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Adjustable Sway Bars... Anyone using them?

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Old 10-08-2018, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 98trans/am
Its a 22mm solid rear sway bar from umi. What are your thoughts on getting a watts link to help out with the overtsteer? The autox course im on isnt the nicest pavement and isn't flat, its also very sandy and dirty which could be causing this problem as well. I was thinking the adjustable sway bars so I can have more adjustment with the car once I can really have to become a track/autocross focused build.

This is where I remind you as a site sponsor, I am also a UMI dealer.

Watts link can help because lowering the roll center effectively softens the car in roll. Adjustable bars are not as simple as you think. I did one for a long time, but pulled it recently because I wanted to go with a simplified design, which I have just haven't been able to build it yet. The others out there like the Detroit Speed one (who I am also a dealer for, so I can help there if you go that way) is 25mm, which is stiffer, even on it's softer setting.

And you have found out why I do a hollow rear bar, and have for a long time, and I do it with a thin wall tubing. You don't need adjustable bar to make this work, but having useful adjustments is helpful. Watts link, Shocks being primary. I might have missed the shock setup or settings.

Bottom line, yes a Watts link can help. But so would a bit less rear bar (and that is the case with or without the watts).
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Old 10-08-2018, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 98trans/am
Speaking of springs my spring rates are most likely off. Im running 550lb springs front and 150lb springs rear. The inside wheel is lifting up on turns but it isnt close to three wheeling. Theres a lot left I want to do with the car once it can become a more autocross/track focused build. Just trying to figure out how to get the car really dialed until I can really build it up.
Gee, on Koni's I won a lot of stuff including national championships on those rates. Unless you use a front shock that has no help from the bumpstops, which then require a lot more spring rate since no help in wheel rate is coming from the bumpstop, you are just fine with what you have. I STILL run my rear springs on my Camaro with Penske's on it, mostly because I want to show folks it works. I have stiffer front springs on my car though, but that is BECAUSE of the length, travel, and bumpstop setup on those shocks. I have thought many times about tossing Koni and Strano Springs back on to ruin someone's day.
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Old 10-09-2018, 07:51 AM
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35 solid vs hollow was definitely a noticeable difference for me. Had to make bar and damper adjustments after the switch to get the car working again.
Old 10-21-2018, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Gee, on Koni's I won a lot of stuff including national championships on those rates. Unless you use a front shock that has no help from the bumpstops, which then require a lot more spring rate since no help in wheel rate is coming from the bumpstop, you are just fine with what you have. I STILL run my rear springs on my Camaro with Penske's on it, mostly because I want to show folks it works. I have stiffer front springs on my car though, but that is BECAUSE of the length, travel, and bumpstop setup on those shocks. I have thought many times about tossing Koni and Strano Springs back on to ruin someone's day.
Thanks for all the help Sam, when I do buy a watts link I was planning on going with the UMI Watts Links so I will definitely go to you for that. I have some things to try and look into this winter before going back to autocross next season and hopefully a couple track days. Hopefully with this information I can really be competitive.




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