Tornadogward

What’s up guys. Does anyone know WHAT to buy and HOW to fix this pathetic excuse for a pair of rear rotors this vehicle comes stock with?

For the fronts I’m good to go with the CTS V brake and rotor conversion and it is ******* AWESOME.

But the rears are sad and pathetic. The caliper is minuscule and the rotor is the diameter of an hors-d’oeuvre plate.

Honestly, I’m really only concerned with the look of the rotors not the brakes. The calipers on the rear have been powder coated and just need a man size rotor to fill the 20x10.5 wheel well. How do I upgrade these rear rotors guys? The fronts are 14” with 6 piston brakes. Looks perfect. The rears are stock on stock. Looks pitiful. Help a brother out. Thanks in advance!

drdave88

Here's some info regarding upgrading it. https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...e-upgrade.html

There are a few other threads that also say it's not wise to upgrade the rear brakes since they brakes tend to be rear biased already and can actually cause braking issues.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

They are not pathetic. Like any car, there is engineering involved. The rear brakes (on a front engine car, with a heavy weight distribution to the front) do very little. The front brakes see all the action and need to be biased proportionally to the design of the car.


You don't change this feature of the design without running the car off the road and screwing up the brake bias. http://iracing.wikidot.com/components:brake-bias (< This article explains how the rear tires would lock up in this condition but leaves out the part with one seeing their life flash before their eyes.)

You can get aftermarket brakes and parts for the car, but the size of the rotor is going to be similar. (And as pointed out in the other article; you may loose the parking brake in the process.)

You might also consider going with some dubs, and you'll never notice the rotor size:

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Yep,don't mess with the rears. I put Sam Strano road race brake pads on the rear. The reason for that is I wanted to increase the static clamping force for at the strip and help to avoid 'pushing thru the brakes' when torque convertor torque is applied. It only helped by about 150 rpm, but in normal driving on a hard stop (not a panic stop) on wet pavement, the ABS kicked in where as before, it didn't. So I'm assuming with weight transfer during a stop and the back end getting lighter, rear wheels were locking up. Returning the brake pads to what was on before, the condition didn't return.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

grandma only drives her bird for sunday go to meetin......but she sure is proud of the rims we got her for xmas

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I should have mentioned that putting the engine in the trunk and turning the car into a rear-engine model would change things, but the look of the brakes is really a function of the era this car was designed in. Today, cars are much better balanced and the brake bias is a little more even and the front/rear rotors look a little more alike.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

When I get some time, I still want to do this: (I'm serious.)



^ This is the other route; taking the body and putting it on something else.