Fitting 315 F1 GS-D3s
08-28-2004, 03:05 AM
#1
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Fitting 315 F1 GS-D3s Hey guys,
I know this is a regular topic here and some people are tired of answering, but I'm driving from Chicago to West Palm Beach this coming wednesday, and I need to have sorted my problem by then, I can't drive down on nittos. I am slightly surprised I'm having so much trouble with the Goodyears, because the only suspension work I had done with the nittos was lcas. I had plenty of hard driving experiences, slight rubbing verrrrry occasionally. Are the Goodyears, really that much wider?
I've got myself a little problem here, I've been running nitto 315s all summer on 17x11 50 ZR1 replicas. I ordered and just recieved a new set of Goodyear F1 GS-D3s and went to have them mounted. Earlier in the week, I had an Eibach Pro Kit, an adjustable panhard bar, and relocation brackets installed and adjusted, I already have lcas. Well, the minute I made it out of the lot I had rubbing. I went back and had them take the tires off and I could see two spots where the tires had rubbed all the undercoating off on the inner fender well (from the edge and side wall on the inside). This was from very light driving with basically no bumps or hard cornering. I had the nittos put back on for the time being. Has anyone here been able to run these tires with no fender well modifications, just lcas, and an adjustable panhard bar? Because I'd much rather have the shop (speed inc) try some more adjusment as opposed knocking in the fender well. If not, does anyone have experience with knocking in the fenderwell, some wisdom or warnings? Unfortunately, I only have one set of rear rims, so I may have to make initial modifications and then have the new tires mounted again and try to make a few quick changes at the tire shop. Sorry for the long post, yes I searched, I didn't find an answer. Thanks in advance for any help!
I know this is a regular topic here and some people are tired of answering, but I'm driving from Chicago to West Palm Beach this coming wednesday, and I need to have sorted my problem by then, I can't drive down on nittos. I am slightly surprised I'm having so much trouble with the Goodyears, because the only suspension work I had done with the nittos was lcas. I had plenty of hard driving experiences, slight rubbing verrrrry occasionally. Are the Goodyears, really that much wider?
I've got myself a little problem here, I've been running nitto 315s all summer on 17x11 50 ZR1 replicas. I ordered and just recieved a new set of Goodyear F1 GS-D3s and went to have them mounted. Earlier in the week, I had an Eibach Pro Kit, an adjustable panhard bar, and relocation brackets installed and adjusted, I already have lcas. Well, the minute I made it out of the lot I had rubbing. I went back and had them take the tires off and I could see two spots where the tires had rubbed all the undercoating off on the inner fender well (from the edge and side wall on the inside). This was from very light driving with basically no bumps or hard cornering. I had the nittos put back on for the time being. Has anyone here been able to run these tires with no fender well modifications, just lcas, and an adjustable panhard bar? Because I'd much rather have the shop (speed inc) try some more adjusment as opposed knocking in the fender well. If not, does anyone have experience with knocking in the fenderwell, some wisdom or warnings? Unfortunately, I only have one set of rear rims, so I may have to make initial modifications and then have the new tires mounted again and try to make a few quick changes at the tire shop. Sorry for the long post, yes I searched, I didn't find an answer. Thanks in advance for any help!
Last edited by highschoolsux; 08-28-2004 at 04:45 AM.
08-28-2004, 07:35 AM
#2
Nitto's are narrow for their size compared to most tires.
I would start by taking a BFH (thats a large hammer) to the shiny spots. Make sure the back seat is in the upright position when you do this. If the rob marks are only on one side, adjust the PHB accordingly. I had to roll the fender lip and run a 1/4" wheel spacer out back with +50mm offset wheels to eliminate the rubbing. Running a spacer requires long wheel studs.
Now if your Nitto's have plenty of tread I would not worry about taking them on a trip. If they are worn, I would not.
I would start by taking a BFH (thats a large hammer) to the shiny spots. Make sure the back seat is in the upright position when you do this. If the rob marks are only on one side, adjust the PHB accordingly. I had to roll the fender lip and run a 1/4" wheel spacer out back with +50mm offset wheels to eliminate the rubbing. Running a spacer requires long wheel studs.
Now if your Nitto's have plenty of tread I would not worry about taking them on a trip. If they are worn, I would not.
