fatboy

lets say a stock car running 13.xx what would just a k/member and a-arms net you? .05? just curious as i am clueless

<small>[ December 12, 2002, 03:28 PM: Message edited by: fatboy ]</small>

quickWS6

Yeah, it could. Being that it is about 40 lbs lighter, that is .04 right there. And, since it is on the front, it helps weight transfer, so it could help you get better traction and make up the other .01.

Ian

what companies offer the tubular k-member/a-arm setup, and what are the pros and cons of each?

quickWS6

BMR

has unique motor mounts that reduce weight, probably the strongest and lightest of the 3 that I know of....but no one knows for sure....you can't get it in chrom moly, the a-arms have swaybar provisions

ARE

don't know much about them, a lot like the PA one I think, the a-arms don't have swaybar provisions

PA Racing

you can get them in chrom moly, chrom moly may develop stress cracks from heavy street use...this is the lightest if you use solid motor mounts, same deal on the a-arms as the ARE I think

fatboy

so basically at this level every 10lbs equal .01
hmmm, i need to get my 315lb *** down to 215 <img border="0" alt="[Banging Head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />

Brew02 WS6

iTrader: (2)

While your on the topic what's involved with replacing the stock cross member with a tubular K?
Many welds to drill out?

Gary Z

Homebru, The stock cross-member is bolted in.

12secSS

iTrader: (30)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by quickWS6:
<strong>BMR

has unique motor mounts that reduce weight, probably the strongest and lightest of the 3 that I know of....but no one knows for sure....you can't get it in chrom moly, the a-arms have swaybar provisions

ARE

don't know much about them, a lot like the PA one I think, the a-arms don't have swaybar provisions

PA Racing

you can get them in chrom moly, chrom moly may develop stress cracks from heavy street use...this is the lightest if you use solid motor mounts, same deal on the a-arms as the ARE I think</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">All correct, except the last part. PA Racing's does have sway bar end-link connections (last I checked, and my 3rd gen K-Member has them).

quickWS6

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MRZ28HO:
<strong>All correct, except the last part. PA Racing's does have sway bar end-link connections (last I checked, and my 3rd gen K-Member has them).</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ok, I wasn't sure. Thanks for informing me though.

WEASEL

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by HOMEBRUE:
<strong>While your on the topic what's involved with replacing the stock cross member with a tubular K?
Many welds to drill out?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Basically, per side are 4 motor mount bolts, 3 k-member to frame bolts, 2 a-arm to k-member bolts, 1 steering rack bolt, and a few miscellaneous bolts holding PS and brake lines in place.

The a-arms have 2 shock bolts, a ball joint nut, and swaybar endlink per side if you choose to replace them.

Probably need an alignment afterwards. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Cool28

iTrader: (2)

Its alot easyer when you dont have turbos I tell you what. It was fun doing it though. Just need something to keep the engine in place so you can unbolt it from the k-member and put a jack or something under the k-member cause it is heavy. Has to get alignment and tell them to use locktite on the bolts so they dont move. The guy that did mine said they would move a little after a test drive. So he put locktite on it.