Nakoz

iTrader: (2)

Ok guys here's a problem that keeps kicking my ***.... I have been fighting wheel hop for a while now, both with street tires and et streets. I have all new rear suspension, minus shock and springs (still stock), I have set my pinion angle at -2 and checked all my suspension. In case your wondering what i have, take a look at my sig and all my suspension parts are listed. The only other thing i can think of is that i still have a stock trans mount and rear sway bar, but i dont think that would hurt me as bad as it has been.

Any help would be great!!

Thanx in advance....

Nakoz

Gonzo1

Try a polyurethane trans mount. I went with prothane it seemed to be a little less noisy than energy suspension. I got that wheel hop banging before the poly trans mount and than it was fine after. Just a thought because you will probably need one sooner or later.

Mike K.

how does the angle of your LCA's look? If its like this / then the rear will try to bounce up when you floor it, if its like this \ then you are set. Maybe this is some of the issue?

The rear sway will help keep both tires lvl as well so I say get that on there also.

Z-OUTLAW

I have the same problem wheel hopping in, 1st sometimes still hops going into 2nd.
Also have 12-bolt 33 spline eaton posi. All BMR extreme,trak pak,control arms, Drag bar, P/H bar, subframe Conn., and relo brackets. Street twin & Denny's N/S. Pinon is set at -1 1/2, control arms are set in bottom hole(relo brackets). ES tranny mount was worn so put new stocker on better results but still hopped. Also have stock srings & shocks 94-Z. Talked to Frank @ BMR and told me that there was'nt enough shock dampening ie (worn shocks & springs) to force the rear in the pavement thus resulting in wheel hop because every thing else is so stiff now. When she was stock every thing is soft and allowed things to flex stamped steal stock componets.

When I'm driving know I feel every thing got some hal's all the way around just got them today still waiting from Baer for my GT+ so I can do it all at once. I'm still debating if I should get knew rear springs or not but I can't find anything with 1/2" drop. Will probably just chuck the coil isolater's and use a heater hose or something.

Believe me I've tried every possible adjustment to the rear pinon. Checked everthing many a times over. It's gotta be the shocks.

Nakoz

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the post's guys. To answer the question my LCA's look more level then anything else, they are in the bottom hole of my LCA brackets right now. I am going to order the poly transmount and see if that helps. If not, then I may just drive all the way to texas and have Madmann setup my suspension.

Thanx again for all the replies.

Nakoz

BOWTIE

Old post, I know, but did you ever get it figured out. I am starting to hear stories of rear end alignment problems, that could be causing it if the rear is not tracking straight. I am having all sorts of problems with my new 9", with a Spohn Adjustable T/A. To the point that it is not drivable.

BADZ

iTrader: (5)

Madman Can Help You!!!!!

Larry

iTrader: (4)

Get some Gabriel gas shocks on the rear. That eliminated my wheel hop. The axle has to be dampened both forward and back and vertically. I tried all the aftermarket suspension and not until I installed the Gabriel's did my wheel hop go away.

BOWTIE

For what it is worth, I had my alignment checked after the Moser 9" swap, and the tracking of the rear axle was indeed off. The thrust (I think was what they called it) was off by .17 (not sure if that is measured in degrees or some other measurement) and we had to crank in quite a bit of adjustment to the right (pass) side to get it square again. When we were done it would flicker between .00 and .01 for the thrust, but both wheels are actually a little negative -.02/-.03 or something like that. I am not sure if the housings are intentionally made that way so the straighten out under a load or if they are just a little tweaked, anyhow, there is no way to adjust that so we did not worry about it. Anyhow, my wheel hop seems to be better now that it has been corrected (I still have it, but it seems to take more throttle to make it happen).

white01ss

iTrader: (37)

A second vote to put in a poly tranny mount.

I tried the ES one and it was pretty harsh. Then I went to a 1LE mount it was smooth and the wheel hop came back, but not as bad as the stocker. Then I sawed off the bumps on the ES mount and the harshness went away almost completely. It feels much more solid than before and the car is still a pleasure to drive. Do it, man!

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

I would replace the shocks (HALs) & install a bigger rear sway bar. Your LCAs need to be lower in the rear than in the front. And an adj panhard bar will center the rear end if tracking is your problem.

BOWTIE

An adjustable panhard bar will indeed center the rear end, but will have no affect on the tracking. Tracking (at least the way I was referring to it in the previous post) refers to the rear axle not going in the same direction as the car. It requires adjustable LCA's to move one side or the other to get it pointing straight ahead and not off to the side (example: /^/ this is where the slashes indicate the rear wheels and the arrow the direction the car is pointing).

Nakoz

iTrader: (2)

Thank you guys for all the help. I went with the front hals because my car kept dying on the lauch and the hals helped the wait transfer to the rear which has almost eliminated the bogging off the line. And yes I do have an adj. pan hard bar and LCA's and brackets and my LCAs are in the lower bolt hole of the brackets. I am not sure if my 12bolt is centered and I really dont know how to measure it. How can i tell if my rearend is not centered? I am not a suspension guy by any means, so any advice would help.

Thanx for all the replies,

Nakoz

Larry

iTrader: (4)

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/instructions/phr002.htm

BOWTIE

I just adjusted it and then stepped back behind the car and eye balled it until it looked straight (just be sure you have all the weight on the tires and roll it forward and backwards then look at it). As far as getting the thrust/tracking straight, you will need to take it to an alinment shop equipped to do 4 wheel alignments and have the back aligned. Keep in mind in stock trim ours are not adjustable, so you may have to explain to them that now yours is (via the adj. LCA's) and that you have replaced some components back there and want it checked and corrected if out of line.

Nakoz

iTrader: (2)

Awsome instructions on the panhard bar!! You know i noticed the other day that my passenger side rear wheel does stick out more then the driver site wheel. I will have to try that measurment sometime this weekend and see what happens. Thanx again!!