Phoenix'97

What do you think?















Unfortunately, I don't have the knowledge or necessary education in this area to pull off such a job and do it well, on my own. This is where I need to rely on a shop...




I hope you mean autocross racing. I fail to see how stiffer sway bars can help a car out in straight line drag racing. Another thing, I am not going change up the rear sway bar! Before this bracket problem the car handled pretty good. I will concede, however, that I don't want to degrade traction of the rear tires or even the front tires, since I didn't research the sway bars well enough. However, the car didn't seem bad at all in the past but now I need to get this bracket problem fixed so that I can better evaluate the suspension system in entirety.



Your comparison is not very helpful. What I really need to know is how the sway bar affects the car's tire traction, if it is so stiff that I am actually having the tires raise at one area on the rear or even up front. If this is the case then I definitely made a poor choice and this BETTER explains my harsh ride quality and what everyone here is saying, I actually lost traction/performance.

Citing the article from the webpage (https://www.stillen.com/buying-guide-sway-bars.html )

Quote,

"Which Sway Bar is Right for You?The best sway bar for you depends on how you'll use your vehicle. Is it a daily driver, canyon carver, weekend track car, full time race car, rock crawler or high speed desert mauler?This is the most important consideration, because it's all too easy to pick the wrong sway bar for your ride. For example, if your car is used mainly for daily driving and you install an aggressive sway bar rated at 200% stiffer than stock, your cornering performance, ride quality and traction will suffer on real world road surfaces.Let's say your driver side front wheel hits a bump mid-turn. Stock suspension or a moderately stiff aftermarket sway bar will transfer some of the energy to the passenger side front wheel. No biggie.But an extremely stiff sway bar will transfer much more of the energy - maybe enough to unsettle the suspension and reduce traction by creating tire lift on the inside wheel and excessive sidewall flex on the outside tire."


Update: I am taking my car to a collision shop that used to specialize in customizing cars but in 2008 they were forced to specialize in collision work. If anything, they are the best equipped for metal fabrication and accuracy in restoring factory tolerances so that when the brackets are replaced the control arms won't be cockeyed and my axle not being properly aligned as it should.

On another note, I am going to concede that I was wrong about the stiffer swaybars. Now that I realize what everyone here was trying to say about them, I am best to start looking for factory sway bars out there and perhaps that can be an easy swap I can do myself one of these days in the future. Now, if I go this route, and likely purchase polyurethane replacement bushings and clamps for them, will this set-up be more acceptable to everyone on here who has given me advice up to this point?

JD_AMG

That is a lot of rust and gunk, dang do you live up north or something? I could see the rust alone possibly causing the bracket to become weak. Also is that undercoating of some kind? That is also the chassis side of the control arm, is that where the hole is stretched or was it on the axle side I thought you said? The axle side is the side that would have the relocation bracket I was talking about, where the lower control arm attaches to the axle.

Although its not unheard of a certain type of bushings to bind and cause these types of problems...
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/can-w...0/#post-523629


I understand but I think you would be really surprised how simple it actually is. It takes time ofcourse if you have the time but its a good learning experience IMO. You should only need to rent a spring compressor to do the front side (and a jack of to get the car off the ground), and the rear side is super easy, no special tools needed there.


No I mean drag racing. The description of your rear swaybar on their site literally says for drag racing and says nothing about handling. A larger front bar is good for handling(your front swaybar is fine) and bad for drag racing, a larger(oversized) rear bar is good for drag racing and bad for handling. The rear bar keeps the rear end from leaning/twisting over to one side when launching hard, keeping the car straight for better launches. Too much stiffness of a swaybar in the rear will cause massive oversteer, not great for handling as you want the car to be neutral and grip. On top of that it will hurt ride quality as its resisting the rear axle from moving on uneven surfaces and bumps.

Sure because you had nothing to compare with before, so compared to the worn out stock suspension it might feel better or ok - but compared to a properly sized rear sway bar it will feel like crap. Or compared to fresh rubber bushings in that case too. Im telling you, if you are running that 35mm rear swaybar and are not actually confusing it for a smaller one, you will literally be the only person running anything close to that size in the rear for a car you want to handle and ride nice. That is strictly a drag part and has major compromises to ride and handling. Going from a 19mm rear bar to a 22mm rear bar I noticed some additional ride harshness, I can't even imagine a 35mm rear bar, my god - no wonder your car rides too stiff over bumps and potholes.

