Silverstate suspension?
#3
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I don't run silverstate, but I can tell you it needs to be stiff. We're talking 500+ lbs spring in front and 150 lbs springs in the rear minimum.
For a dedicated high speed vehicle you probable want much more than that, with all the corresponding suspension components to keep up with high speeds if you can afford it.
For a dedicated high speed vehicle you probable want much more than that, with all the corresponding suspension components to keep up with high speeds if you can afford it.
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what class are u running in? in the lowest class, up to 110, a good alignment is all u should need. u do need stiff springs, as well as a good size swaybars to prevent body roll at speed. you might want a upgraded panhard bar to prevent the rear from moving too much. if u don't have SFCs that is probably the first thing to get. i hope to run it next year if at al possible.
#5
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Originally Posted by Phoenix57
what class are u running in? in the lowest class, up to 110, a good alignment is all u should need. u do need stiff springs, as well as a good size swaybars to prevent body roll at speed. you might want a upgraded panhard bar to prevent the rear from moving too much. if u don't have SFCs that is probably the first thing to get. i hope to run it next year if at al possible.
I'd throw a set of good shocks in there at a minimum. The stock shocks are terrible on these cars and if I were only doing one thing before running that event, it would be shocks (and an alignment....make it two things). But, I'd suggest much more than that, I just didn't want you to grab a PHB and SFC's and think you are "all set", though it's a start.
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I didn't know there are different speeds, I thought Silverstate was 120 mph+ the whole time? I'm guessing because I remember seeing some videos of 160 mph fbodies and thought that looked dangerous. I agree throw some quality componets on, wise investment and are relatively inexpensive. It would be an excellent addition to your setup. You want to be confident with whatever you decide.
I believe springs will be a worthwhile upgrade as well. During silverstate runs there aren't too many turns, however when there is one you will see a lot of suspension compression. More importantly at high speeds even a small dip becomes way more pronounced and with stock or 1le springs they can't control the resonance. Thus you want to make sure there is no wiggle on there and springs will help with that as well big time.
I believe springs will be a worthwhile upgrade as well. During silverstate runs there aren't too many turns, however when there is one you will see a lot of suspension compression. More importantly at high speeds even a small dip becomes way more pronounced and with stock or 1le springs they can't control the resonance. Thus you want to make sure there is no wiggle on there and springs will help with that as well big time.
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80-110 is the first class,which only requires a helmet and a fire extingusher as the safety equipment. 120 is the start of the second class of cars, which also have to have a 6pt roll and a 5pt harness. NataSS is the ORR guy i think. try this in the road racing forum also.
#9
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suspension requirements will really depend on what speed class you enter. 90 or 95 mph is the very bottom class. For that you need nothing. I wouldnt even worry about getting an alignment.
Guys that run with 168mph tech speeds run eibach prokit springs and upgraded shocks of various kinds. I dont trust alot of the stuff some of the other Fbody guys are running. Racehead on this board runs Koni DA's up front and Bilstien HD's with a pro kit and his car is rock solid at 150+. I run the LG motorsports G2 coil over package with 650lb fronts and 225lb rear springs and the custom bilstien shock. I also run the ST 35mm front sway bar and stock rear bar. I could drive the car with one hand at 170mph if I wanted to its so steady. Down side is that my combo beats you to death on the road at human speeds.
Everything will depend on your speed class. Unless you have attended a race school or driving school prior to the event the fastest you can run is with a 124mph tech if I remember right.
Guys that run with 168mph tech speeds run eibach prokit springs and upgraded shocks of various kinds. I dont trust alot of the stuff some of the other Fbody guys are running. Racehead on this board runs Koni DA's up front and Bilstien HD's with a pro kit and his car is rock solid at 150+. I run the LG motorsports G2 coil over package with 650lb fronts and 225lb rear springs and the custom bilstien shock. I also run the ST 35mm front sway bar and stock rear bar. I could drive the car with one hand at 170mph if I wanted to its so steady. Down side is that my combo beats you to death on the road at human speeds.
Everything will depend on your speed class. Unless you have attended a race school or driving school prior to the event the fastest you can run is with a 124mph tech if I remember right.
#13
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Originally Posted by NataSS Inc
Look into the Koni DA/Bilstien HD combo with eibach pro kit springs. Seems to be about the best balance between street and race. the konis will eat a hole in your wallet though. However, you wont regret the purchase one bit.
