper when the guy ahead of you spins..
Car,, meet armco barrier.. Youtube video to follow...
Spend the money on shocks/springs.. More speed there than almost anywhere else for the coin on a road race venue..
Make it handle first then make it straight line fast.. Tires/Springs/Shocks are a package and they all depend on each other..
I've made guys 7 seconds a lap faster with a tire pressure change.. I've also added seconds by raising their car back up a inch or more..
Read the rule book BEFORE you get out the tools.. Most road racing is not open class, and the classes that are bring a 6 figure wallet to feed your habit.
Its very easy to mod your way to never ever being competitive..
You tire budget is directly proportionate to the weight of your car and how many HP..
a200 HP car can run a set of tires for 2 or 3 events, a 400 HP car gets a new set about 2
times a weekend. A 500+ hp car gets a set every 30 Minutes.. A typical competitive amateur
road race weekend is 1000 to 1400 dollars ,, you can double that buying tires..
Use good OEM rotors, or slotted, forget all the drilled rotors, its when you brake/shatter one not if...
Use good name brand performance pads.
I Never bed new pads and rotors together, you'll get way more consistent performance and life if you
bed rotors with previously bedded pads and bed bed pads with a nice clean pre bedded rotor.
Rule of thumb if your breaking is tuned well you can run about 4 sets of pads out on a set of rotors,
inspect often, stress cracking occurs a they age out..
Tires are like fruit,, they don't age well, keep them in the dark nice and cool and wrapped,
2 days in the sun can ruin a set of race tries for getting any decent traction.
Just my 2 bits.. on the bright side all you lost was time reading it..
Don't run res slicks unless you've done the tuning work and are running a beefy suspension, they will tear your A-arms off..
08-10-2018, 10:19 PM
#17
TECH Senior Member
And that is with STOCK rear calipers and rotors. There are a lot of people who purposely use a less aggressive rear pad vs front, instead of using the same pads because of this. Even when doing a big front brake upgrade, they keep the stock rear and run a less aggressive pad.
I want you to think about something for a minute here. The S197 Mustang is the next closest "new" car that is comparable to the 4th gen fbody, its a three link solid axle rear suspension muscle car. The biggest rear brake Ford ever offered on that car was 11.8", biggest front being 14". That was on their GT500 and Boss 302, which is a "track car". Never offered a fixed rear caliper on them, only floating.
Then as soon as Ford switched the Mustang to a proper IRS look what happened, the base model got a 12.6" rear brake and the more track oriented models like the GT350 got a fixed rear caliper and a 15" rear brake, and a 15.5in front brake. Now mind you its not like Ford totally changed the weight distribution on the car or anything like that, its that the car got a rear suspension that could handle a stronger brake, this is not some coincidence.
