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Tips or Write ups on Rear Brakes

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Old 05-25-2006, 09:31 AM
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Default Tips or Write ups on Rear Brakes

Me and rear brakes with integrated cable dont get along. my 79 has almost same setup and since they have been serviced they havent worked write since. I wanna avoid that on this car cause I like this car better I looked in the usual place like install univ, and searched these threads but nothing on a step by step. I really dont wanna go to the dealer.
Old 05-25-2006, 09:37 AM
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To just replace pads or what?

I take the caliper & hanger off as a complete assembly, the 2 15mm bolts hold it on to the rear end. If you want the caliper seperate then remove it with the 2 bolts that affix the caliper to the hanger (13mm maybe). Then the rotor pulls right off (don't leave the e-brake on). If you are changing pads don't forget to spray the backs with some Anti squeak. I use a piston depressor tool to push it back in the bore, otherise you can use the old brake pad/piece of wood and a c clamp to push it back, or just a huge pair of channel locks will do the trick also. Put the pads into the caliper and reinstall.
Old 05-25-2006, 09:46 AM
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pads and rotors.
Old 05-25-2006, 09:49 AM
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Yeah. Just that post above will do it. When you get the new rotors clean them off well with brake clean (oftentimes they are coated with junk to keep them from rusting while in storage). and run a piece of sandpaper over them.
Old 05-25-2006, 10:12 AM
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It's really straightforward, but some people do have problems with getting the rear rotors off around the parking brake shoes. I ended up having to bfg mine off and it unseated one of the shoe springs. No big deal but carelessness would have left one of the shoes sitting wrong.

Beyond that it's a standard 20 minute brake job, nothing to worry about.

The only thing Kaliente left out was to pop the lid off the brake fluid reservior and keep an eye on it while pressing the caliper pistons back in - and do so slowly to avoid brake fluid spills. If someone added brake fluid the reservior might need some fluid removed, and that stuff is nasty (corrosive and dangerous to eyes, etc.) so if you spill any clean it up quickly.

It's also a good a time as any to paint the calipers and rotor hat sections.
Old 05-25-2006, 10:24 AM
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you dont have to mess with the e brake bracket or anything?
Old 05-25-2006, 10:44 AM
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Nope. So long as the parking brake shoes aren't totally grooved into the inside drum, it'll pull off fairly easily with no other action than making sure your parking brake isn't set.
Old 05-25-2006, 10:56 AM
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drum on the 2000?
Old 05-25-2006, 10:59 AM
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look on www.installuniversity.com, they have a good pad and rotor swap write up. Its the same one I used when I did my brakes.

Kevin
Old 05-25-2006, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by keliente
To just replace pads or what?

I take the caliper & hanger off as a complete assembly, the 2 15mm bolts hold it on to the rear end. If you want the caliper seperate then remove it with the 2 bolts that affix the caliper to the hanger (13mm maybe). Then the rotor pulls right off (don't leave the e-brake on). If you are changing pads don't forget to spray the backs with some Anti squeak. I use a piston depressor tool to push it back in the bore, otherise you can use the old brake pad/piece of wood and a c clamp to push it back, or just a huge pair of channel locks will do the trick also. Put the pads into the caliper and reinstall.
Couldn't have said it better myself. If they were drums it would be a different story, but this should walk you through it. You can also use a flathead screwdriver to get between the old pad/rotor & depress the piston this way also.




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