#14
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In ORR you have to have the adjustability for the varying road surfaces. ORR isnt anything like prepping a car for the race track. 100x's more variables to worry about since you are running these events on a public road. Frost heaves, dips, bridges, crowned road surface etc. At the PE 130 last year I hit "Brian Bridge" at about 130mph. At that moment I realised the money spent on the LG coil overs was well spent.
I thought the SA's only handled compression. Or at least thats what I have been told. But rebound is the biggest thing you want to worry about in ORR. Springs can handle the compression. The more rebound you can get the better.
I thought the SA's only handled compression. Or at least thats what I have been told. But rebound is the biggest thing you want to worry about in ORR. Springs can handle the compression. The more rebound you can get the better.
#16
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I guess I might as well weigh in here. I'd agree that rebound is the most important aspect of car/shock control. However IMO the compression is much more important in ORR than in a typical open track type environment. You're on a narrow 2 lane road with no shoulders, It wasn't intended, at all, for the speeds we travel. The frost heaves/dips and 35 mph wind gusts all seem to want to work together to "slap" your car down onto the pavement. Compression dampening is what will keep you from bottoming the suspension and allowing the car to skip a few times before good tire contact is established again. One or two skips and you're in the desert doing cartwheels.
Naturally it all depends on how fast you plan on going. Below 120 mph, some Bilsteins on stock springs with a good alignment is safe enough. From there up to 150 or so and you'd better spend a little more quality time with your suspension 150-175 mph and you'd better have it dialed for ORR, open track setups don't work here. Above that I don't have a clue, I haven't been there YET
Naturally it all depends on how fast you plan on going. Below 120 mph, some Bilsteins on stock springs with a good alignment is safe enough. From there up to 150 or so and you'd better spend a little more quality time with your suspension 150-175 mph and you'd better have it dialed for ORR, open track setups don't work here. Above that I don't have a clue, I haven't been there YET
Last edited by Racehead; 04-13-2005 at 09:31 PM.
#17
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Originally Posted by Racehead
I guess I might as well weigh in here. I'd agree that rebound is the most important aspect of car/shock control. However IMO the compression is much more important in ORR than in a typical open track type environment. You're on a narrow 2 lane road with no shoulders, It wasn't intended, at all, for the speeds we travel. The frost heaves/dips and 35 mph wind gusts all seem to want to work together to "slap" your car down onto the pavement. Compression dampening is what will keep you from bottoming the suspension and allowing the car to skip a few times before good tire contact is established again. One or two skips and you're in the desert doing cartwheels.
Naturally it all depends on how fast you plan on going. Below 120 mph, some Bilsteins on stock springs with a good alignment is safe enough. From there up to 150 or so and you'd better spend a little more quality time with your suspension 150-175 mph and you'd better have it dialed for ORR, open track setups doesn't work here. Above that I don't have a clue, I haven't been there YET
Naturally it all depends on how fast you plan on going. Below 120 mph, some Bilsteins on stock springs with a good alignment is safe enough. From there up to 150 or so and you'd better spend a little more quality time with your suspension 150-175 mph and you'd better have it dialed for ORR, open track setups doesn't work here. Above that I don't have a clue, I haven't been there YET
#18
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Youre looking at it. There is pretty much myself and Racehead and myself on this board. We spend ALOT of time on the phone discussing different set ups and other options to run with. Mostly though, its Racehead telling me I am smoking dog **** thinking I can get away with some of my ideas.
The guys that go REALLY fast (180-225mph) with Fbodies dont like to give up information on the combos they run. They dont want to see some nOOb show up and get it right the first time after the tens of thousnads of dollars they spent getting it right (dont be suprised to see a 93-97 Fbody that has has over 200K put into it that runs STUPID fast).
ALOT of trial and error in this stuff. People will give up info on something very easily and other it has to be pryed out of. Very rarely will you have some one say "This is how you should do it". They will throw a number of different ideas and combos they have tried and its up to you to figure out how to get it right on your car.
The guys that go REALLY fast (180-225mph) with Fbodies dont like to give up information on the combos they run. They dont want to see some nOOb show up and get it right the first time after the tens of thousnads of dollars they spent getting it right (dont be suprised to see a 93-97 Fbody that has has over 200K put into it that runs STUPID fast).
ALOT of trial and error in this stuff. People will give up info on something very easily and other it has to be pryed out of. Very rarely will you have some one say "This is how you should do it". They will throw a number of different ideas and combos they have tried and its up to you to figure out how to get it right on your car.