What can i expect my ride to feel like?
03-09-2007, 11:26 AM
#1
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What can i expect my ride to feel like? Well my car is currently going under an extreme upgrade process:
LG Front and rear sway bar
Granetelli Panhard bar
Subframe connectors
Strut tower bar
1.8in drop
new gabriel shocks and struts ( car has 106K on the clock and still uses the stockers and the struts were rusted through so i thought it was time for new ones lol)
What can i expect with these changes, the roads around here are in great condition cause of all the newly built roads so i dont expect to be bottoming out too much.
LG Front and rear sway bar
Granetelli Panhard bar
Subframe connectors
Strut tower bar
1.8in drop
new gabriel shocks and struts ( car has 106K on the clock and still uses the stockers and the struts were rusted through so i thought it was time for new ones lol)
What can i expect with these changes, the roads around here are in great condition cause of all the newly built roads so i dont expect to be bottoming out too much.
03-09-2007, 11:32 AM
#2
Not good.... The shocks are not in anyway capable of controlling those springs.
As for the combination of parts, I think you can do better if you want the car to handle better. A STB isn't worth really anything. SFC's are fine. Ideally you'd want the PHB to have rod-ends at both ends (not sure if your does or not). I sell a UMI version that's $169 that does. You could use a bigger front bar than what comes in that kit, though the rear bar is a fine size when used with a bigger front bar. Frankly when 32 is the front bar, I find it best to stay with a stock 19mm rear. A 21 or 22 rear bar is best teamed with a bigger 35mm type bar.
As for the combination of parts, I think you can do better if you want the car to handle better. A STB isn't worth really anything. SFC's are fine. Ideally you'd want the PHB to have rod-ends at both ends (not sure if your does or not). I sell a UMI version that's $169 that does. You could use a bigger front bar than what comes in that kit, though the rear bar is a fine size when used with a bigger front bar. Frankly when 32 is the front bar, I find it best to stay with a stock 19mm rear. A 21 or 22 rear bar is best teamed with a bigger 35mm type bar.
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03-09-2007, 11:38 AM
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what do you mean not good? Should i not use those springs? I plan on driving on the springs for about two weeks before making a decision on them.
03-09-2007, 11:46 AM
#4
While I'm not a huge fan of the spring rates they use (rears way too stiff), the real issue is the shocks are incapable for controlling *any* lowering spring, let alone ones so stiff. Shocks are spring dampers, and as such you really need to have a shock meant to deal with lowering springs (i.e. have extra damping) to control the higher rate in a shorter amount of travel.
Frankly, and this is the part you aren't going to like.... because of the spring rate you are looking at, the only shocks really right are Koni's, which start @ over $700 a set. Many will tell you Bilstein HD's, but no. Bilstein themselves tells us that HD's are "not suitable" for lowered cars (and they aren't, but would be better than Gabriel's). Unfortuntely it's an easy sell. Revalves take care of the front, but not the rear because of the rates. If you used spring that had a more normal rate in the 150-170 range, Revalves @ $530/set would work.
Shocks are the single most important thing under the car, and your plan is pretty much to run on cheap-o shocks. Frankly a car with a set of good shocks like Revalves or Koni's and a set of either springs or better swaybars will both ride better (less harsh) *AND* handle better than the mis-match of stuff you have listed. Do good shocks cost more? Yes. But you also get much better results with them than with cheap ones and things like a STB. Better to do a few things really well than a lot of thing now so well.
Frankly, and this is the part you aren't going to like.... because of the spring rate you are looking at, the only shocks really right are Koni's, which start @ over $700 a set. Many will tell you Bilstein HD's, but no. Bilstein themselves tells us that HD's are "not suitable" for lowered cars (and they aren't, but would be better than Gabriel's). Unfortuntely it's an easy sell. Revalves take care of the front, but not the rear because of the rates. If you used spring that had a more normal rate in the 150-170 range, Revalves @ $530/set would work.
Shocks are the single most important thing under the car, and your plan is pretty much to run on cheap-o shocks. Frankly a car with a set of good shocks like Revalves or Koni's and a set of either springs or better swaybars will both ride better (less harsh) *AND* handle better than the mis-match of stuff you have listed. Do good shocks cost more? Yes. But you also get much better results with them than with cheap ones and things like a STB. Better to do a few things really well than a lot of thing now so well.
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03-09-2007, 12:02 PM
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Thi car is used for getting to school and work and that's pretty much it, basically a DD. So would you say this appclication would be fine for DD purposes ( i can honestly say i have never gone over 90 in my car and i rarely speed ). The question i'm getting at i guess is "will it work" heh...i have already driven with the swaybars,panhard and strut tower so i know how that feels. I just dont want to be bouncing all over the road like a clown car, cause thats what im worried about.
03-09-2007, 01:07 PM
#7
Anything "will work". I'm telling you those shocks and those springs are in no way compatible, and I don't think you need springs anywhere close to that aggressive (and not sure you need springs at all beyond what seems like a desire to put the car on the ground).
If you are married to those shocks (and I hope you aren't) than the lighter the springs get, the better off you'll be. If you are married to the springs, Koni's are really the only choice. And both things are overkill for a DD that you don't drive that hard, or so it seems.
Honestly, you are one person who might be able to get by wtih a set of normal HD's (though not ideal) on a set of not aggressive rate springs, say Pro-kits.
I'm happy to help you out, but I really can't do much more to help you by e-mail. It's not a good medium, and I can't really explain why and how the parts work together this way.
