jd13

iTrader: (3)

Yesterday I attempted to put on my SLP linelock. Everything went smooth until I went to bleed the brakes. The SLP solenoid leaks quite a bit. I couldn't get the lines in any tighter so I figured I'd take it up to the local shop today and see if they had any tricks.

So I put the stock line back in but it leaked at the ABS unit. I took it out and looked and I stripped the stupid ABS unit when I put the brake line back in.


So now I'm stuck with no brakes and every place I talked to said I need a new ABS unit ($415). Now I know that that is BS. Shouldn't I just be able to retap the hole and just install a larger sized brake line fitting? I'm sure there is air in the ABS unit now so I guess a trip to the dealership is in store for them to bleed the brakes anyways.

01 Red WS6

iTrader: (4)

Did you use teflon tape on the threads when you put in the line lock? I bought the liquid and I haven't had a single leak

jd13

iTrader: (3)

I didn't think of that at the time, but when I get everything back together right, I will use the tape. The SLP solenoid leaking isn't my main concern. Thanks for the idea.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I doubt you can retap it since it has the flare fitting in the bottom of it. A bottoming tap will probably not quite go to the bottom and if you can't cut threads to the bottom, you will probably not be able to get the fitting tight so it won't leak. So, I'm going to guess (I've not seen the car in question, but based on other experience) that you'll not have much luck tapping it out. I hope you find a way, but I doubt you'll have much luck with it.

Sorry and good luck.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

trackbird...I have to say, I enjoy reading your posts. Very informative to others (though sometimes they don't want to hear what you have to say many comments have been correct...not just this post but many others in HB and wheel sections)

JD, you may be able to try changing to an NPT tap on your modulator which would of couse mean the fittings that are at the end of your line lock won't work, you'd have to change it...change out to a double flare end into an inverted flare fitting w/npt male adapter to enter to your abs modulator.

....or you can just remove abs if you don't use it or ever used it. Against some beliefs, ABS has no effect on braking when the modulating unit is not active. If you've never experienced pulsing while braking, you've never activated your ABS fwiw.

Good luck.

Steve
SJM Mfg, Inc_Bogart wholesale/distributorship

jd13

iTrader: (3)

That's what I figured TB, but like steve said, I'm going to try that. It's worth a try right?

I know ABS has no effect on braking and I've only used it once (besides me just "testing" it out).

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

quick comment, teflon tape shouldn't be used on bubble or flare fittings.

Good luck.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the kind words Steve. Just sharing the things I've learned the hard way to save others money.

JD, it never hurts to try, just make sure your "fix" is going to stay put. Losing a brake line at speed is never good. We had brake recirculators on the old road race mustang (it's a 71, mostly tube frame car) and they were attached to the master cylinder with a dual male (think "threaded pipe") brass fitting. Vibration sheared that fitting off and the pedal hit the floor. The car wasn't hurt (we got lucky) and no damage was done. The message here is to avoid brass fittings (and pipe thread wherever possible) in brake systems or risk failure. Thought I'd share what we learned the hard way (and no, I didn't install the fitting, I just got to fix the mess when it was done, I had to drill out one of the 3 master cylinders on the car, re-tap it with a pipe thread tap and add a hose to remove the recirculator from the end of the master cylinder and install a hose to help remove the vibrations induced stress from that fitting).

Good luck and be safe!

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I reread my first post and had an idea.

You might try a bottoming tap and a new fitting. You can find fittings at autoparts stores to adapt master cylinders that are threaded to accept different sized lines (so you can't swap them on a factory car, but the lines often change between years or models that use otherwise identical master cylinders). that may allow you to get an oversized fitting. Then, tap it as far as a bottoming tap will allow. Install the fitting and see how far it will screw in (don't force it). Remove it, measure the depth of the threaded hole, have the first few threads "turned" off of the fitting to allow it to bottom against the flare fitting. (think of a brake fitting that is not threaded all the way to the end, that's the "look" you'll need). Install it, and then fasten your line into it (the stock line). If the stock line won't fit because it's metric (I think it is, but I've not had it off to check), get a hard brake line at the store and use the nut off of it (reflare the connection, just make sure there is room before you cut it off, I've not looked at the fitting recently). Use the nut off of the new hard line that will fit the spacer (you need the nut that is close in size to your stock line, don't get the "step up" brake line ataptor and use a huge nut on a stock line, look for something that steps from large to small, tap the ABS unit "large" and then try the stock nut or use a small nut from a standard line...make sense?).

That's just crazy enough to work. If you're confused (and I don't blame you), drop me a pm and give me a phone number, I'll call you to explain, I don't like to "guess" when working on brakes).

That's the only fix I can think of.

jd13

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I was able to retap it to 3/8", the size it was prior. I only cross threaded the ABS now that I got to see it under some decent light. Thankfully! I thought from the beginning I would have to do what you described above (and I still may have to), but I got lucky and took a shot at it this way.

I still cannot get the stupid SLP unit to stop leaking though. The ABS does not leak at all which is good. Since I did have to retap the ABS unit, the SLP line fits in there fine only because the fitting on the end is different than the fitting on the stock line. I cannot put the stock line back on because the fitting is a different length than the SLP unit. If that makes sense? Basically, the SLP nut will tighten nice and tight, but the stock nut will go in to a point, then just act like it is stripped. Weird, but looking at the two nuts (SLP and stock), there is a visual difference.

I know eventually I will have to retap the ABS again for a larger size fitting then adapt it to the stock line, but it is not something I want to do at this moment.

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

Ebay usually has the ABS units anywhere from $20 to $100

NOBR8KSS

iTrader: (12)

You might get lucky and find an ABS unit at a salvage yard....I know my local yard has at least one of them.