BlackBird55

iTrader: (1)

Yes increasing rear bar dia has the effect of increaseing oversteer.
The 35mm bar i believe is a halo tube bar that slp use to offer.

GM01SS

iTrader: (3)

Poncho:

You need to discuss your set up with Sam Strano........do a search and u will see what I mean!

Gary <img border="0" alt="[driving]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_driving3.gif" />

Dope

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't do it. I put the 21mm bar in first, with my stock 32mm, and the car was very close to oversteering. The rear would always seem to want to come out.

Now I have a solid BMR 32mm up front and it's nicely balanced. 24mm in the box is overkill, I think. Could produce worse handling instead.

Dope

PonchoTA

Getting ready to bolt on the Bilstein Level 1 suspension from SLP on my 98 TA. This kit does not include a rear bar and I understand that a 21mm bar is used on this option for SSs and Firehawks. I found this guy selling 24 mm bars from Gen 3 cars for Gen 4 cars. Would this be too stiff and produce oversteer? Anybody have this combo? Are Gen 3 and Gen 4 bars interchangable? Should I get a 21 mm instead?

BlackBird55

iTrader: (1)

From a 21 to a 24 is about a 13% jump in size. I think that may be too much, it depends on how hard you drive you car, if your not at the limit you prabably won't notice it. I have the Level 1 with the 21mm and the car is very balanced.

PonchoTA

I throw it around turns when I can (without the wife of course) but most of the time I'm in some kind of traffic. I'm still going to have the 16" rims with GSC until I can afford the 17's. Would a 24 mm have an oversteer affect? Also, I keep reading about a 35mm front bar - who has one and is it noticably better? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

PonchoTA

Dope:

You noticed a big difference between solid and hollow 32mm bars???

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I recently switched from a 25mm solid rear bar back to the OEM 19mm bar, and it's night and day. The 25mm was causing more understeer than I had realized, and it was easy to reproduce on the autox course. Car's rear-end always felt like it was on it's tip-toes. I had to take corners much slower on the autox to avoid the rear end breaking loose.

With the stock bar back in place, there is significant more roll in the rear. But it appears to have much better traction around corners now, at least in my designated 'haul a$$' corners on the way to work. I used to be able to power slide the rear end through corners very easily. While it looks nice, it's not the fast way.

I'd suggest sticking with the OEM rear bar for now. See how it feels for awhile before throwing more money at it. The 24+mm rear bar would be great for a drag racer, though.

Re: solid vs. hollow bars - Your pick, really. You can have a ~37mm hollow bar up front which will cost more $$$, or a solid 32mm bar up front and more weight. I've only been told hollow 37mm and solid 32mm are roughly equivalent - don't take that as gospel <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I think Sam runs a solid 35mm front bar with matching Koni SA's, and revalved Bilsteins in the rear. He's very knowledgeable, and you can post questions to him on their site, http://www.stranoparts.com.