1bad2k2ta

iTrader: (3)

Other than weight savings, what are the pros/cons of using tubular k-member and a-arms?

I want my car to corner like it is on rails and hook like it is glued to the road yet still be compliant and keep transmitted road noise to a minimum.

Other handling mods are in signature.

Thanks,

1bad2k2ta

iTrader: (3)

C'mon guys, help a guy out. I am going to be pulling motor and tranny and need to know if I should replace these items while I am at it.

Thanks,

Zeta

Loss of cash for k-member, and front-end alignment.

Gain - negative camber [If lowered, then you may not need more than you have], header clearance, and it looks cool.

I can only guess the aftermarket ones are going to have an equivalent life span of the stock k-member. My personal opinion is that equates to a loss in confidence.

1bad2k2ta

iTrader: (3)

Well, I can only assume from the lack of response on this that either nobody has bought a tubular k-member and a-arms, or they spent a lot of money for them and it didn't do squat for handling, or made their car handle so badly they are ashamed to admit they screwed up.

Which is it? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

DERTY

I just bought mine from ARE with the lower control arms. It weighs in at 30lbs or so. I've not yet seen it, but several people I've talked to indicated that handling was good. I don't think I'll be going road racing with it just yet. I'll post my thoughts on it later this year.

2FAST4U

Pros: Light,weight out of nose better for 1/4, more room for turbos
Cons: Money$$, no brake line mounts on k-member and A-arms--(ziptie),your oil pan is exposed to a hit b/c of the little tube.
All and All I like it

1bad2k2ta

iTrader: (3)

2FAST4U, I already know about the weight savings benefits as far as short bursts down a straightaway is concerned. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

What I need to know is how does it handle in s-curves, banks, bumps, hard braking, off-camber curves, etc.

Thanks,

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

+ ligher than stock
+ chicks dig it
+ more room to work on stuff
+ headers just drop out
+ must do for turbo folks

- pricey
- harder to get alignment right like 3 times longer
- feel bumps more
- noisier road noise

I have PA K frame, and BMR uppers and lowers.

1bad2k2ta

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, PSJ. That is some info that I can use.

How does it handle in corners, hard braking, etc.

So far it looks to me that the cons are outweighing the pros.

I think I will pass if there is no significant handling improvement.

chevyguy3

iTrader: (4)

if anything it will handle better than stock due to less weight on the nose, and less unsprung weight with the A-arms which will allow the suspension to react faster and more precisely.

will it be a difference you can feel? i dont know, my car only goes fast in a straight line these days

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

My car is set up for dragracing, and has only had skinnies up front for a few years so I can't take corners.

Cool28

iTrader: (2)

feel more bumps and hear I though the suspension was wrong or something. Kewl Glad I looked in hear <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> . I seen that the oil pan was now the first thng to hit now that I have that in. I was thinking of putting a plate there but that would defeat the hole reason of it in the first place <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> . Getting back on topic. I really like my k-member. Isnt that hard to install ether on a stone driveway if your not pressed with time. I got pics of the stock one and the bmr one if ya want to see it. Very fun installing it on a turbo without taking them off. Had to remove the a/c and alternator to get to the motor mount bolts. All in all it was the most fun I had working on my car <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

1bad2k2ta

iTrader: (3)

So, it appears that the tubular k-member and a-arms are more for drag racing than handling.

I will be installing a D1SC tuner kit and would like to remove some extra weight to compensate for the added weight of the compressor, bracket, intercoolers, etc.

I don't want any extra noise or loss of durability or handling.

I don't want to be concerned with alignment issues, especially since I will be lowering the car and a lot of alignment places won't touch a car that has been lowered.

Anybody had any problems getting alignment shops to perform an alignment when a tubular k-member is installed?

Thanks

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

My front suspension seems to have more bump steer, ie. follows ruts in the road, cracks etc.

My alignment took 3 times as long.

I'm not sure why you would expect an aftermarket K and A arms to handle better, let me know I am curious...

John35thSS

I just picked up my K frame and arms from ARE. The price was right and it seems like a really well made piece. I'll be putting it on the car next week but won't be driving the car till spring so I can't give an opinion on it. Barry [mad scientist] say's there out there and staying in one piece. As for handling improvement other than the weight savings and additional adjustment how could it really improve handling.

1bad2k2ta

iTrader: (3)

It would not be just the k-member but the a-arms as well that would/should contribute to the handling of the car.

In addition to the tauted weight savings, I would think the k-member would play a roll in the handling through the design of the lower a-arm mounting point. Since the lower a-arms connect to the sway bar, shocks, spindle, and steering knuckle and the tie rod ends connect to the spindle, they are all directly or indirectly affected by the a-arm mounting point.

So, I would think that a properly engineered k-member/lower a-arm assembly could not help but make a difference in the steering geometry.

Am I missing something here?

BadBlackBird

Just Put Upper and lower a arms and k member up front not a real increase in handling it does though lower the front end about one or two inches. It does take weight off which means you go faster. The ride is a little rougher nothing untolerable. The bad things are the poly bushings mean an alignment every 3000 miles and the oil pan is exposed. As for road racing it can only be a benifit and they are adjustable so you can make adjustments to them if needed which also may be benificial in racing applications.

NoOne

I just noticed a tad bit more road noise.

I've road raced mine, albeit only once but it was 5 hard 20 minute sessions without any problems and it helped offset the weight of the iron block.

383ss

iTrader: (14)

I've got BMR a-arms and K memeber sitting in the garage. when they get on, I'll post my opinions.

94bird

I don't think that the k-members that are out there change anything about the front end suspension geometry for our cars. Honestly, they don't appear to need a suspension geometry change. GM got it pretty close to right. The GW upper control arms will be a good choice to allow you more positive caster and negative camber if that's what you're looking for.

Be careful using any of the current k-members for road racing though. You will be a guinea pig. They were all designed more for street and drag strip use, and the loading just isn't the same. I'd want to see PLENTY of track time hours put on a k-member before it's sold as being road course capable. As you can see here, that's just not the market they're currently being used or designed for. The Mustang guys have a few aftermarket k-members that do drastically change their front end suspension geometry and are designed for road racing, but then again you are still bolting it to a <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" /> Mustang.

LG Motorsports is working on a k-member and I'm waiting to see how that one works out before I make a decision.

I'd love to have at least 40 lbs. weight taken off the front of my car, and plan on changing out to a Canton oil pan and putting on LTs at the same time.