candlelit

iTrader: (21)

ok so I heard that getting control arms, subframe connectors, etc will help a stock rear end out.

my mods are in sig. I have 3:42 gears and I want to have this rear end last as long as it can. I'm getting ready to get a new clutch (maybe LS7 or better). my car will be lowered about 1.25" with 17" x 10.5" wheels in back. what should I look into getting as far as suspension parts?

thanks!

94z28L

iTrader: (4)

ummm just start savin for a new one lol

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Ehh that depends. Just dont hook

94z28L

iTrader: (4)

yeah that works too, just make sure you dont go in to tire shake, its will just shake the 10 bolt to pieces

Ouija

iTrader: (3)

A4s can make a diff last for a long time @ 400rwhp.

M6, yer screwed if you launch it the way you really want to.

HawkFanatic

iTrader: (1)

High Performance Pontiac or GMHTP did an article on how to build a 10 bolt to handle 425rwhp... things like straightening and welding the axle tubes, new axles, girdle...

94z28L

iTrader: (4)

carrier and gears tho still will be pieces of ****

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

My stock diff has performed flawlessly at over 500 rwhp for about 2 years. I do not go to the dragstrip though. Launching from a dig wil put you on borrowed time.

Hennytime

iTrader: (33)

bye that time your half way to a 12 bolt, just save the cash, spend 10 bucks to get towed home on a hard launch and order a new 1 bolt from one of the vendors...

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I would suggest you chip it.

Insert a 2x4 chip under the carpet, about where the throttle pedal hits.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

That sounds like a cheap mans restrictor plate

candlelit

iTrader: (21)

does a 9" rear end refer to the gears itself? and when guys go to the 9", is it just the gears they change out or what?
and can I just take the diff. housing cover off & stick one of these in place of the stock?
because I got it stuck in my head that a 12 bolt is only 2 bolts stiffer than stock, which probably isn't necessary if you're not taking your car to the strip every night
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=moser

CavPat

^ The thread in that link was just talking about the center section. When people talk about getting a 12 bolt or a 9", they mean the whole package, i.e. housing, gears, diff, axles. This will run you over $2,000, but it's worth it if you're launching hard and you don't want to tow your car home after a couple of runs.

94z28L

iTrader: (4)

do a little searching and reading for a little, there's tons of info on this board about the different rear ends

candlelit

iTrader: (21)

thanks for the input guys.

I read somewhere that you can change the stock girdle & studs, and go with an upgraded posi unit to strengthen the 10 bolt. but then I also read where it was costing up to $1200 and $1500 to beef it up. therefore what I need to do is drive my car safe and save money up for a 9" or 12 bolt.

94z28L

iTrader: (4)

exactly

Ouija

iTrader: (3)

Yup.

I blew $200 on gears, $100 on an install kit, $200 for labor, $155 on a cover, and $25 on a stud kit.

That's $680 to beef up the 10 bolt a little bit.

I know a new posi is $300+ and I don't have a clue how much axles, or welding the tubes would cost, but I'm betting $1200 is a good estimate for a total if I did the rest.

candlelit

iTrader: (21)

how is your 10 bolt holding up?

pdanrichey

iTrader: (4)

I know a guy that works for a tuning shop that has the stock 10 bolt...stock gearing, and has done N2O launches on the car for the last 50k+ miles...plus the car has additional mods. I think his car has over 100k miles on it, and he says it holds up quite nicely.
His claim was that the guys who replace the gears inside the 10 bolt are the ones that jack it up. Apparently (according to him), the 3.42 gears are quite strong for what they're worth.

I've run into the same problem now...I'm going turbo...spent the $$ on that and now have limited funds for the rear-end. Hopefully, street tires + granny shifting = lasting 10 bolt.

Ouija

iTrader: (3)

Just fine. I'm "fairly" easy on it though. It's an Auto so I tense it up to about 1200-1400 and launch from there. It doesn't take the shock that a M6 puts on it from a 6k clutch dump.

I also don't do neutral dumps on the thing. My trans should be able to handle a neutral dump, but I don't see any reason to abuse it like that.

Heads and Cam are going in this month, and I'll still be spraying out of the hole, so we will see how it holds up then. It's already handled more than a lot of people claimed/thought it would.

I talked with John @ Fuddle and he says he has hundreds of passes on his 10 bolt (girdle + stud kit) without issues. (Also an auto with spray, but he has H/C already.)