great421

iTrader: (1)

All -

At this point in time my best 60' times are 2.00 / 2.01, and I've been told that the race is either won or lost in the first 60' so, I'd like to do better.

Launch technique:

In first gear (using the line lock) heat the MT Drag Radials, set at 20 psi, for three seconds. Stage shallow. Rev LT1 to 2200 - 2500 rpm, drop the clutch on the last yellow; spin tires / leave line.

Best 1/4 time 14.41 @ 99 mph

Here's the list of mods done to the drivetrain and rear suspension:

SPEC 3+ clutch
3 point subframe connectors (bolt in)
Stock Torque Arm with E/S front poly bushing
3" Aluminum driveshaft with solid Spicers
10 bolt has: Strange axles, 4.10 gears, and an aluminum stud girdle rear cover
Poly bushings everywhere in the rear (and front) suspension
Coil spring mounted Air Bags (15 psi pass / 5 psi drive)
LCA relocation brackets (bolt in - Set at lowest hole)
MT 16" Drag radials on an extra set of stock T/A wheels (set to 20 psi)


So, my question is:

Am I missing any "must have" suspension device to aid in weight transfer or traction? I'd like to hook up better and reduce my 60' times.

Any sugggestions?
Change my pinion Angle (Currently stock, at 2 degrees I think...)?
Lower my tire pressure?
Add adjustable struts to the front end?

What should I do? Let me know...

MIKE (great421@yahoo.com)

ChaseSS

iTrader: (17)

yes, shocks... get some adjustable shocks, if its purely a drag car Competition engineering makes some really affordable ones and if you want the best QA1's. This will help you actually transfer the weight to the rear and keep it there

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

dont dump your foot off the clutch.
release it swiftly, but smoothly too.

and if you do spin... LET OFF... because if you just keep em spinning, you're not going to get anywhere fast.

swift and smooth..


later, when you have drag struts, and a adjustible TQ arm and start having the adjustments to dial it in harder, THEN you can start dumping it hard on launch.



also, id play with the tire pressure some... a little lower then 20, but id try to keep it at or above 15.



edit:
other then the tire thing, im trying to say what sam is saying in the post below me..
with some pratice, i used to consistantly cut high 1.7s on stock suspension with street tires.. swift but smooth on the clutch... theres no magic at the line that lets the tires grip better.. if you're dumping it like you do on the burnout box, you're still going to do a burnout

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

While it might not be a popular answer, I don't think it's the suspension at this point. It's either driving, or the prep of the start line. Why? Simple, folks can cut 2.0 60's on stock suspension with street tires. I ran a 2.00 in my car on the stock GS-C's, with Koni's not set soft and a 35mm front bar..... Clearly not a "drag race" setup.

I could sell you all the parts in the world, but if the launch pad sucks, or you think you can just magically make the car hook they won't help. And 2.0's with drag radials and LCA brackets in the lowest hole is all you can cut, something is wrong.

94z28L

iTrader: (4)

like these guys said work on that launch and clutch control i'd also check the track before you run and see what the prep is like, our's is dog **** on test and tune nights. however if what drag racing is what you're after, a shorter torque arm like a Spohn, UMI, MADMAN or the similar is what you want