You DID lose traction and performance, that is what Ive been saying the WHOLE TIME. The bigger the swaybar the less traction to that side of the car when turning. So if you go too big in the front the car understeers, if you go too big in the rear the car oversteers. With our cars a good balance is either stock-like 32mm front, 19mm rear or 35mm or 36mm front, 21mm or 22mm rear. Some guys have used 25mm rear and usually find that to be too stiff for handling, you are using a 35mm rear bar! that is WAY WAY too stiff - as big as your front bar!
Being a solid axle car you will not get rear tire lift, but your traction is still compromised, and especially your ride quality which is what you are specifically complaining about.

Finally.
A swaybar swap is extremely easy and a pretty quick job. Poly bushings are fine to use on the swaybar as there is nothing to bind up there, they are bad to use in control arms because the control arms have to move more than up and down, and the poly can bind when moving in more directions than that, thats why it isn't great for control arms and ride quality there.
Read the description under this...
http://www.globalwest.net/tbc-3.html

"Polyurethane bushings used on both ends of the control arm. This type of a control arm is best used for drag racing. The bushings however, limit the rear end from articulating. Many drag cars can get away with this because of the way the car is set up. If this type of arm is used on the street or road race applications the rear suspension will be placed in bind when the car goes over bumps and around corners. This is because the control arm bushings will not allow the rear end to have proper movement.

Consequences: High speed oversteer, possible over stressing the suspension mount, reduces tire loading during cornering and ride change. "

http://nastyz28.com/threads/a-word-a...ushings.70313/

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Everything JD has been telling you is suspension "hard science." Consider yourself the beneficiary of a free suspension education. I'm glad to see you coming around to what he has been telling you all along.

I also think taking it to a collision shop is a good idea. It's nasty under there. Some cutting and welding may be necessary.

Phoenix'97

I live in New York and this car has been daily driven ever since 2009. I used to garage her, "my pride and joy", and my 6-cylinder Forest Green Firebird was the "beater". Unfortunately I could no longer afford two cars, the garaging costs since I couldn't store it at home, and the cost to take one off the road so that I don't have to insure it when it is garaged. Plus, I was making damn near minimum wage at this time so it was gonna happen. I had to make a painful decision and I chose to daily drive the WS6 and sell the badly rusted base Firebird. I have been getting the car rust-treated with oil based "Rust Cop" by a company. Yeah, the car looks bad, but that is all thanks to the undercoat which trapped moisture upon application and surface rusted the metal. When the car gets "overhauled" I will treat her weekly to Delta Sonic Super Kisses now that I know that this is a secret to keeping a car looking good up North, wash all that salt off the underbody as soon and as frequently as you can.





This is what I needed to know. OH, by the way I just remembered that in 2013 BMR was having a sale on a sway bar kit for our cars, front and rears with bushings and all. So, I actually have the 35mm and 25mm on my car. I also just logged into BMR's site to access my old account and sure enough they still have my order in April of 2013. I bought the sway bar kit, not individual bars. I guess I was confusing the strut bar I bought for the rear sway bar which I considered but shyed away from. I guess that is a relief but after reading your suggestion, perhaps going back to stock swaybars is what I should do unless 35mm up front and 19 mm in the rear is "balanced" enough. Before I jump the gun, I need to get my rear control arm brackets fixed.


I will look into possibly swapping out the bushings with rubber. At this point I will gladly take some peace of mind given the hell this car has gone through the previous year and now the start of this year.


Bad news, the collision shop decided to play "pass the buck" and referred me to a mechanic's shop. They only do cosmetic paint for collisions? I will seriously throw a fit if I can't find someone willing to either weld on new brackets for my control arms or reinforce what I already have.

JD_AMG

Damn that sucks man, I feel you. You should be able to do some kind of rubber coating or like a truck bed line coating to the underside of the car just one time and be done with it. Just gotta make sure the surface is super clean and tape/cover anything you don't want to get the coating on.



Ah thats good, I was wondering if you had those mixed up, I figured having a 35mm rear bar would be pretty intolerable on the street. 25mm is not too bad but a little big still IMO.

What you have now is not terrible, a smaller rear bar should benefit you though, like 21mm or 22mm rear to balance with the 35mm front. You can go to the stock 19mm rear but the car may be more prone to understeer then, but that is much safer than oversteer especially on the street.

That would be a good idea IMO.


Search for a speed shop in the area, they surely would be able to do some welding for you. Also I asked above, was it the bracket to the axle or the body of the car? That will make a difference to how much of a pain its going to be.

Phoenix'97

Right now the battle is to find a place willing to take on what seems like a simple fix. The bracket itself just needs some reinforcing but for warranty sake a shop may want to weld on something beefier than what the original owner put on this car to sell it. I actually bought this car from a dealership in Canton, Ohio, so I suppose their guys missed this modification upon inspection. I don't think I can get a truck bed line sprayed on the underbody where the replacement welding will occur but if worse comes to worse I have rust inhibitor I can spray on it after I get the car back. All that matters is I get this fixed. Corrosion on the car is not too bad although the peeling undercoat makes it look worse than it actually is.



Okay, so pretty much I have to revert back to the stock front and rear sway bars? It kills me that I had a gut feeling to leave my factory sway bars alone. Well, you live and learn and I was seduced by the marketing. Also, since my BMR rear control arms look "ify" after inspecting them, I will try to get a hold of factory control arms with rubber bushings, just in case they discover that my polyurethane bushings are torn up at the bracket.



I will try the shop that the collision shop referred me to but if they refuse this work then my father has a welder at his job who loves to work on cars. When you are desperate, you are desperate...

JD_AMG

Hey you still never answered my question, is it the bracket on the chassis side or on the axle side? The picture you posted is the chassis side but you said it was the axle side I thought. Id honestly be surprised if its on the chassis side especially since you have SFC's so that is extra metal that has to wear on top of the chassis metal.



No you do not, the front swaybar can stay, that has little effect on ride quality from my experience. However the rear swaybar is probably hurting your ride quality so changing that out will benefit ride and handling for you. You don't have to go with stock, you can buy an aftermarket 22mm rear bar or find a 21mm rear bar that was stock on some 1LE cars and 3rd gens - those will be better handling balance for your 35mm front bar.

Yea that would be a good idea. Even aftermarket control arms with rubber bushings or rotojoint bushings would be better. If I remember right there is a vendor that makes a special style rubber bushing lower control arm, founders I think, should be pretty cheap.

Phoenix'97

It is definitely on the chassis side, not the axle side. From what the guys at Firestone told me, and supposedly a few race cars too, the bracket was welded on and the metal is not thick enough for the stresses it is being subjected to.



You read my mind. I have spent some time pouring over old posts on LS1 tech with guys running BMR sway bars and the input from Strano and UMI. For budget sake I would prefer not to spend $200 dollars on a new rear swaybar at 22mm thick. After some searching on ebay I came across a used third-gen rear sway bar that looks identical to the fourth gen sway bar and it was rated at 21mm, the same as that for the 1LE package. After some research I discovered that from 1982 to 1984, Camaro Z28s and Firebird WS6s were equipped with 21mm rear sway bars! Perfect! I do like my car being a bit on the stiff side with less body roll but it irritates me to have to learn all of this now. I am going to purchase a used third-gen 21mm rear sway bar and save my BMR for a backup.


We will see how bad things are once I find someone to repair/replace the bracket on my car. I won't let this setback deter me from holding on to this car. Hey, I am one step closer to improving my suspension after learning everything I have learned from this. Thank you and the rest of the members who contributed to this discussion.

JD_AMG

Ok if that is the case that will probably be a headache, and really surprising seeing as the bolt has to stretch not only the hole on the chassis but also the hole on the SFCs.
Id rub some of that gunk off and take a look.


Yea with all due respect you did very little research before hand buying anything, otherwise you wouldn't be in this position right now. As you can see a few minutes of searching on here and you will see what the better setups are that people are running.

No problem, I wouldn't let this set you back either, its pretty minor IMO, just kinda a pain in the butt.

Phoenix'97

Just shove a pry bar between the front of the bracket and the rear control arm and the bolt moves with ease. It is just as disturbing when driving the car, you not only hear it but you can feel the rear axle and the struggle to get the car going. I can't believe I have been passing New York State inspections all this time and no one noticed this problem.


How was I to know back in 2013 that the 35mm BMR front sway bar would be fine but the 25mm rear would be a tad too stiff? I was trying to address the body roll in my car that I wasn't happy with and the BMRs did a fine job eliminating it in tandem with the Bilstein shocks. However, the car did seem a bit too stiff and the car has suffered from very minor oversteer at times, more noticeable during winter, and this plays into my desire to throw on a slightly smaller 21mm rear sway bar per the advice of everyone on here. Perhaps that little bit less in rigidity will help give me back a tad more traction where it was traded up for stiffness in the 25mm rear sway bar. Again, I had receive the experience in order to better understand what you and the others have been trying to tell me. Lesson learned.

After everything I have read about the suspension bushings for our cars, I am still not sure if polyurethane is that bad so long as they are lubed which is the problem! In the event my rear control arms require new bushings, it is basically cheaper just to replace them versus trying to get a hold of a used stock rear control arm with rubber bushings depending upon if the bushings are still good and not deteriorated. For budget sake I have to stick with the polyurethane bushings from BMR. At least I am aware of the front lower control arm issue of binding and I can better monitor how well greased the bushings are. I did find this video on a hack to keep these bushings greased using teflon tape.

JD_AMG

Most places do not inspect cars very thoroughly at all, they don't make any money off inspections so they just want to get the car in and out as quickly as possible. In the past when I was catless I brought my car into a shop for inspection and emissions hoping they wouldn't look close enough to see that it very obviously did not have cats and sure enough they never bother even looking under the car, just plugged it in and checked for codes and then passed it. They sure as hell didn't test if any bolts were loose or any control arm holes were stretched.


In 2013 this forum was still super busy and literally had countless threads about any suspension related thing you could think of for these cars. Ive been here since like 2004ish I think, at times there were threads being posted every other day of "what is the best handling suspension" - easily can search for those or you could have posted a thread asking "are these parts right for me?", or "what should i do to eliminate/lessen body roll?" - people would have replied "35mm front bar, 22mm rear bar".

Here is a perfect example from 2010:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...y-bar-get.html
You can see the difference between salesmen and people with actual experience here too..

Im glad you are keeping an open mind now.
Good luck to you. If you have the poly bushing in that caster location I would change that out asap just to be safe.

Phoenix'97

Well, I often regret not going to community college to learn the automotive mechanics trade, with my degree of being obsessive compulsive I am sure I would have been a fine "mechanic" if I had been instructed on the old school ways as well as the new school. With this said, I can only hope that I can trust places like Firestone, apparently if something important as a New York State auto inspection is something to merely breeze over then they are not the auto shop I want to be taking my car to.


Thank you and I noticed your older replies to old threads when I conducted my "research" into what rear sway bar size to go with. I apologize for insulting you earlier. I had many misconceived notions for "upgrading" my suspension system to full aftermarket with the polyurethane bushings. Plus, there was some weight savings up front by swapping over to tubular suspension but the greasing of the polyurethane bushings is the most critical aspect, and I have requested shops add to it each year which is why my pictures show such greasy slop in my rear control arm bushing at the bracket.

Thank you for pointing out the rear sway bar. I also thank Strano for his past comments about 25mm being too stiff for a rear sway bar on our cars for daily driving. So, I have decided to try a salvaged GM 21mm rear sway bar off of some 1982-1984 F-body. My car is already rusty so it will be a welcome addition for my "testing". In the future and when I can secure the financing, perhaps I will explore the idea of a custom shop swapping all my bushings, even for the BMR parts, over to rubber. Yes, I see why auto manufacturers continue to use them, the average person won't know any better to keep greasing polyurethane bushings. In my experience, they have not been so bad but I need to see how my car will be once the brackets are fixed for the rear control arms and how that 21mm rear sway bar will affect the ride quality. If I am still not happy then later down the road I will have all the bushings swapped back to rubber.

So, I guess it is time to close this thread. Thank you, @JD_AMG , and the rest of you. We shall see how the polyurethane bushings continue to hold up with the replacement sway bar and my current Bilstein shocks.

JD_AMG

Just like you I don't trust many mechanics to do anything other than really basic stuff.


No need to apologize.

Keep it updated and let us know how it goes.

landstuhltaylor

iTrader: (6)

This is super painful to read. Fix the LCA bracket and get rid of the poly in the caster bushing and the LCA. Doing anything else with dampers is a complete and total waste of time until you have done those two things. I'm running about 4 times the spring rate you are and I can without a doubt say that the ride quality is better than what you are working with using just those two parts.

