Lowering with Koni SA's ??
 

I'm in the process of swapping out my stock shocks with some Koni SA's.
I'm keeping the stock springs and just finished swapping the driver side front shock and I compared the height to that of the still stock pass. side shock/spring, and they are almost identical :huh:

I'm using the lower spring perch(ring in the lower groove) as well as the stock plastic lower spring seat insert. I put the big washer on that came with the fronts on top, put the stock top seat back on (with the rubber insert that goes in the top of it), put a new nut on the shaft and tightened it down.
Did i miss anything?

Will I not see the difference until they are installed :confused:

I just did the same thing last weekend! :) Going to put the passenger side and the rears on this weekend. Right now they do look the same height, but I'm assuming it's because I've still got the swaybar on.
Is your adjusting window being blocked by a spring coil on yours? It looks like I'll still be able to get to it, but will have to bend an allen wrench to go around it. Ahh well...

I would wait to see what happens once you finish and drive it a few feet. Suspension bind or whatever causes the front to sit up high whenever you jack it up and let it down. So it should be lower once you roll the car some to unbind the suspension.

Exactly, you'll have to roll it a bit after lifting it to get it to drop down to it's ride height.

I haven't actually installed them on the car yet, I was putting the old/new standing beside one another on my workbench. The top and bottom spring seat appear to be at the same height for both old and new.
Maybe they will settle in after driving for a while.

I did try to locate the adjustment window so it wouldn't be obstructed by the coils. With my stock springs, there didn't seem to be much you could do to get a clear shot without facing the window towards the front of the car.
I'm sure I will have to fine tune them once I get them on. I was also wondering about window location before I assembled the spring/shock, but it won't be as bad as I thought if I need to rotate the shaft a little before I actually mount to the car.

I will update as soon as I get everything together

You may not see the difference in the shocks with the naked eye. You have to remember that the front suspension has a motion ratio of 1.7 to 1. For every drop in spring height of one inch, the car will lower 1.7 inches.

If you look at the 2 grooves, they don't look that far apart.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3..._snap_ring.jpg

You have to take that distance and multiply by 1.7 to get the actual drop.

Got all my Konis installed! I pointed the front adjusting windows straight out, and I'm glad I did. With the stock springs, it was blocked when the car was raised, but when it's on the ground, I've got a straight shot to it :) Haven't compared the before/after of ride height yet, but it looks slightly lower. I didn't want it to go too low, due to the SLP headers. ;) I still made it over the speedbumps coming home today, so I'm good.

Finished my Koni install last night! :)

Car rides very tight and hardly any body roll with the front Strano anti-swaybar.

I didn't get a chance to put the rear bar on yet, but the setup is way better than stock, let alone the 90k+ shocks that they replaced.

I set the front adjustment 4 sweeps from full and the rears one full turn from full soft. She rides a little stiff, which is good, although I might try another sweep softer up front and full soft out back.

How much difference would the Strano rear bar make(23mm?), compared to the stocker?

Cornering at the limit it should allow the rear to step out a little easier.

She rides a "little" stiff because I had the rears 1 full turn from full hard!
I then turned them all the way hard after driving around thinking I was going full soft and she rode a little stiffer.
I guess I should've looked at the turning knob that came with the shocks.
I have them adjusted just right for now (how I originally thought) and I am very impressed.
Thanks to everyone for all your help!

I noticed quite a drop when I installed my Konis. I never measured, but it is noticably lower, there's no doubt in my mind about that.

I rode around with just the 35mm front bar and stock rear bar for about 6 months. Under normal street riding you don't really feel it, but when I really pushed the car hard in the corners I could feel the rear rolling a lot more than the front. That feeling went away with the 22mm rear bar.

I noticed a big difference in height in the rear, maybe a little up front. I figured on driving around for a few days and then measure again.
Did anyone cut down the rear bumpstop? I used a kitchen knife and cut about a half inch or so off the bottom. I haven't noticed any problems driving around, but I haven't hit any hard bumps, either.

Sure. Do you have the yellow bumpstops? Those are the better ones.

You may want to trim the sides of the stop to put that taper back in it. As you make it more squared off they can get pretty stiff and abrubt and become less progressive. You want the initial touch to be soft and then ramp up in stiffness. That will give you a good ride and proper functioning. When it is squared off the bumpstop hits hard and can break the rear loose in a corner.

I do have the yellow stops.
I will trim them more and put the taper back in. After driving for a couple of days, I have felt more road bumps. I think the rear is hitting the stops as they are right now.

The rear of the car commonly hits the stops. It's not new, but since you cut down your bumpstops you lost the progression in the rate so they load up a lot more abruptly....

Someday folks will realize that it's not at all odd to contact the rear bumpstops, and that's it not a bad thing if the right stops are there......

Understood.
Can you just cut the stock ones, or are there specific stops available?
I did a preliminary search, but didn't find any related info.

Thanks, by the way, to Sam Jr. and Arlyn for all your help and direction!

There aren't any rear stock location bumpstops made that are shorter, so you have to mod your own. Typically the factory stops rob you of about 1/2" of usable travel. When you modify the stops by that much the rear axle will travel higher, but shouldn't hit anything serious. The first thing in the way will be the exhaust pipe over the axle. You may start to bump it, I do, but you can't hear anything. The pipe can move around on the rubber bushings so it's no big deal. The only reason I knew mine was touching was some slight contact marks.