Can't get any positive caster after lowering
#1
Can't get any positive caster after lowering
I recently replace all the suspension in my car with bmr springs. I also have stock lower a arms and founders upper a arms and a umi cross member. After taking it in for an alignment the tech said he wasn't able to get any positive caster out of it and when you look at the k member it is maxed out on the outer side of the slot on the k member. Why am I even having this issure? Shouldn't I have gained some ability to get more?
#2
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (40)
I recently replace all the suspension in my car with bmr springs. I also have stock lower a arms and founders upper a arms and a umi cross member. After taking it in for an alignment the tech said he wasn't able to get any positive caster out of it and when you look at the k member it is maxed out on the outer side of the slot on the k member. Why am I even having this issure? Shouldn't I have gained some ability to get more?
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Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
#3
12 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
The car has like +4.5 normally. Do you mean you couldn't get any additional caster over the normal spec? You mention that the control arm is at the end of the slot. If you only have the LCA to adjust caster, it comes from a difference in the front and rear. To get max + caster you would have the forward slot all the way inboard and the rearward all the way outboard. No idea what camber you would get. Max camber is both outboard. If the slots are longer than stock you should be able to get more camber and caster, but it is a trade-off.
I align my car myself because I have adjustable uppers and lowers with a UMI k-member. Just FYI my car has -3.1 camber +7 caster and it isn't maxed out. Tire clearance could become a problem if I went nuts.
I align my car myself because I have adjustable uppers and lowers with a UMI k-member. Just FYI my car has -3.1 camber +7 caster and it isn't maxed out. Tire clearance could become a problem if I went nuts.
#4
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
erm, not having any positive caster would be a massive issue. Think about the front wheels on a shopping cart and how they wobble. Hell Fox and SN95 Mustangs had about 2* and that was laughably low.
If you have none, something is wrong, big time. Either the upper arrms are in backward or the tech has no idea what he is doing and doesn't know + from -. Previous poster asked a relevant question. None, or no more than stock? BIG difference.
If you have none, something is wrong, big time. Either the upper arrms are in backward or the tech has no idea what he is doing and doesn't know + from -. Previous poster asked a relevant question. None, or no more than stock? BIG difference.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
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#5
Staging Lane
iTrader: (2)
Just backed mine off the rack after work this afternoon. We have a new Hunter Hawkeye Elite. This machine measures caster and camber to .1* and toe to .01*. My left side aligned easy both caster and camber. Put the max according to factory specifications. The right side was not so easy it was a struggle and actually bent my alignment tool to get the caster where I wanted it; it will have to be heated and restriaghtened on one end, I set my caster to +5*, camber at 0*, and toe at 0*. These all fall within factory specs for this 99 Camaro.
As far as yours goes have your alignment guy use jacking compensation. Did this first then set it down on the plates to get it exactly where I wanted it. This takes the weight off the front and makes movement easier than on the turn plates. Also remember proper tire inflation and jouncing the suspension, if you are on the turn plates this is crucial for accuracy. Went the extra mile and put 225 lbs in the front seat, I weigh 210.
You did say your alignment guy said you are at the max and still at 0* on caster. I'd have it checked again, maybe at another shop on a different machine. Mine started at 2.5-3* +. Seams odd for your situation. Hope this helps.
As far as yours goes have your alignment guy use jacking compensation. Did this first then set it down on the plates to get it exactly where I wanted it. This takes the weight off the front and makes movement easier than on the turn plates. Also remember proper tire inflation and jouncing the suspension, if you are on the turn plates this is crucial for accuracy. Went the extra mile and put 225 lbs in the front seat, I weigh 210.
You did say your alignment guy said you are at the max and still at 0* on caster. I'd have it checked again, maybe at another shop on a different machine. Mine started at 2.5-3* +. Seams odd for your situation. Hope this helps.