pimpmaro

I've been having the rotor warping problem that many of you have had. At 21k miles, they are about to be turned for the 3rd time. Has anyone in here gotten aftermarket rotors from GM, possibly with them just paying up to the value of the OEM rotors and you paying the difference?? Any help is appreciated! Thanks guys. <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

just buy some slotted and crossdrilled ones, they are more expensive but for one, the look sweet and for 2 i have heard of people heating them up really bad and they dont get warped like the crap they have in the stock ones

unit213

It's common knowledge that GM rotors suck ***. Mine warped severly by 10,000 miles. The dealer replaced them all the way around under warranty. At 18,000 miles, they were shot again. Do yourself a favor and get some good pads and some Autozone (Aimco) rotors. They are dirt cheap and they work great. I believe they were $69 for a pair of front rotors.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

AHHHHH.....it still comes up <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Ok....rotors don't warp...not like what people are saying. What you are getting is uneven pad distribution (aka: you put a blob of pad in a spot and when the rotor passes through the pad again, it "bounces"). It’s not really the rotors that suck, it’s the drivers overheating the brake system and then holding them on at the light (why more auto guys get "warped rotors" than M6 guys.....hmmm.....connection.... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> ).

Read this:

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

So then the question is, "If rotors don't warp and it’s just how I drive, then why do aftermarket rotors fix the problem?" <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

The answer is that aftermarket rotors have more ability to cool faster. This results in them not having so much heat when you get to that stop light. With less heat, the pads are less likely to "deposit" material on the rotor and thus you don't get uneven surfaces. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

In all truth, all those times you turned your rotors to make them "un-warped"....really, you could have done that with a good set of really heavy/course pads. If you strapped a set on your car now and went out and beaded the brakes (there is a process), when you put your old pads back on (if they had not glazed over), your brakes would be like new. The course pad sands the deposits off the surface of the rotor (same thing that turning the rotor does). <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />

Ok...wow. That was long but every few weeks someone comes along with "warped" rotors. What I’m trying to make people understand is, don’t change the rotors, look at changing your driving (braking) habits. It costs nothing and will probably solve your problems. Give it a try, you have nothing to loose and everything to gain. <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" />

Later <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

Chris

Note: I have almost 35,000 miles on my factory rotors and they get slammed on at least 4 or 5 times a week (those 120 mph down to 45 mph when you think you see a cop....). <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

<small>[ April 07, 2003, 03:28 PM: Message edited by: 2001CamaroGuy ]</small>

unit213

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2001CamaroGuy:
<strong> AHHHHH.....it still comes up <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Ok....rotors don't warp...not like what people are saying. What you are getting is uneven pad distribution (aka: you put a blob of pad in a spot and when the rotor passes through the pad again, it "bounces"). It’s not really the rotors that suck, it’s the drivers overheating the brake system and then holding them on at the light (why more auto guys get "warped rotors" than M6 guys.....hmmm.....connection.... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> ).

</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Very interesting! Good info here. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

I had the same problems you're experiencing....two separate times the front rotors were replaced, and I believe I had them turned another two times...all this and still under warranty. About a year ago, I upgraded to Baer Eradispeed rotors and Hawk Performance Brake pads on all fours. I couldn't be happier with the braking, but it did take some time to get used to the occassional squeeling from the pads. I've put about 25, 000 miles on them and haven't experienced any problems. I got the brake pads and rotors through Speed, Inc. for around $600 at the time( if I remember correctly)

Mike 01WS6

Good info 2001CamaroGuy. You really shed some light on the never ending problem. <img border="0" alt="[USA]" title="" src="graemlins/patriot.gif" />

Ferrell

Good info 2001. However, I've put many miles on numerous cars, including 4 f-bodies. The SS was my first experience w/ "warped rotors". I replaced them w/ the Eradispeeds and have had no problems since. When I need new tires I will be watching to make sure nobody uses an impact on them though.

jst psi

<small>[ April 10, 2003, 06:19 AM: Message edited by: jst psi ]</small>

jst psi

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> BudChevy8

Staging Lane
Member # 10729

posted April 06, 2003 07:07 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
just buy some slotted and crossdrilled ones, they are more expensive but for one, the look sweet and for 2 i have heard of people heating them up really bad and they dont get warped like the crap they have in the stock ones

</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">i agree that a veined/drilled rotor will increase heat disapation, however even if the holes are chamfered they crack when driven in weather (daily) i just call baer for a new set every time anyway, sorry to hyjack the good info here

GREEN GOBLIN

Look at my math problem from earlier...

Simple math....

Stock GM Rotors + Normal braking = Warped Rotors <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />

Rotors replaced/Turned + 5-10,000 miles use =Warped Rotors

<img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> The equation may be different, but the answer remains the same... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />