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slp revalved or koni sa?

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Old 03-03-2006, 09:26 AM
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Post slp revalved or koni sa?

Is it worth the extra money to go with the Koni sa over the revalved bilsteins? How much better are they on stock springs? I figure you get what you pay for but $385 for 4 bilsteins compared to $800 for 4 konis seems extreme.
Old 03-03-2006, 09:33 AM
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Ive heard that on a stock sprung car the Bilsteins will work well..but your never going to do better than the Koni's.....

On a lowered car the Koin's are touted to be the best for the application

Maybe Sam will chime in... this is his area of expertise...
Old 03-03-2006, 09:56 AM
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Go Koni SA. Koni SA, go.
Old 03-03-2006, 10:27 AM
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If I remember correctly, the SLP revalves are revalved for the SLP springs ONLY.

$800 is a lot of money, but in the grand scheme of things, I think it's worth it. New heads are $2K+, headers are between $300 and $800, catbacks are in that same price range, etc. Just because a part doesn't give you better dyno numbers doesn't mean it should be overlooked.

/strano


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Old 03-03-2006, 10:29 AM
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My freind has Koni yellows on his TA and let me tell you the car just rides awsome and takes truns very nice.
Old 03-03-2006, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
If I remember correctly, the SLP revalves are revalved for the SLP springs ONLY.

$800 is a lot of money, but in the grand scheme of things, I think it's worth it. New heads are $2K+, headers are between $300 and $800, catbacks are in that same price range, etc. Just because a part doesn't give you better dyno numbers doesn't mean it should be overlooked.

/strano


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*DING* Winner...

First off, realize that SLP's are kind of revalved, kind of not.... They are all the same and valved for both the SLP springs, and to make sure the ride smoothly more than handle their best. Don't take that as meaning the same as crap, they aren't, but what they are built to do doesn't usually mesh with what most of use want. And if you want to run SLP Level 1 springs, then this isn't a bad opiton. And it's one I do sell.....

Why would you, if you decided on "revalves", be better served by a set of mine? To start with, mine are actually valved for you. Nothing "pre-built". Rates depend on lots of things... springs, bars, tires, use of the car, what the person tells me they want. Then I have a little different way of working. I don't remove any compression damping (SLP does) because that controls unsprung weight. And last I checked not many of us go to smaller wheels, tires, and/or brakes. I also run a different rear shock valving (SLP uses standard untouched HD's). Mine are a bit more @ $500/set, but that has to be.... Mine aren't production parts like the SLP shocks are (all the same means you can run large batches).

Revalves vs. Koni. That's all over the net, even in a thread that was here just a day ago.... Simple about flexibility. Being able to chose your damping/ride/handling.... Having shocks that can work with many springs should you want to change vs. really one or only a few if you have shocks you can't adjust.
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Old 03-03-2006, 11:08 AM
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What is the difference in z28, ws6, and slp springs? does anyone know the specs? My biggest problem is the handling. My 92 formula would handle alot better than this car and I would at least like to get it to the same level.
Old 03-03-2006, 11:14 AM
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Suffice to say the springs are not the problem. The shocks are, followed by the swaybars. Your 3rd gen had better valved shocks (and still not as good as they could have been), and much larger swaybars too.

That's why those two things are 1 and 2 on the list of "to-do" with the 4th gen. Ask anyone who's changed one or both of those while keeping stock springs. They'll tell you. The soft problem is not the springs, just seems that soft would naturally = springs to most folks.
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Old 03-03-2006, 11:17 AM
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so what would you recommend to get it to this level? can it be done in stages? I saw somewere another advantage of konis was the lower spring perch. would this be the way to go, after I save up some money, then get sway bars?
Old 03-03-2006, 11:22 AM
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Happy to answer all questions. But I can't do the job I like to by e-mail. It's not possible to relay all information, and it takes forever as well. I'm pretty famous (or imfamous) for asking folks to call. Tech-line is free to use.

Recommendations are driven by details and understand of how parts work. I don't have details of just what you'd like (or frankly what you understand), and if you don't understand why something is better, you are simply at some parts guy's mercy. I'm a parts guy, but a self-employed, better do it right, one.
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