Phoenix'97

Well, the good news is that the shop I was referred to by the collision shop is willing to take on the weld job. They were worried the underbody was rusted beyond repair like a previous vehicle that dropped by before me but he said it wasn't as bad as he thought. It will take them a few hours to do the repair work and this is scheduled on Tuesday. I am both thrilled and also concerned because he may find other things going on with my suspension that were not noticeable thanks to the rear control arms free-floating. It is probably for the best.

I am torn about the polyurethane bushings in the control arms. There is no indication of binding from my experience over these years. Also another thing dawned on me, the oil based corrosion treatment I have been using on my car also serves to lubricate suspension parts and is deep penetrating, so perhaps it augments any of the marine grease that may have worn away from applications. Honestly, I like the way the car feels with the added sensations I can now detect with the polyurethane bushings all around. Unless the mechanic brings it to my attention after he welds and tests the car, I am thinking about keeping them!

I have been looking into possible applications of polyurethane bushings that are softer than what BMR supplies [Post Edit: but, yeah, the simplest solution is to just use rubber once again. Then, another aspect I didn't consider, when I get my car media blasted, customized, and repainted, the greasing required for polyurethane bushings is an invitation for rust formation. Rubber, also, doesn't require greasing. So, I have to keep all of this in mind.]

JD_AMG

How do you know that what you are feeling is from the bushings if you had everything installed all at once? Id bet what you are feeling isn't as much of the bushings as what you think.

What do you think caused the hole stretch in the first place? Chances are it was the poly bushings...

Just go back to rubber and use proper suspension mods to get the feel and handling you want.

Phoenix'97

I remember how the car felt back when I had everything done to it. I loved the lack of body roll in tight turns and I loved the feel of the road (when smooth). Taking bumps, however, was rough. I suppose it is not fair to the Bilstein brand that I am using polyurethane bushings. I wish to improve the ride quality for the bumps while still retaining the extra feel I am getting from the polyurethane bushings. I will comment more at the end on this.

Or chances are it is a poor Jerry-rigged and thin metal control arm bracket that was welded on to sell a car that was raced and which likely tore it's original factory braces in the rear. The stock engine in my car was apparently put back in by the owner who used something higher performance when racing it, so goes the story from the Ohio dealership. This also begs the question if my stock engine was abused at any time and why I was forced to buy a Jasper engine later on.

The mechanic will let me know what he finds. I would not be too surprised if those bushings are damaged by weld spurs in the bracket, especially where the hole, likely jagged, was pushed and expanded by the control arm bolt.


I am almost on the verge of deciding to go this route. The cost to have this done, however, is what is holding me back because I sure don't want to be messing with my suspension and brake system when I don't know what the hell I am doing, even when referencing my own Do-It-Yourself repair book and the plethora of online sources.

Yes, I NOW see, by design, why polyurethane control arm bushings are bad compared to the rubber O.E. style. Then the need for constant greasing where in the control arms it's not possible to get grease introduced thoroughly. This is where I start asking, why the hell can't they make polyurethane bushings just like the rubber O.E. style, this essentially gives you a polyurethane bushing that functions no different than the rubber bushing and has the full flexible movement when needed by the control arms. Another thing that bothers me, rubber is supposed to be rated at 40A while most aftermarket bushings are 80A and too stiff, they do make 40A polyurethane. Why isn't anyone using this grade of softer urethane on par with rubber in softness yet far more durable and substituting it for rubber in O.E. style bushings?!

Man, the whole thing is irritating...

JD_AMG

You don't understand what Im asking. Since you installed everything at the same time, instead of one part at a time and then test driving after each part is installed individually, how do you know the changes you are feeling are from the bushings vs from the shocks, vs from the swaybars, vs whatever else?

So in other words you could think that the less body roll and better steering feel is from the bushings, when in fact its probably from the shocks and swaybars while all the bushings did was hurt ride quality. But you won't know because you installed everything at once, so you assume that what you feel is from certain parts vs other parts.

I can tell you this from experience, I installed each part one at a time, and the Koni sports shocks made the biggest difference by FAR out of springs/swaybars/LCAs/torque arm/SFC/STB/watts link. None of the said parts came even close to making the difference Konis did. However if I installed everything at once I would have never guessed that it was the shocks that contributed to the amazing balance, great feed back and steering feel and just rock solid overall feel.


