What first for handling? Shocks/Springs or Sway Bars?
03-19-2003, 03:48 PM
#1
What first for handling? Shocks/Springs or Sway Bars? I want better handling but I don't want to sacrifice rode comfort. I don't wan't to get beat to death with a really stiff suspension. I want to do the eibach pro kit to lower the car but what will aftermarket shocks do for me? Will they make the ride less rough with the eibachs? I'm also worried that the eibachs will ruin the ride.
I had cut springs with stock shocks for a year that dropped the car two inches and it was great. It rode just like stock except it was lower. It even handled a quite a bit better because of the lower center of gravity. I think stock shocks with cut springs will work fine for me again and then some aftermarket sway bars. That way it will be lower, ride good and corner a whole lot better. I think the sway bars will do more for my handling than the shocks. What do you think? And which sway bars? BMR, Hotchkis or LGM? Thanks.
I had cut springs with stock shocks for a year that dropped the car two inches and it was great. It rode just like stock except it was lower. It even handled a quite a bit better because of the lower center of gravity. I think stock shocks with cut springs will work fine for me again and then some aftermarket sway bars. That way it will be lower, ride good and corner a whole lot better. I think the sway bars will do more for my handling than the shocks. What do you think? And which sway bars? BMR, Hotchkis or LGM? Thanks.
03-19-2003, 06:09 PM
#2
Re: What first for handling? Shocks/Springs or Sway Bars? If you use lowering springs (Eibach, H&R, etc) the car will become "bouncy". The stock shocks are not enough to control the stiffer springs (at least not very well). More aggressive shocks will take away the bouncy feeling but will stiffen the ride up somewhat (depends on the shocks and the valving that they use). Sway bars have less penalty than springs (as far as your shocks are concerned) and may be worth looking at as well (but they won't lower your car). A panhard rod and strut tower brace (and subframe connectors) are my first suspension recommendations and they will not affect your ride very much. I know that some Koni shocks have 2 mounting locations for the front springs (the lower position will lower the car about 1" and you can turn the valving to a soft setting) and you can pull the rubber spacer off of the stock rear springs and lower that end nearly as much. Just some ideas....good luck!
03-19-2003, 06:14 PM
#3
Re: What first for handling? Shocks/Springs or Sway Bars? What FIRST for handling?
An alignment ...
Shoot for ...
+4 caster
-1 Camber
0 toe
This simple and inexpensive change will amaze you at how much of difference it makes on the crispness of turning.
An alignment ...
Shoot for ...
+4 caster
-1 Camber
0 toe
This simple and inexpensive change will amaze you at how much of difference it makes on the crispness of turning.
03-20-2003, 07:53 AM
#4
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Re: What first for handling? Shocks/Springs or Sway Bars? It really depends on how much money you want to spend! For a good price I started with eibach springs and bilstein shocks. That will make a huge differance. As far a good ride > I like it a lot better now vs. the way it was when it was stock. Soon after lowering your car, I'd spend the money to get LCA, and relocation brackets. BMR is the brand that I went with. Its all about the money..... <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" />
03-20-2003, 11:40 AM
#5
Re: What first for handling? Shocks/Springs or Sway Bars? m itchntx is right, the alighnment is really cheap and effective. My local dealership only charges $40 and they will set it up however I want (I go back and sit with the tech while he does it and tell him what I want).
As far as buying parts, THE #1 thing is an adjustable panhard rod. It sets you up for everything to come (lowering, wider tires, etc...). In addition, a stiffer panhard rod will hold the rearend solidly under the body in a turn thus improving handling.
Chris
As far as buying parts, THE #1 thing is an adjustable panhard rod. It sets you up for everything to come (lowering, wider tires, etc...). In addition, a stiffer panhard rod will hold the rearend solidly under the body in a turn thus improving handling.
Chris
03-24-2003, 06:00 PM
#6
Re: What first for handling? Shocks/Springs or Sway Bars? Mitch: What will those alligmnet specs do for me? I am putting on 17x9.5 rims with 285/35 tires in the front and 17x11 rims in the back with 315/35 tires. So, I wont be able to rotate or anything. Will those specs make the tires wear in different spots to the point that I would have to get tires sooner. The rears will be drag radials so I'm sure they will be bad in about 6000 miles or so but I was hoping to keep the front tires for at least 20k.
Do you know anything about bump steer tie rod ends? I was told they would correct the geometry of the suspension between the tie rod end and the spindle.
Do you know anything about bump steer tie rod ends? I was told they would correct the geometry of the suspension between the tie rod end and the spindle.
03-24-2003, 10:08 PM
#7
Re: What first for handling? Shocks/Springs or Sway Bars? I'm running an alignment of:
4.5 deg of castor
1.3 deg negative camber
1/32 inch of total toe out (yes, out)
I have been driving my car for about 6500 miles on this alignment and have 18,800 miles on the front tires and they look quite good (rears are about done though).
The toe setting will assist turn in, the castor setting will increase the negative camber gain while turning the wheels (as the car turns and the body rolls, this helps keep the tires flat on the ground) and the negative camber also helps with keeping the tires foot print flat on the pavement in a turn. You will see slightly increased tire wear on the inside edge of the front tires...but I find it to be a good trade off. good luck!
4.5 deg of castor
1.3 deg negative camber
1/32 inch of total toe out (yes, out)
I have been driving my car for about 6500 miles on this alignment and have 18,800 miles on the front tires and they look quite good (rears are about done though).
The toe setting will assist turn in, the castor setting will increase the negative camber gain while turning the wheels (as the car turns and the body rolls, this helps keep the tires flat on the ground) and the negative camber also helps with keeping the tires foot print flat on the pavement in a turn. You will see slightly increased tire wear on the inside edge of the front tires...but I find it to be a good trade off. good luck!