The PAT WS6

iTrader: (14)

I put on my drilled and slotted rotors today with new pads and pulled my calipers and brackets off and painted them. along with flushing the system with ate super blue racing fluid.
and the brakes feel as if they are not working right. i push them down and it takes a while to stop. i figured it should stop a little better than this. it takes forever to slow down on the highway if im hauling ***. is this normal ? do i need to break them in more or what?

i put on wagoner thermo quite pads from orileys (orileys best pads)

thanks again.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Have you bedded them in yet?

If the rotors are zinc plated it may take a while to wear it off.

Does the pedal feel spongy like there might be air in the line or is it firm?

styoung

iTrader: (4)

^^^what he said, also the first few times you hit the pedal it should feel spongy but after that it should get hard.

SexyTransAm

iTrader: (6)

the pads and roters need to be broke in before they will feel right

gollum

iTrader: (1)

Did you contaminate your pads with brake fluid?

Most all high performance racing pads will be slower to stop when cold. Does braking improve when you get some heat in them? If not, return the pads for a refund.

Autozone sells a verygood high performance pad called Performance Friction Carbon Metallic.

cookba

iTrader: (10)

bleed the brakes. i bled mine 4 times after i installed new rotors and pads

The PAT WS6

iTrader: (14)

i bled the **** out of them i dont tink there is any air. unless i bled them wrong.

i had a buddy in the car pump them up.
he held the pedal.
and i cracked then closed the bleeder.
did this about 10 times on each wheel.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

How does the pedal feel?

How did you flush the system?

The PAT WS6

iTrader: (14)

i just ran the reg. dot 4 close to dry. them started puttin ate super blue racin fluid and there and bleed all 4 till i seen notihn but solid blue comin out.
did this about 10 times on each side.

jond99

iTrader: (1)

I think you bled them fine, the coating has to just wear off the rotor, take it on a nice long haul around and once the coating wears off, you'll be fine.

57 Bel-air Vette

It takes some time for that zinc coating to wear off.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Did the reservoir run dry? If so, you may have gotten air into the ABS block. The only good way to bleed that part is to have the dealersip hook up a computer to cycle the ABS system and let the air pass through it.

If you would answer my question about how the pedal feels I could probably tell you whether it was air in the lines or something else. If the pedal feels good and firm then they brakes probably need to be bedded in. Do you go through a specific bedding in procedure or did you just start driving the car?

1meantransam

iTrader: (8)

i did mine and they felt spongy the whole day and then i braught it to the track by the end of the night they worked like a charm

ramairracer

iTrader: (13)

like the guy said if you bled them and your resivour ran dry you let air into the abs block a gm tech 2 scan tool will do an automated bleed. also if you spilt any fluid on the rotor or put dirty fingerprints on the rotor then they will take a little longer to grab and they usaully start to pulsate, to properly set up brakes you should turn on the car and pump them then drive away, and slow down under 20 mph, then do that like five times, then do them at like 60-0 just not slamming on them, and that should properly brake them in.
also did you remove and lube both guide pins on each side? in f bodies they like to seize up and not grab, a little lube will make them feel real tight they will also stop a pull. but what do i know, i just work at a chevy sealership in service

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

Did you bleed them in this order,

Passenger rear
Driver rear
Passenger front
Driver front

The PAT WS6

iTrader: (14)

no i didnt, why does it matter.
but sometimes the car works good in braking some i think i just need to break it in more. i will try and bleed again but i do not belive i have air in the system.

the pedal does not feel spongy, it just takes an inch or 2 till of pushin the pedal till somethin happens

The PAT WS6

iTrader: (14)

wat dealership in dfw u work at? i do thik i ran the res. dry.

kaos_

iTrader: (12)

i installed new front calipers, rotors, and breakpads. me and a buddy bled the system and pumped the brakes a few times before testing it out on the road. the brakes seemed like they weren't catching until i was pressed about half way down the pedal. then we did some dead stop tests and the car stopped QUICK. so i'm not too sure if they just need to be broken in more or what but the car sure does stop alright!

i think we're having the same problem. but i don't ever remember the f-body having extremely responsive breaks, even when mine were new. it's always felt a bit spungy. or is that just me?

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

The way I posted makes sure you don't have air in the system.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Not sure I understand, but did you bleed until the reservoir went empty, and then add super blue?

What you want to do is siphon out as much old brake fluid out of the res first, then add new fluid, and then begin the bleeding procedure while making sure the res gets filled when it gets low.