Look at the pictures or back under your car again, that "brace" you see on the outside is the SFC's. That (should be) is thick metal on top of another brace of metal that is the chassis. The LCA bolt has to bend the hole in both brackets of metal, not just the chassis. That is a hell of a lot of force to do that, Im surprised the bolt is not damaged as well.
As far as your engine its not uncommon for someone to build a race engine to put in the car and then put the stock engine back in when ready to sell.

Im curious to see what happens. Take pics if you can.


Can't you have the shop press out the poly bushings and press in new rubber bushings to your stock control arms and then just buy some different rear LCAs that either have rubber bushings or rotojoint ones.

Lets not kid ourselves here. Poly bushings are great marketing hype as they replace the "weak flexible" (by design) rubber bushings (that allow the suspension to articulate properly) with the "stiff" poly bushings that are "strong" but don't allow a control arm to move on more than one axis - now if you have control arm that only move on one axis they are not nearly as bad - like upper control arms shouldn't be as much of an issue. Poly is cheap and easy to make and probably makes some companies some really easy money and high margin.

Phoenix'97

It was cheaper to install everything at once. Mind you, I had driven a 1997 base model Firebird for nine years and I had driven this WS6 for six years on stock suspension and I wanted to try aftermarket parts. Well, nearly six years later, I have my experience and I am waiting to see what happened with my rear control arms. I can't say if the bolt bent or if the bushing did end up binding, the mechanic will surely let me know and we can go from there if the bushings (very likely) need to be replaced.

Now, it is true that my previous assessment of my shocks did not take into consideration the polyurethane bushings. Then again, my goal at the start of this thread was to find some balance to tame the harsh ride as best I could with my given set-up. However, with the rattling going on in the rear control arm area and possibly other problems in my suspension, I need to have this issue fixed first. Who knows how long this has been going on and only recently after the pothole strike did it become really bad.



Well, I had a choice back in 2013, I could keep it simple and replace my springs and shocks, the shocks with bilsteins, or include a swap out of the entire set-up to BMR. Since everything with my car has been an experiment and testing products, I decided to go full aftermarket. I really don't regret it, the shop at the time was pushing me to swap in polyurethane bushings in my factory control arms and everything else, but maybe that was a small saving grace. The factory parts were not designed for binding polyurethane bushings, my tubular BMR components WERE! Maybe what happened to my rear control arm bracket may have been a result of it but I won't know until the mechanic pulls the control arms and inspects the damage.



I no longer have stock control arms! I can buy used control arms with used rubber bushings but I would prefer to salvage what I now have and have the shop install O.E. rubber bushings in the BMR control arms (if possible), front upper/lower and rear. The rear BMR control arms may be corroded but their integrity is certainly not compromised!


Marketing hype, maybe. Realizing now that you can get specialized polyurethane made at a Durometer rating exactly the same as good old rubber, has me thinking we are missing out on the true potential of polyurethane. Furthermore, the current application of polyurethane bushings is not ideal for a factory car expected to be neglected in required scheduled maintenance. The constant requirement for greasing polyurethane is absurd when it should be able to go without greasing, treated no different than rubber. Polyurethane, AFTER ALL, has better wear and tear properties than rubber so why bother greasing it, especially when it is made just as soft as rubber?! You can't pour liquid polyurethane into the same bushing molds as O.E. rubber and produce a superior longer lasting factory part that gives you the best of both worlds?

For now, I may have to suck it up and admit that I failed in my suspension choice back in 2013 but the comeback may be what to do to fix the BMR suspension system I already have equipped on my car. For now, using rubber bushings if they can be swapped in as easily as if I have my stock control arms on the car.

JD_AMG

Right, im not saying you did it wrong by installing everything at once, but with the way you did it there would be no way that you could know how each part contributed to the car.
So if you are assuming the bilstiens hurt your ride quality in anyway you would have things totally backwards, if anything they are probably one of the few saving graces you have with the setup.


Whether they were "designed" to take the load from binding or not is pretty irrelevant as all they are doing then is not breaking (to your knowledge). The bind is still there and that is what hurts your ride and handling. And the next weak link down the chain breaks anyway then, whether it be the bushing itself, or in your case the mount/mount hole.


Unfortunately doubt you will find rubber bushings that will fit. You could always sell them and use that money toward different aftermarket ones or stock ones.

There is the still the problem of stiction.

If it could be done it probably would have been done years ago.