If you are married to those shocks (and I hope you aren't) than the lighter the springs get, the better off you'll be. If you are married to the springs, Koni's are really the only choice. And both things are overkill for a DD that you don't drive that hard, or so it seems.
Honestly, you are one person who might be able to get by wtih a set of normal HD's (though not ideal) on a set of not aggressive rate springs, say Pro-kits.
I'm happy to help you out, but I really can't do much more to help you by e-mail. It's not a good medium, and I can't really explain why and how the parts work together this way.
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03-09-2007, 05:23 PM
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i understand....wasted christmas money i guess....i DO need new front struts cause the top nut on both of them have rusted SO badly that there is no way ( besides cutting ) to get em off. So that's just a safety hazard. The sway bars and panhard bar were already on the car whenever i bought it, cause the car was for auto-X
03-09-2007, 06:33 PM
#11
Well, you need to decide what you want from the car.... I have no idea what kind of budget you are looking at and so on. If you stay with stock springs, you can put on the cheap shocks and get away with it. You could do a set of Bilstein's which will last longer, and work a bit better. But if you add lowering springs you really need to be looking at shocks that are around $500 and up a set, like Revalved Bilsteins (not SLP, those are different)
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03-11-2007, 12:45 AM
#17
Ever rode on a Harley with a stifftail, that is instead of shocks they have steel bars that keep the swingarm from moving AT ALL???
Okay, so, not THAT intense, but basically you'll be bouncing off of the springs because the shocks will be too weak from damping the jolt.
Does that make sense?
bone jarring at times, oftentimes than not.
Okay, so, not THAT intense, but basically you'll be bouncing off of the springs because the shocks will be too weak from damping the jolt.
Does that make sense?
bone jarring at times, oftentimes than not.
03-11-2007, 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ckyconan2003
answer this...
Is my car going to be bouncing up and down like a clown car all the time?
Is my car going to be bouncing up and down like a clown car all the time?
03-11-2007, 10:03 AM
#19
Can you return the springs? If not, sell them second hand? There's $150-220 depending on which route you go (and how much they are new, I know Eibach's are upwards of $250+ at some places)
Return your Gabriel shocks and there's another what...$100-120 for the fronts and another $30-40 for the rears? Now you're $300 towards good shocks.
Go buy a set of revalves and run your stock springs for now until you can afford springs again. Better yet, go buy the Konis. You won't be sorry. The Konis even have a lower spring perch that you can use to lower the car using factory springs. Then you can remove the isolators in the back and replace them with rubber hose and you just dropped your car anywhere from 1/2" to 1" depending on the condition of your springs. I didn't notice a HUGE difference when I used the lower spring perch on the Konis (more like 3/8-1/2" I think), but other people have noticed drops from that.
Might not look quite as cool to you as slamming it to the ground (we all have our own opinions, I prefer SOME fender gap), but it will still look better than stock, and it will handle and ride far better.
Also, to be honest you could *PROBABLY* drive for a long time yet on your front shocks. Being a TX car, I imagine they can't be worse than my NY/IL car's stock shocks were. They were rusted, but they weren't going anywhere. The rust just wanted to make it impossible for me to remove the shocks.
Another thing to check is your upper spring mounts. They're another $60 each or so, and the insert is another $60+ each. I had to replace one of each on mine.
Return your Gabriel shocks and there's another what...$100-120 for the fronts and another $30-40 for the rears? Now you're $300 towards good shocks.
Go buy a set of revalves and run your stock springs for now until you can afford springs again. Better yet, go buy the Konis. You won't be sorry. The Konis even have a lower spring perch that you can use to lower the car using factory springs. Then you can remove the isolators in the back and replace them with rubber hose and you just dropped your car anywhere from 1/2" to 1" depending on the condition of your springs. I didn't notice a HUGE difference when I used the lower spring perch on the Konis (more like 3/8-1/2" I think), but other people have noticed drops from that.
Might not look quite as cool to you as slamming it to the ground (we all have our own opinions, I prefer SOME fender gap), but it will still look better than stock, and it will handle and ride far better.
Also, to be honest you could *PROBABLY* drive for a long time yet on your front shocks. Being a TX car, I imagine they can't be worse than my NY/IL car's stock shocks were. They were rusted, but they weren't going anywhere. The rust just wanted to make it impossible for me to remove the shocks.
Another thing to check is your upper spring mounts. They're another $60 each or so, and the insert is another $60+ each. I had to replace one of each on mine.
03-11-2007, 02:00 PM
#20
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well, for now i am going to see how i like the ride. It's not hard to put the stockers back on ( the rears at least ).
The whole reason for me needing new struts and springs is because my old spring snapped, and my front two struts are rusted to all hell. So my dad told me to get new ones all the way around, ( $150 ) I bought these springs for 80 bucks off ebay a long time ago and i figured "why not try them out" its total coinsedence i need new springs AND new shocks/struts. Ill see how the ride is and ill let yall know. I need new bump stops in the rear too cause they are all dry rotted.
The whole reason for me needing new struts and springs is because my old spring snapped, and my front two struts are rusted to all hell. So my dad told me to get new ones all the way around, ( $150 ) I bought these springs for 80 bucks off ebay a long time ago and i figured "why not try them out" its total coinsedence i need new springs AND new shocks/struts. Ill see how the ride is and ill let yall know. I need new bump stops in the rear too cause they are all dry rotted.
